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Ekuth Inner circle Floating above my 1538 Posts |
So... I've decided to be an idiot and build my own STN.
Here's my issue (I'll try to be circumspect): How do I avoid the tip of the blade from binding on the curves in the stock? I've cut it to a "V" point, but as it 'rounds the corners' it tends to bind and stop the blade. Now the halves of the blade are not secured at the tip as they are along the blade edges- is this my problem and if so, what is the best securement method for the tip? Also: Additional layers of the blade material for stiffness; pros vs. cons? Any guidance gratefully accepted.
"All you need is in Fitzkee."
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jimgerrish Inner circle East Orange, NJ 3209 Posts |
Try cutting the tip to a "U" rather than a "V".
Jim Gerrish
magicnook@yahoo.com https://www.magicnook.com Home of The Wizards' Journals: https://magicnook.com/wizardsTOC.htm |
Ekuth Inner circle Floating above my 1538 Posts |
Jim, thanks for the response.
Unfortunately, that's not working either...
"All you need is in Fitzkee."
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jimgerrish Inner circle East Orange, NJ 3209 Posts |
I can't tell from here whether your stock has an all metal "sheath" or if it is wood on one or both sides. If it is wood, you may have a burr sticking out that is clogging the works. Try testing it out with a single piece cut from a ruler.
Jim Gerrish
magicnook@yahoo.com https://www.magicnook.com Home of The Wizards' Journals: https://magicnook.com/wizardsTOC.htm |
StevieDee Regular user Salt Lake City area 154 Posts |
In the version I have, the tip is V-shaped but not pointed. At the very end it is flat (as if the point was cut off for about a 1/4" and soldered at the end. That might solve your problem.
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Ekuth Inner circle Floating above my 1538 Posts |
Problem solved.
I simply hadn't thought all the engineering angles out and needed a few helpers in those spots to "roll" things along. Also found that a slanted tip to the blade (as in a katana) works much better than a "V" or "U". @Jim: Leather on both sides of the 'sheath', actually. Heavy stuff, smooth side in. Wood above and below. @Stevie: Thanks for replying. I did try the flat end like you suggested but I was still getting binding. Changed it to a slant cut and it works much smoother. Apparently, this is a more complicated beastie than I had initially thought... but I'm having fun with it. Thank you, gentlemen, it's appreciated.
"All you need is in Fitzkee."
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Bill Hegbli Eternal Order Fort Wayne, Indiana 22797 Posts |
Ekuth, yes, the groove has to have metal walls on each side. The tip should be a U.Abbott's sells a mylar tape material they cover their swords with, one over each edge and then one traveling from the handle around the tip to the other side of the handle. Tip is pulled flat at the tip. Roydon who invented the trick, actually lightly soldered the tip together with very low temp solder. Clamping the tip to tight will cause the tip to split.
Yes, a lot has to do with the curve of the stock going around the neck. Smooth, gradual, curves is the solution. |
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