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Topic: Plans for a busking table?
Message: Posted by: NurseRob (Sep 29, 2008 09:44PM)
Anyone have any plans, specs, materials for building a large sized busking table top for C&B? My 84 yr old father in law has offered to build one for me, a fine wood worker he is..It would be something I would treasure, coming from such a great old gentleman! just need to tell him what I want...and he will make it so.. :)
Message: Posted by: Father Photius (Sep 29, 2008 09:56PM)
There were a few plans being shown around in either the busking forum and or the construction forum, Try a search. I recall seeing one good busking table that I thought would be great for C&B a while back. Wasn't plans but some good picts as I recall, sure the poster could put you onto the plans
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Sep 29, 2008 11:21PM)
Send me an e-mail. I will send you the plans for the one I used for many years.
Message: Posted by: NurseRob (Sep 30, 2008 12:08AM)
Email sent Bill thanks.
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Sep 30, 2008 12:45AM)
Information sent. See how this looks to you. If you have questions, e-mail them to me.
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Sep 30, 2008 02:31AM)
Sent a better file. This one should be legible.
Message: Posted by: NurseRob (Sep 30, 2008 09:00PM)
Got it, thanks. That is a very nice table! I'll be chatting with you more for sure, once my dad gets a chance to look it over.
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Sep 30, 2008 10:16PM)
Once you get it built, if I'm up in Dallas, I can show you what I meant about those loads. I think you understand the idea. It's a lot cleaner looking than what you were thinking about.
Message: Posted by: MickeyPainless (Sep 30, 2008 10:46PM)
Glad to hear you hooked NoVaCain up Bill! I had PM'd him suggesting he offer money, yard work or his first born in trade for a peek at those plans you sent me last year! I have since built 2 based on your plans and currently have one on the drawing board with some mods and alterations to your design! Good stuff!

Mick
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Sep 30, 2008 11:03PM)
Thanks. It's a simple design, but it is very easy to build and also very stable.
Message: Posted by: JamesTong (Oct 1, 2008 12:55AM)
Bill, I just sent you an email for the plans too. Thanks!
Message: Posted by: JamesTong (Oct 1, 2008 01:24PM)
Thanks, Bill, received the plans and they are great. Really appreciate it.
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Oct 1, 2008 01:36PM)
Thanks for the kind words. All I can say about it is that I built it in 1994 to use at Cavalier Dayes of Texas. I used it for six years at various Renaissance Festivals and at other shows, as well. I still use it when I practice C&B.
Message: Posted by: Turk (Oct 1, 2008 03:06PM)
Bill, I too would be interested and grateful if you found it in your heart to send me a set of plans for the table. With serious dedication I'm just starting out learning cups and balls and I'm really looking for a workable inexpensive solution. My curent plans were to buy a music synthesizer stand (for around $20.00) and go to Home Depot and get a piece of pre-cut 1/2" plywood (approx 2' X 3') glue on a suitable cheap covering (maybe a piece of the woven outdoor carpet) and then get some picture fram molding to surround the plywood edges. Your plans for an even easier and less expensive alternative have really gotten me interested.

So, if you are offering the plans to Café members, I would be very interested in receiving a set.

Best,

Mike
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Oct 1, 2008 03:46PM)
Send an e-mail to me requesting the plans.
Message: Posted by: Turk (Oct 1, 2008 04:53PM)
Will do, Bill. thanks a lot.

Mike
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Oct 1, 2008 05:52PM)
I accidentally deleted a couple of requests. If you have requested the plans, please re-send your e-mail.
Message: Posted by: Turk (Oct 1, 2008 10:42PM)
Thanks for the plans, Bill. Very easy to read and understand. I'll be taking a printout of them with me to Home Depot very shortly. Again, thanks for taking the time to send me the email.

Best regards,

Mike
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Oct 2, 2008 12:03AM)
Glad to be of help. I'm going to put a few things like this on the museum site as free downloads.
Message: Posted by: rannie (Oct 2, 2008 12:43AM)
Bill,

Sorry to be a bug but I was wondering if you could send me a plan as well. As you know I love anything wood....anything cups and balls. Thanks in advance. I wanted to give you my email thru your PM box but I can't seem to access it.

