By broken do you mean physically broken or that it just does not spray. If the latter I had the same problem when I first used mine after a few usages. I soaked my cap in paint thinner over nite and the cap sprayed again perfectly after. It had gummed up and everything else I tried failed. I also had contacted Cardshark and got a replacement eventually but I still use the original one. There’s also a forum for Science Friction owners that has useful info.

NM

Well it got gummed up. I was advised to use a pin to break through the blockage, but the little channel seems to be split. Plus there's still gunk in there. And I always shake like a mad man. Any good candidates for a cap?

No luck. I just get the message to clean it out. I'll pester them again, I guess. thanks for the info.

Not for nothing, but you can replace the spray nozzles for like $6 on Amazon. I gotta figure if you have a paint store nearby, they likely sell replacement nozzles.

The heck with fixing the one you got, just go buy a new one for cheap.

If soaking it in a cleaning solvent doesn’t work then find a can of cheap spray paint at Home Depot or a paint store that has a matching nozzle.
Buy it and take off the nozzle before you spray anything with it and put it on your can.

With SF do you need to spray both cards or only one card need the treatment?
Tricky Ricky

Only 1 in most cases

Did you try to turn the can upside down and let it sit for a while? I have had many spray paint cans do the same after leaving it upside down it worked fine.

Kalix: Thanks for the info about nozzles. I just wasn't sure if there's a certain size/pattern I should get which is best for applying Science Friction.

Kallix: The nozzles you recommended fit, and spray comes out, but it's way too much compared to the original. One little spritz and there's too much SF on the cards. Customer support from SF isn't so good -- I'll just buy a bunch from blick (or plasti-dip) and swap out.

If you ordered the pack I recommended, it came with a red and black nozzle. The black nozzle is a fan tip and will spray way more fluid than the standard red one.

Did you use the black tip or the red? The red is the regular one and is the one to use.

I used the red one. Thanks! Just bad luck for me with this and I'll chalk it up as a loss and just use roughing stick

Shaun- Incase you haven't solved the issue, post and ask for someone who has finished off a can or is about to buy a second can to send you their nozzle.

I ended up buying Plasti-Dip. It seems to be the same stuff (to me).

What kind of plasti-dip is best to use? I am assuming the "satinizer," is that correct?

The right PD is the one advertised as 'clear' on the can.

Those who claim that SF is the best are the ones who bought SF and are proud that they spent so much money on it and want to keep it that way.
I have tested clear Plasti-Dip, Rustoleum and Flex Seal. They all work wonderfully. There is no issue at all having me think of an improvement or that I should throw away much more $$$ in to SF. And don't forget the method to only cover a portion of the card down the center. 👍

Certainly not a huge difference between clear Plasti-Dip, Rustoleum, and SF.
I’ve used and tested all 3 side by side. Bottom line is they are all very similar and do the job well.

I found Plasti-Dip and Rustoleum to have ever so slightly more grip than SF, and this can be good or bad depending on your needs or the dryness of your hands.
SF is a little more invisible and a bit more undetectable to the touch in my tests.

If you can find clear PD quite easily at a store near you then that is probably your best bet and best value. But not everyone can because in certain areas it seems to be difficult to find it in clear or even at all. But it can be purchased online also but usually for a higher price.

It seems many people aren’t aware that the first can purchased of SF comes with a slew of goodies and a very good video explaining the proper use and application and a bunch of effects. Along with the first can you receive a code which allows you to purchase refill cans for about $35, so the cost per can is a lot less after the first one.

One nice thing about any of these is you only need to apply it to one card, whereas roughing fluid needs to be applied to 2 cards in order for them to stay together.
This is nice for effects where the non-treated card is handled by the spectator, even though it’s very unlikely they would notice any roughing fluid if that were used instead.

For effects where the spectator might examine a treated card, or in some cases the entire deck, then I personally feel the extra cost of SF is worth it for the piece of mind of making it a little more undetectable.

Keep in mind that these tests are somewhat subjective because there are many factors that can affect how the treated cards look and behave, such as the amount applied, how long ago the treatment was applied, perhaps even how well the spray can is shaken prior to use among other factors.

I should mention also that I only ever treat the middle portion of a card, about a 1” or so wide strip running from one long edge to the other.

A question about Plasti-Dep: Is it better to spray only one card or both cards? Thanx in adavance.

I spray only one card.