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Topic: How Hard Could It Be?
Message: Posted by: FatherWilliam57 (Jan 11, 2015 01:07PM)
What about this for a portable performance table for parlor shows? Shouldn't be too hard to build one...

Message: Posted by: FatherWilliam57 (Jan 11, 2015 01:17PM)
Of course, this wouldn't be terribly difficult either...

Message: Posted by: QuailCreek (Jan 11, 2015 01:53PM)
Nice find, FatherWilliam. Thanks for sharing.
Message: Posted by: Cliffg37 (Jan 11, 2015 02:35PM)
Thank you for finding this Father, I think it is a great table, farily easy to build, and the fabric front gives two major benefots. One is less weight to carry around, the other is the ability to change the fabric for different venues or shows. One idea that comes to mind is a fold out front that is the reveal of a chosen card or some such.
Message: Posted by: Michael Baker (Jan 11, 2015 05:17PM)
I REALLY like that first one! Great find!
Message: Posted by: Bluesman (Jan 11, 2015 06:02PM)
Thanks for posting this. I love the first one. I'm with Cliffg37 about the ability to change the fabric for different venues or shows.
I will have to make one of these myself.

Emmett :applause:
Message: Posted by: Christian Wilde (Jan 12, 2015 02:13AM)
Very interesting. I'm looking into ways to make table legs fold under the table. This looks somewhat easier to accomplish than a Harbin-style folding system. Maybe not so flashy but equally practical :-)
Message: Posted by: Eldon (Jan 12, 2015 06:15AM)
The first one reminds me of a Mak Magic Night Club Table with an extra section in the front.
Message: Posted by: Michael Baker (Jan 12, 2015 12:12PM)
[quote]On Jan 12, 2015, Eldon wrote:
The first one reminds me of a Mak Magic Night Club Table with an extra section in the front. [/quote]

Yes. I was intrigued by the hinge down the center. That element usually looks ugly on a solid panel, but this "frame" design is made for that feature.
Message: Posted by: Cliffg37 (Jan 12, 2015 01:23PM)
I have been thinking about building one of these, and I seem to have missed something. The hinges don't line up right to my eyes.

The front center line of the table folds on the hinges forward, bringing the right and left sides together.
So far so good.
But the side pieces? They look like the wings fold inside. This would not allow the the front to fully close as the picture on the web site shows.

Am I wrong?

I would put the front hinge on the outside where the fabric will cover it easily. The center folds inward and then the wings fold out to make the whole thing fairly flat.
Message: Posted by: QuailCreek (Jan 12, 2015 01:43PM)
I think the center ones are lose pin hinges.
Message: Posted by: Cliffg37 (Jan 12, 2015 01:55PM)
That would do it.
Message: Posted by: Michael Baker (Jan 12, 2015 02:30PM)
No need for loose pin hinges, Just mount them properly so the whole table accordion folds. If you look at all the photos, you will see huge discrepancies. It also shows what appears to be a hinge once placed and then removed. I chalk all this up to the genius of some foreign assembly line worker. The rear view shows the hinges all mounted on the inside. The front view shows different. Neither configuration will work.

Mount the side panel hinges so the sides fold inward, and mount the front center hinges so the front sides fold toward each other. Also, you could mount the front center hinges by mortising them on the inside edges. This would allow you to have 2 half fronts, like two tall frames side by side. Mounting the hinges this way (like a door), would hide all but the barrel of the hinges, for a neater appearance.

Also, I would make the inner shelf a bit wider (front to back), and notch the back corners (like the front corners are now) so it locks in place a bit more securely.

You can surely build one of these for half or less of the asking price. The fun part would be finding the fabric design desired, as that will make or break the whole thing, IMO.
Message: Posted by: AGMagic (Jan 12, 2015 08:16PM)
There are specialty hinges that would allow for the folding as shown. They are typically used for TV hutch doors. They are available at most woodworking specialty stores and at many hardware stores. http://www.rockler.com/270deg-overlay-hinge
Message: Posted by: thomhaha (Jan 15, 2015 08:23AM)
The Ikea Ivar shelving could easily become the frames for the first table. With Michael's excellent description, it should take an afternoon or two!
Message: Posted by: FatherWilliam57 (Jan 17, 2015 12:24PM)
Any suggestions for an appropriate wheel set and where to mount them? I am thinking four, two on the back legs and two on the "outside" legs of the front panel. Or would the center legs of the front panel need support? Thoughts?
Message: Posted by: Michael Baker (Jan 17, 2015 02:04PM)
Four should be fine. When the table is folded, there will be an even distribution of legs, so it will remain more or less upright. I see no reason to add support under the center point when it's open, unless you really plan to load it down with heavy props. All the weight will be distributed evenly among the four casters.

Because there is likely not enough surface to mount plate style casters, I'd go for stem and socket types, but I want to make sure the frame was made of good hardwood (Oak, Cherry, Maple, etc.), not something soft like pine. Also, the stiles should be of a dimension so there is plenty of room to drill for and mount the sockets... I'd think a minimum of 1"x1". Larger might be better. Check the available casters before cutting wood, if you haven't already.
Message: Posted by: TheRaven (Jan 19, 2015 09:17AM)
First one is a great design. You could buy the panes as cabinet doors from somewhere like IKEA if you didn't want to make all the frames. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50220957/#/20220954

The only drawback is the shelves aren't connected so you would need a bag or bungie to transport.
Message: Posted by: TheRaven (Jan 19, 2015 04:36PM)
If you zoom in on the picture you can see the corner hinges are a different style then the center hinges. They allow for the thickness of the front panel and allow it to fold over. Simpler and cheaper would be what Michael suggess.
Message: Posted by: Magnus Eisengrim (Jan 26, 2015 12:34PM)
What do you think about the height. Where would you like the top and the shelf relative to your own body? (The one in the OP is 39" high, but we're all built a bit different.)
Message: Posted by: Cliffg37 (Jan 26, 2015 12:41PM)
I was thinking 36 inches, but I am not so tall. If I build one for someone else, I would probably go the 39".
Message: Posted by: Magnus Eisengrim (Jan 26, 2015 01:55PM)
Thanks Cliff.

I'm just a slice under 6'1" but my legs are short (32" inseam) and my torso is long, so it's easy for me to look out of proportion to things.
Message: Posted by: FatherWilliam57 (Mar 24, 2015 03:06PM)
Been a while since I posted (then again, it's been a while since I returned to working on this project). I like to repurpose things, especially since I have more "time equity" to spend than money. Went to the local Habitat for Humanity on Saturday and bought a pair of solid wood bifold doors, solid panel on bottom, louvers on top. Cut each door panel (four of them) in half, squared them up if you do this, watch out for warpage), then cut to final size (34" height). These are 18" wide panels. Now I have enough material (eight panels) to make a main table plus two side tables. All for $15! Hope to take some pictures as I progress and will post them here.
Message: Posted by: Chris Stolz (Mar 26, 2015 10:26AM)
Throw two 45 mirrors in that second one :)
Message: Posted by: FatherWilliam57 (Mar 27, 2015 03:05PM)
[quote]On Mar 26, 2015, Chris Stolz wrote:
Throw two 45 mirrors in that second one :) [/quote]
Please explain or guide me to another thread which addresses this. You obviously have something in mind. Unfortunately, there is nothing right in my left brain, and nothing left in my right. If this involves a "reveal," please feel free to PM me. Thanks!