Mabuhay from Manila,

Rannie
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Oct 2, 2008 01:33AM)
On their way!
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Oct 2, 2008 01:14PM)
There is now a link to these plans on the museum web site. Check the main page or the gateway page for a link to the downloads.
Message: Posted by: rannie (Oct 2, 2008 01:41PM)
Thanks a mil Bill!
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Oct 2, 2008 01:42PM)
You are most welcome!

Here is a direct link:

http://69.89.31.132/~cupsandb/museum/downloads.htm
Message: Posted by: NurseRob (Oct 3, 2008 07:30AM)
To glue or not to glue?

I have a 1/2" birch ply table top with a auto headliner glued to the surface for an under padding. Do I also glue the pooltable felt down over it when I stretch it over the surface?

thanks
Message: Posted by: remote guy (Oct 3, 2008 07:44AM)
Just stretch and staple. No glue
Message: Posted by: JamesTong (Oct 3, 2008 08:26AM)
[quote]
On 2008-10-03 08:44, remote guy wrote:
Just stretch and staple. No glue
[/quote]

Thanks for this tip, remote guy. This certainly saves a lot of gluing work.
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Oct 3, 2008 11:19AM)
I wouldn't use regular felt. Use billiard cloth, velvet or velour. Billiard cloth, which is presumably what you mean by pooltable felt, is woven. Regular felt isn't. You can tear regular felt apart when you stretch it.

If you are going to do the chop cup on this, put in an extra layer of headliner.

Cut the cloth to give you a 3 inch foldover. Place the cloth on your ironing board, right side down, fold over 1 inch and iron. If you are using nylon or polyester velvet or triacetate velour, use low heat.

Place the ironed cloth down on your working surface. Place the padded board on the cloth, with the padding downward. Start at one of the long edges, bring the cloth over at the center of the edge, and place one staple into the cloth, making sure you go through the double layer. Then do exactly the same thing on the other edge. If it all looks right, then finish off the first edge, applying gentle stretching as you staple. Staple about every 4 - 6 inches. Stop before you finish the corners.

Then do the same on the short edges.

Don't overstretch the material. It needs some give to it.

After stapling, if you are satisfied with the way it looks, then use a tack hammer to gently drive any staples that aren't all the way in home.

Be sure to spray Scotchgard® on the cloth before you do this, and let it dry.
Message: Posted by: NurseRob (Oct 3, 2008 10:18PM)
Thanks again Bill, I hadn't thought about the scotchguard, that is a keen idea. now after the cloth is tacked down on the bottom side, I can then cover it with another firm backing to cover the staples and bare bottom side as well?
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Oct 3, 2008 11:10PM)
You can if you wish. I took a different approach to mine. My pad is actually separate from the top. I put a 1/2 inch foam pad on top of a piece of heavy show card that was cut 1/4" smaller each way than the inside of the top after I had installed the outer rails. I then put the velvet over that. I glued the velvet at the back of the cardboard pad. I can rip that out and put a new one in in about an hour or so.

Once you really get into the plans you will see how it works.
Message: Posted by: Terry Holley (Oct 4, 2008 08:17AM)
Very nice looking table. I like the spindle legs. Thanks for the plans, Bill.

Terry
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Oct 4, 2008 01:16PM)
You are most welcome. These spindle legs have become a bit difficult to get lately. It seems that more of the hardwoods are going into different parts for houses and four foot high bannisters are not the rage any longer.
Message: Posted by: Corbett (Oct 6, 2008 11:51AM)
Check out Michael Ammar's website. He has a great set of plans for a table, and the download is only $5. I've made this table myself from his plans, and couldn't be happier. Looks fantastic, easy to store and travel, and very inexpensive to make.
Message: Posted by: Nate Green (Aug 16, 2010 08:24AM)
Would one layer of auto headliner that is adheared with double stick tape do the job for a busking tabletop? Any pro or cons to this approch? Thank you.
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Aug 16, 2010 11:27AM)
Depending on the brand and type of tape, double stick tape may or may not work in hot weather. The reason is that some adhesives tend to loosen in the heat.

