I saw Harry Blackstone Jr. do this years ago and it was spectacular. (Was his made out of wood?) I've seen some poorly made ones at the local magic store for ~$50.00

Who makes the best?

Davemen,
I saw his performance. It was not wood. It was metal. I have seen the cheap ones too. I think the Magic Hands in Germany makes a really good one, and I suspect Stevens Magic may have a nice one, but I have not checked.

Thanks,
Timothy

If you are so inclined check out the improvements to the bird cage by Tommy Wonder in Volume 2 of the Books of Wonder.

First, Blackstone's was made by Abbott Magic and are still being made today. His was what is called the semi-rigid model. It takes a little skill to hold it so it looks solid.
Other type is a rigid model. Lindhorst used to make this type. There are several cheap imports being made. Don't bother. They will break and could hurt you. The best made today is Owen Magic. It is what all the pros use. I suggest you figure out presentation outline before investing in one.

RE: The Vanishing Bird Cage.

Blackstone's cage was made by Pete Bouton - Harry, Sr.'s brother. During the 1960's (and perhaps later) Pete Bouton made them for Abbotts. These types of cages are termed
"flexible" cages and are the fastest vanishing cages. (but harder to hold) I have an older Abbotts cage that looks the same; but is much larger. BTW - Blackstone's cage is shown and is currently being auctioned off on ebay. BTW - these types of cages can be sleightly modified for easier holding.

Also in the 1960's and a little later Milson-Worth produced a small all metal cage (aluminum and brass) that was a loose copy of the Lindhorst type of cage. The Milson-Worth cage is the one copied by all of the cheaper manufacturers. (India)

These cages are so much easier to make than a Lindhorst. This is the style of cage that Tommy Wonder went to such lengths to modify. If he had started out with a good cage to begin with, all of the additions would not have been needed. The design of the Milson-Worth cage is very poor. In addition, this cage hardly looks like a cage.

The real Lindhorst style of cage is a wonderful design. There is an excellent drawing of this type of cage in the Harbin book. If you compare these drawings with the drawings of the TW books, you will see the differences. The Lindhorst cage is slightly larger than a Blackstone type and made of brass and aluminum.

I decided to make myself a smaller version (a "Baby Lindhorst") for a special close-up application. It is shown on one of my web pages. It was crafted from stainless steel and brass. This is how these small cages should have been made.

Owen Magic Supreme in Azusa, I believe, is the only well known company currently supplying the correctly made Lindhorst style of cage. In with my other cages, I have an older Owen cage - and it is well made. It is aluminum and brass just like my actual Lindhorst model - and the same size. I think the newer Owen cages are stainless steel.

There are several other lesser known cage designs. Now and then one of these cages shows up on ebay.

I hope this fills in some info on the cages.
Jim

Jim,

Are you currently making cages? Also on a different subject what is the low end pricing on a cheaper model hold out for coin work?

KingStardog;
I haven't made a Lindhorst in several years. I have a stack of parts for a dozen of my "Baby Lindhorst" cages; but have been too busy with other projects to get back to them. Meanwhile the parts sit in a can collecting dust - so it goes. Perhaps one of these days I'll find a free week to work on them. There is a great deal of hand work in a Lindhorst type of cage.

Regarding holdouts:
I haven't had time to make any additional holdouts since my 1999 lever action models. My next design was to be a stripped down Kepplinger that could be used when seated or standing. The design is all worked out; but I have just been too busy making other items to do a run of holdouts. I sort of follow my current interests when making things and holdouts are not on the top of the list right now. At this time, I'd say the Kohler/Fitch holdout would be your best bet for coin work - with appropriate attachments for exactly what you want to do.

I have been much too busy to even think about holdout designs for the past three years.

I'm not complaining - just stating facts. Many magicians have ben waiting for well over a year for some of my items. These goodies can only be made so fast and there are only so many hours in a day.

Jim

I went ahead and purchased the Abbotts cage (the new small one) but they inadverdently sent it without instructions (they promised to send them out immediately).

In the mean time, I've swapped out the rope for some elastic.

I'm having a ^&** of a time trying to figure out how to hold the cage so that it doesn't collapse on itself. Any guidance appreciated!

Davemen;
I bought my first Vanishing Bird Cage (a Pete Bouton cage from Abbotts) in 1963 and have performed the effect (with a variety of cages) in virtually every show since then. I mention this so that you understand what I will be writing is based upon much experience with the effect and the cages themselves.

First of all, put the cord back on the cage. You can not do it with "elastic" or bungee etc. The correct length must be determined. Cut the cord, melt the end, and you are ready. The cord can quickly be put on by just looping it and placing the arm through this loop.

This effect requires a great deal of practice. It is possible to easily hold the Abbotts cage with only the right hand - with practice (and the cord). The cord, with a little tension on it, actually helps hold the cage in position. Also, if needed, the rear lower right corner of the cage can be re-ribboned to slightly stiffen it. To do so, remove the ribbon in this corner and wrap/sew some additional ribbon around this joint - just a couple layers. Pull it tight when you wrap it. Then re-sew on the original ribbon over the added ribbon.

Now try it again. You will not get it in a few seconds. You must be able to hold it in a casual and natural looking manner. Keep practicing.

When you get this learned, perhaps I can help you with the vanish itself.
Jim

Jim,

You were right. The rope really helped. Tips on the vanish would be appreciated.

Thanks!
-Dave

Dave;
I have selected the "final destination" to be between my right elbow and shoulder. The cord has been adjusted to allow quickly getting the package into this location. Once there, it will stay there until I let it lower to between the elbow and wrist. The "final destination" must be decided upon before anything else may be done.

I do only one vanish in my act - with spectators assisting for the vanish. After that, I move on to my egg bag routine using the same two assistants (since they are up on stage with nothing to do).

I strongly suggest that you perfect the vanish long before attempting things with two helpers. Here are a few tips on the vanish:

1. Button your coat before showing the cage so that it is obvious it can not go into the coat.
2. Display the cage in front of you held between both hands. Drop your left hand from the cage while making a natural looking hand gesture and pattering. The cage can easily be held in the right hand. When held with only the right hand, the arm may be pivoted away from the body in rather apparently free movements. This overcomes the need to hold the cage close to the chest.
3. Bring the cage back in front of you as you again hold it between both hands.
4. This is critical - Hold cage away from you as far as possible to put tension on the pull. There should be no slack at all. With the slightest arm movements, the cage will just go.
5. The coat may be unbuttuned and the sleeves pulled up - it is gone!

You will need lots of practice; but that's all there is to it.
Jim

I have two Abbotts cages from over 20 years ago and have used my main one in over 1000 shows and it's still going strong. I had to make tiny repairs a few times and replace the nylon flat cord on it several times. The second one I got from a retired magician and keep it for when No 1 breaks.

Point is, if you get a good cage it will last you forever (and have a second for a back up).

Try this for presentation. I did this for a couple of seasons and still do it from time to time, but be careful. Do it wrong and OUCH!

Place a quarter sheet of flash paper in the cage. (I had a patter for this but have done it without patter.) Place it over a lit candle (important part coming up) WAIT A SECOND for the paper to be 90%+ burned and then vanish it. The Flash gets a dyn-O-mite reaction.

I wear long sleeves and never singed any body parts but the cage does go in warmer than without the FP.

-vk

I have an Owen vanishing bird cage. This thing is like butter. LOL oh my gosh you can toss the thing up in the air and it won't collapse, and then when you pull the cord. Again, like butter. I HIGHLY recommend it.