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edshern Special user 957 Posts |
"Transform the familiar (sometimes cheap plastic) props into wonderful original artifacts" Tales of Enchantment by
Walt Anthony That's the ticket, create an original artifact from plastic So, my first effort was to grind this underfoot on concrete that had some grey paint on it (see photo below). Nicely scratched, but hardly an artifact, yet! My second effort involved a butane lighter, which I was hoping would scorch the plastic, but all it did was melt the plastic. Any ideas would be appreciated. |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
I'd say the first thing to do would be to tone down that bright red. Those bright colors were not common long ago.
Then, read up on weathering techniques, as used by modelers. Google search will turn up lots of info. Likely, you want to create the impression that the prop is NOT plastic, but some other material. Define that, and then strive to duplicate the effects of weathering and aging on that material. Metal and wood are the usual suspects for apparatus. Here is a product that I used to use when I modeled railroads. It is quite realistic. http://www.rustall.com/
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Cardstuntman New user 97 Posts |
I played around with this a few months ago. Not exactly vintage but if you learn different brush techniques you can have a variety of effects.
http://steampunkmagic.blogspot.com/ I have several ideas for taking this to the next level just have not had time to do it. |
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edshern Special user 957 Posts |
Very cool Cardstuntman.
Is that a painted on effect? Can us mere mortals replicate it? |
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edshern Special user 957 Posts |
Mike- Thanks, Have already ordered the 4 bottle product directly from rustall.com
Not available in my local hobby stores. $26 shipped if anyone is interested. |
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ClintonMagus Inner circle Southwestern Southeast 3997 Posts |
Many years ago I made slick Bristol board look like wood by using liquid shoe dye thinned with denatured alcohol. I don't see why it wouldn't work with plastic. First, paint the plastic with a more neutral color, such as a light tan or brown. I would probably make this a gloss or semigloss coat. You can tone it down later. I WOULD ALSO EXPERIMENT ON SCRAP MATERIAL FIRST!
Next, thin a small amount of shoe dye with denatured alcohol (I would start with a 50:50 mixture and work up or down from there). I used various colors of brown, cordovan, and black, at various times, mixing them to get the colors I wanted. What you want to do is simulate wood grain with the thinned show dye. Starting with a color that is not too far from your base coat in color, dip a fairly wide artist's brush (maybe 1/2" or 3/4") into the thinned mixture. Drain most of the color off into a paper towel to keep from laying down a thick coat onto the base coat. Finally, using a technique that resembles dry brushing, pick a direction and drag the brush lightly lengthwise along the material. What should happen is the brush should leave thin lines that beging to look like wood grain. DO NOT brush repeatedly over the same area until the first application has a chance to dry. After the material is covered with the thin lines, do the same thing using a slightly different color. You can mix the dyes to get exactly the effect you want. Build up the effect gradually. It's impossible to undo too heavy a coat on most material without starting over.
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
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Cardstuntman New user 97 Posts |
Paint black 1st then get a metal color and dry brush / cross hatch the strokes. very min. amount of metal colored paint on the brush. Go one way then the other, then straight across, up and down and then pity pat a bit in any area you want to take a hit.
You need to dremel it all 1st... to stress it out. only hit high impact areas....less is more. if you look at the bottom of the dragon drawer box or the coin box sets you can see some of the scarring. I use the diamond tip rotor saw attachment on the end and hit it fast and hard dragging the blade across areas I want to scrtach and let it nick the edges to give it wear. Use the Krylon Fusion for plastics black satin for the base coat. go to craft shop and get some liquid leaf...gold, silver, copper for the dry brush. Mist a Clear Coat Fusion satin by Krylon on everything. I might also add that the penetration frames are tough to mask the glass on. If you don't want the glass to get scratched or paint on it...you need to figure out how to bust the frame open and work on the pieces and then glue it back together. Then it will look clean and professional. |
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curtgunz Special user Only 99% of users have more than 784 Posts |
Warhammer 40K is a hobby of miniature sci-fi soldiers painting and war gaming.
