This is probably a very stupid question, but here I go anyway. From an ergonomic but also spectators perspective, how high should a close up table be in relation to your hands? The magician is standing behind the table . . .

Thanks

Andy

Hey Andy:

It is up to you, although bear in mind if audience members are going to be seated at the table while you are performing, standard table height is around 30". Most performers seem to adjust stand-up tables to a comfortable bar height but don't adjust when performing for seated individuals which causes objects on the table surface to "disappear" from sight.

Generally, if performing standing, in a relaxed position with arms at your sides, you want your hands to drop below table height. From a "picture" stand-point, you should consider your height. If you are going to spend a lot of time hunched over a low table, you might consider raising the table. Ultimately it depends on venue, nature of performance and location of audience.

The more magic is done in the air and framed around your face, the more people will connect *you* with the magic.

Thanks a lot for the great answer.

Andy

Here's the lesson I received years ago from an old time pro. Stand straight at your table and place your palms flat on the table top without bending or slouching. This is the PERFECT height...this way you won't be bending over when performing. Hope this helps.

All the best,

John

Great advice John, thanks!

Wishing you and your family a very Happuy and healthy New Year.

Jonathan

For a rough check, your kitchen counter tops are typically 36" from the floor, and your bathroom vanity tops are typically 30" - 32" from the floor.

TW

In preparation of putting together my new Multiplying Bottle routine, after tryintg out different proto-type table heights, I find that 37.5" from floor to table's top suits me well (height of the Lefler table).

The problem is finding legs that are 35 iches long (nees to be 35" since I will need to allow for the height of the 2 inch rolling wheels and .5" to allow for the thickness of the plywood table top).

Will two separate oak or maple curtain rods, each 2" diameter cut up into four 35" pieces work for the legs?

Then, so that I can mount and unmount them from the table top for easy set up and transport, will I need to insert a threaded (male) screw at the top of each leg?

I figure that 1/2" plywood table top is not thick enough to moount the legs onto (especially if I need them to be detachable).

So will I also have to affix square blocks (2" x 2" x 2") into each of table top's corners (bottom side), then insert a female thread to receive the threaded screw from the top of each leg?

If I do this block in eahc corner system, I will need to remeber to subtract the 2" from each of my legs to make each leg 33" (since 33 + 2" = 35 inches total).

Or is a different mounting system available and recommended for each of the legs?

Please advise, as I am very far from being a craftsman and rarely work with wood.

Many thanks.

Jonathan

PS: Dear Thomas, you made me a beautiful Black Ebony wand a few years back, with tiny in-laid oyster shells for the wnad tip's design --to catch the light. It's beautiful and continues to serve em well, inpsiring my (the performer) and my spectators. Many thanks!!

If you have a restaurant supply store near you, you could buy a waiter's tray stand. I forget the height, but believe it's around 37 inches - it's a good height if the spectators are standing up.

Then, if you have a picture framing store near you, you could have a frame made to whatever dimensions you would like - attach green felt to the board that comes with the frame, and you are in business.

Picture framing store is definitely the way to go for us less carpentry inclined magicians. The store will put a nice fram/lip around the entire perimeter of the table with a professional/neat "look".

Best regards.

Jonathan

I build mine to hit about 2" above my wrist that's about 36" for me. Owln_1