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Topic: Final coat?
Message: Posted by: brianmayo (Aug 4, 2003 11:12PM)
I just repainted my Chalet Twister. What should i put on it once its all together to protect it best? I'd really rather it not be shiny.

Also, speaking of 'shiny,' I used a blue spray paint that ended up being somewhat shiny in parts. Any way to 'dull' it without affecting the color?
Message: Posted by: Peter Loughran (Aug 5, 2003 05:08AM)
Why don't you want it shinny? You don't like the gloss look. What kind of spray paint did you use?

I would sand it down and repaint it with a flat paint if you don't want the shine.

With our illusions that we build, we put on 4 coats of paint, sanding in between coats, and use an automotive paint which pretty much protects itself. Plus with 4 coats on our props, a scratch will not break through the surface, therefore going unnoticed.

Other than that I would use an ATA case if you really want to protect the illusion.

Painting is a very important step and it should be done right, don't cheap out and take your time to do it right.

When spraying a prop, a gun should be used as apposed to a can.

However even when spray bombing something, there is a right way and a wrong way. By your description I can already tell that you did it the wrong the way. Your stokes were not even, and the shinny spots you speak of is a sign of holding the can too close and for too long in one spot compared to the rest of the illusion.

Spraying takes alot of practice to get really good at it, and to make a prop look half decent. Remeber 'EVEN' is the key word here when spraying.

Oh and here's a little tip to clean the nozzle of the can before you recap it and put it away for the day. Hold the can upside down and spray for about 3-5 seconds.

Message: Posted by: ClintonMagus (Aug 5, 2003 05:21AM)
If you really want a spectacular finish, talk with an auto body shop about spraying it for you. Something else you might want to do is talk with George Kimery at Chalet about buying some of his covering material he sells under the name of "Tuff Cote". It is extremely tough, is easy to apply, and has a very pleasing semi-gloss finish.

Amos McCormick
Message: Posted by: Ron Reid (Aug 5, 2003 09:08PM)
Hi Brian:

Peter and Amos have given you some real good advice - Peter is right about the shiny spots. But to answer your question...there are "Satin" finishes you can use that don't give you the high gloss finish. For instance, I've used Krylon's acrylic satin finish for a number of small projects.

Ron Reid
Message: Posted by: Chance Wolf (Aug 5, 2003 09:50PM)
My turn to chime in :banana:
If you do NOT want to re-paint what you have already completed, then just spary a Satin Finiash Clear Coat over the surface. Like Peter said. smooth even strokes, keeping it wet on the spray overlap. A BRIGHT light shining on the surface helps you watch the wetness/coating as you apply the paint. Just keep your wrist locked in position moving across keeping the same distance between the can/spraygun and surface. DO NOT ARC the spray pattern.
If you have NO CHOICE but to use "FOO-FOO Cans" then use Rust-o-leum Spray Paint. This paint has given me AMAZING finishes and great colors. It is always best to lay anything FLAT, if possible, during painting.
Hope this helps and everybody before me has great advice as well.
Take care,
Message: Posted by: brianmayo (Aug 5, 2003 10:04PM)
Thanks for the tips guys. I REALLY don't want to have to repaint this, so I will likely just go for the finish.

So can I gather some of you think it looks better 'shiny?' I was thinking it wouldn't look as good if it were shiny, at least not when its only certain parts that are that way. :bawl: I have it pretty much back to the original colors, except it now has a greater contrast. I'm using a darker blue than it came with, and a hot pink that is a lot brighter. (but the blue is what is coming out shiny)
Message: Posted by: Chance Wolf (Aug 5, 2003 10:10PM)
I personally prefer a Satin non Shiny finish. It works better with stage lighting as the color remains in view rather than washed out by glare. A Glossy finish looks cool up close and in a showroom but when function is important, I will take a glare-free finish any day.
Message: Posted by: Eldon (Aug 5, 2003 10:49PM)
I'm with you Chance. Plus you have less overspray problems.
Message: Posted by: yosef_dov (Aug 6, 2003 10:33AM)
Greetings... when I needed some equipment repainted nicely, I hired a guy who specializes in custom paint jobs for cars and motorcycles (he's an airbrush artist)... I got an awesome look with gradiated coloring, some holographic detailing, as well as some art work... of course it cost $800, but was worth it as it used automotive paint and clearcoating, and is extremely durable and pro looking... and the equipment was $30,000...

Alas, I sold it... at a loss...
:bawl: Joe