Lots of great resources for painting. Here is a video that makes a good rust look. There are so many videos on this and lots of good tutorial web sites. Be sure to post a picture when you finish so we can see your great work.
Click for Free Resources for Performers
YouTube channel specifically for family & kids show magicians. Click -- You need to subscribe. |
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George Ledo Magic Café Columnist SF Bay Area 3042 Posts |
That's our departed buddy Burt, aka The Great Burtini, doing his famous Cups and Mice routine
www.georgefledo.net Latest column: "Sorry about the photos in my posts here" |
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edshern Special user 957 Posts |
George, Thanks for finding that piece. Great price, and great information, & great writing.
Unfortunately, It's kind of like asking someone what time it is, and they tell you how to build a watch Truly no disrespect intended, but I was just looking to age/rust/burn/distress a Penetration Window. Add to that my lack of artistic skills. Note my first posts effort, simply grind on concrete under foot. Second effort tried to put some burn marks on it & I melted the *** thing. DOH! Not giving up my day job. Any simpler ideas? |
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magicjohn2278 Special user Isle of Man UK 544 Posts |
Quote:
Any simpler ideas? Well, possibly not simpler, but different! Some years ago I "improved" my Tenyo's Zig Zag Cig by covering it in very thin wood veneer, and then varnishing it. I found that stuff called "microwood" was available, almost paper-thin sheets of self-adhesive wood veneer, just peel off the backing, stick it on and trim to size. However for your prop, I think that doing the inside edges of the frame would turn out to be very difficult! I was going to post this earlier, but decided that the steampunk painted finish suggested would be easier and possibly give a better job! |
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ClintonMagus Inner circle Southwestern Southeast 3997 Posts |
You also might be able to rub some acetone on the frame to get a "burned" look without the melting. Be very gentle, though, and stay away from the clear part...
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
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edshern Special user 957 Posts |
Not sure why we can't distress the clear part too?
Seems as if it actually should be distressed as well. Thoughts? Acetone will react with plastic? Would the acetone type nail polish remover work? Interesting idea on the veneer. Would need all flat surfaces to work with though. |
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edshern Special user 957 Posts |
Maybe the veneer idea on Pillars of Thor would give it a new life?
Hey, then let's take a blowtorch to the veneer & char it up a bit |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Quote:
On 2013-04-02 13:47, edshern wrote: I suppose it's a good thing George didn't spend his time writing that essay just to answer the original question here. But, it's a shame that the bigger part of his message might have been missed. Quote:
Learn the processes that bring a piece through time to what it is today, and you’ll better understand how to fake that look. Lack of artistic skills has a remedy because it involves the craftsman’s experience. Repeated efforts with focus on the concept of antiquing and weathering generally brings about increasingly better results. That is not more evident than it is here, because I’d bet your education in such things has made a quantum leap in the past few days, just because of the information provided by those "watchmakers".
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Cardstuntman New user 97 Posts |
I found that I didn't like the glass all scratched up. That cheap clear plastic will get stressed all by itself. you can get plenty of stress just working on one with out touching the glass. You do not want to get paint on it. It just smacks that something has been painted and it's ugly (imo). It's tough to mask off the glass and still not screw it up. I made some to sell though and if your making it for yourself you only need to please yourself. What I had in mind for one was to take the steampunk concept a bit further with vacuum tubes and some LEDs under them mounted on the side.
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Franky33 New user 53 Posts |
Quote:
On 2013-04-01 13:50, Cardstuntman wrote: Wow, that is fantastic work, I really like the Balls and the Ball Vase. Thanks for sharing. |
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edshern Special user 957 Posts |
Another Try;
[IMG]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y24/edshern/photo24_zpsef5365cd.jpg[IMG] |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Nice work!
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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edshern Special user 957 Posts |
Why didn't the picture show up.
Did I format it wrong? |
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