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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » The workshop » » The Ribbon Clock Time Machine (7 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

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Seth speaks
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How odd... I almost have one more than
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Holy wow... this is impressive beyond words!! Wonderful design, and the creativity involved is just staggering. I think you have found a new income source, sir—if you wish to go in that direction! Congratulations on this achievement. You are a craftsman I will certainly be following...
DaleTrueman
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Quote:

Finally, the veener thing again. I believe it would be difficult to put veneer on the smallest curves (like on the base), but if the veneer is thin enough, it might work. It would most likely take quite a bit of time to do, so would add a lot to the cost. Using wood-infused plastic is of course a lot easier, but that does not give any grain, of course.


Possibly, though veneer can be almost paper thin. Stuff I have used has been about the thickness of the sort of cardboard they make greeting cards from and quite flexible.

The top of this is a veneer glued to curved plywood. It was very thin veneer. It could be rolled up into a loose tube (carefully as it's also quite brittle). With care I think it could be applied to your awesome clock.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO1......WxSMa5Gf
gimpy2
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Okay a little on veneer. I veneer something about every day or two. I have done just about all the types of veneer out there at one time or another. Veneers come in several ways and use different methods to apply.
Raw veneer is just very thin wood sheets. Raw veneer is cheap but very hard to work with without a vacume sestem.
Another option is backed veneer. Woodbacked veneer is not very flexable and the thickest of the backed veneers. It is hard to cut cleanly with a knife so its better for flat square projects like a table top. Several glue options.

I use paper backed veneers. Its thin wood or composites with a factory applied paper backing. This stuff is very easy to work with. It comes in 10 mil and 20 mil thickness. 10 mil is 1/64" thick so its very flexable.Several glue choices here. For small projects I like gel contact cement. I have heard of folks having problems with getting bubbles or a poor bond with contact cement but I rarely run in to this. Proper temp and humidity and a good seal coat prevents problems. A great thing about thin paper back is how easy it cuts. Cut the veneer with sissors a bit bigger than you need stick it on and trim off the exess with a utility knife. once all your pieces are in place you can sand starting with 220 grit for perfect cornners.
As mentioned above you would need to use water base contact cement on something like the clock.Regular contact cement will melt plastic. I have put wood veneer on styrofoam and had no problems with the water based. The detail on the clock wont work very good with veneer. The curves are no problem but the recess ribbon detail would have to be flat or filled in or you will get a big bubble. The trim would have to be painted or made of wood.
A good option to get a wood look is to faux paint a wood patern directly on the piece but that's a whole other topic.
Angelo Carbone
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What an amazing trick! Kudos to you sir!
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Wizard of Oz
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On Apr 18, 2018, Angelo Carbone wrote:
What an amazing trick! Kudos to you sir!


Well mroek, there you have it. Praise from one of the most innovative magic minds of our time in my opinion. Not bad.
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
mroek
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I am blown away by all the nice comments! Thanks, everyone!
DaleTrueman
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Quote:
On Apr 18, 2018, gimpy2 wrote:
Okay a little on veneer. I veneer something about every day or two. I have done just about all the types of veneer out there at one time or another. Veneers come in several ways and use different methods to apply.
Raw veneer is just very thin wood sheets. Raw veneer is cheap but very hard to work with without a vacume sestem.
Another option is backed veneer. Woodbacked veneer is not very flexable and the thickest of the backed veneers. It is hard to cut cleanly with a knife so its better for flat square projects like a table top. Several glue options.

I use paper backed veneers. Its thin wood or composites with a factory applied paper backing. This stuff is very easy to work with. It comes in 10 mil and 20 mil thickness. 10 mil is 1/64" thick so its very flexable.Several glue choices here. For small projects I like gel contact cement. I have heard of folks having problems with getting bubbles or a poor bond with contact cement but I rarely run in to this. Proper temp and humidity and a good seal coat prevents problems. A great thing about thin paper back is how easy it cuts. Cut the veneer with sissors a bit bigger than you need stick it on and trim off the exess with a utility knife. once all your pieces are in place you can sand starting with 220 grit for perfect cornners.
As mentioned above you would need to use water base contact cement on something like the clock.Regular contact cement will melt plastic. I have put wood veneer on styrofoam and had no problems with the water based. The detail on the clock wont work very good with veneer. The curves are no problem but the recess ribbon detail would have to be flat or filled in or you will get a big bubble. The trim would have to be painted or made of wood.
A good option to get a wood look is to faux paint a wood patern directly on the piece but that's a whole other topic.
Sounds great and I don't want to be picky but 1/64 of an inch is about .4 mil. 10 mil is quite thick, almost a third of an inch.
Vater Araignee
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Quote:
On Apr 21, 2018, DaleTrueman wrote:
Sounds great and I don't want to be picky but 1/64 of an inch is about .4 mil. 10 mil is quite thick, almost a third of an inch.


I don't want to be picky... well, yes, yes I do! A mil is not the same as a mm.
A mil is 0.001 inch in thickness so 1/64 is 0.015625" and 10 mil is 0.01" or so close to 1/64 that for practical home reasons it doesn't matter.
Now with .4 mil you are talking ten thousandths of an inch.
By the way, a third of an inch would be 330 mil or 8.382 mm if a gave a customer something 0.0637" to thick, I would get fired. Best to call 1/3" 8.5mm because 4 thou tolerance is forgivable unless you are working something like aerospace.
Actually now that I think about it, I don't know what measuring system you are confusing because you said 10 was almost 1/3" implying that it is < where as you surely would have used something to indicate > if you thought it was so, or something like approximately if you weren't sure.
"Good enough never is." - Vater Araignee
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