Automobile headliner also has a foam backing. Some adhesives stick to it, some don't. If you use carpet tape, it may work. You will also need some kind of edging, because of the way automobile headliner is made.

The advantage of using the show card with the padding and felt on it is that you can replace the entire pad in a matter of minutes if you have the materials at hand. Just pull up the pad, clean the surface of the table top and make a new padded piece to go in.
Message: Posted by: Nate Green (Aug 17, 2010 08:59AM)
Bill,
Thank you for your response and for making your table plans available. I am going to give it a try. However, what is show card?
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Aug 17, 2010 11:00AM)
Show card is heavy cardboard, about 1/8" thick, that sign painters use to make cardboard signs. Just go to an art supply store and tell them that you need some thick cardboard to serve as the base for a thin cushion. In Illinois, Dick Blick Art Supply would be a likely source. Usually you can get this in boards that are 20 inches by 30 inches.

I just went on line and found some Crescent #110 cold press illustration board that is 2.4 mm thick. This comes in a 20 X 30 inch size and a 30 x 40 inch size. It's not cheap, but it should be more than adequate for the purpose.

Poster board is just too thin.
Message: Posted by: tabman (Aug 17, 2010 11:02AM)
FYI: Drawings and instructions for making several of the Tabman Tables are in the book, [i]Tabman Magic[/i] including the Café Table and a drawing for the busking table that Scotty York and Bob Sheets were brainstorming based on an article from [i]Mother Earth News.[/i]

Currently the book is "sold out" at my website but the book is available at Amazon and as an ebook from Lybrary.com and H&R still has a few autographed copies. I'm having more printed but it might be a few weeks B4 I have copies. I'm hoping to have them for a book signing at Bob Sanders Magicians Flea Mkt in September on the 11th. http://MagicValleyMagic.com
Message: Posted by: cupsandballsmagic (Aug 17, 2010 11:05AM)
Tabby's book is a great read too, the table info is an added bonus!
Message: Posted by: Dale Houck (Aug 17, 2010 12:27PM)
I agree, the TABMAN MAGIC book is great. I just pulled it out this morning to re-read the section on tables since it looks like I'll be building a couple. There's a lot of very interesting people on the Café!
Message: Posted by: tabman (Aug 17, 2010 09:32PM)
Thank you both for the good words, I got a couple of orders for the book today probably due to yall's endorsement, thanks for the help. Ive got some books on order from the publisher so I called them. They said books should be here in a few days.
Message: Posted by: afinemesh (Aug 18, 2010 07:39PM)
Bill,

Forgive me if I missed it, but what is the finished height of the table?

Thanks
Jorey
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Aug 18, 2010 10:02PM)
It's not in the plans. The height of my table is .4635 fathoms.

That's the nautical equivalent of 0.004214 furlongs.

Seriously, it is 33 3/8" high. The height should be adjusted so that the edge of your pouch runs along the center line of the back edge of the table.
Message: Posted by: afinemesh (Aug 18, 2010 11:19PM)
Bill,

Could one build the table higher and secure their pouch to the workers side edge of the table? 39 inches works really good for me.

Just checking

Jorey
Message: Posted by: jazzy snazzy (Aug 19, 2010 12:06AM)
Jorey. That's how mine works (height: 36.5").
Message: Posted by: afinemesh (Aug 19, 2010 12:19AM)
Thanks, Jazzy snazzy!
Message: Posted by: Bill Palmer (Aug 19, 2010 02:09AM)
[quote]
On 2010-08-19 00:19, afinemesh wrote:
Bill,

Could one build the table higher and secure their pouch to the workers side edge of the table? 39 inches works really good for me.

Just checking

Jorey
[/quote]

Obviously, you haven't read the plans. You can make it any height you want. It all depends on what you need.

I hate to be grumpy, but before you ask silly questions, you should read the plans. The answers are in there.

Get the plans, if you don't have them. They are FREE.
Message: Posted by: gadfly3d (Aug 19, 2010 10:09AM)
For the table I built I used "speed cloth" which is the material that casino's use for poker and blackjack tables and it works great.

Gil Scott