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RandyStewart Inner circle Texas (USA) 1989 Posts |
I'm looking for a soldering tool to attach a few items and keep the tool for future repairs on the same if needed.
I need to solder four items together. The objects have the shape and weight of four lightweight steel drinking coasters and would slightly overlap each other before soldering. Actually if not used for this purpose they could, in fact, serve as coasters. The disks will slightly overlap each other in a half circle shape. The item is used in a production sequence and won't undergo rigorous handling. Any online recommendations? During my online search for such a tool I've discovered most information is on how to solder wires etc. and many of the tools recommended are very bulky and expensive. Not sure if there is a practical soldering kit for this purpose or if I should have a welder do the work. |
LostSoul Regular user Dave 148 Posts |
Well, it's been a long time since I did any "non-wire" soldering, but I do solder rails together on a model railroad .
You need something to get the metal "coasters" hot enough to melt the solder. You can use a torch, I remember a long time ago you could get a solder attachment for a “Benson” torch. It will really depend on the thickness of the metal, if it’s thin enough, any reasonable iron should work. If the disks are decorated and heat will ruin them, look at resistance soldering. This is pretty expensive still (a couple of hundred for what I’ve seen) but from I understand, the heat is kept to a minimum. Hope this helps, Dave |
RandyStewart Inner circle Texas (USA) 1989 Posts |
Thanks for the input Dave. Resistance soldering won't hurt the disks as they have no decorations on them YET.
I think your right about any reasonable iron working on this. This is where I became unsure as I was bombarded with variety in iron voltage. I'll wait a little longer, for suggestions by others, before hitting Ebay for one of these. I'll go with something middle of the road and not too low or too high on voltage. If it weren't for the fact that I want to have the tool for possible repairs, I would of just had a professional do it. |
Bill Hegbli Eternal Order Fort Wayne, Indiana 22797 Posts |
If you can apply a torch to the disk then you can use what is known as 'sweat' soldering.
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Randy,
Much of this depends on what the objects are actually made of... what type of metal?? Here is a quick fix suggestion that you might like... Instead of soldering or welding, as you may not know the metal, and not every method would work for all metals, there is a 2-part epoxy product on the market called PC7. I buy it at Ace Hardware. It comes in a couple different sizes. In the set, both cans have differing, but thick pastes. Just mix equal amounts together and use it to stick the items together. It cures in 24 hours, so clamp parts together if gravity will not be your friend. This stuff is amazing. It works on a wide range of materials. I think it would probably stick a good idea to a frog fart. ~michael
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
hugmagic Inner circle 7655 Posts |
Randy,
I can do resistance soldering. It is an expensive machine to buy and you have to learn how to use. I would agree with Michael's epoxy bonding solution. We don't know what type of metal this it which would be a problem. JB Weld or other items are sure worth a try. Richard
Richard E. Hughes, Hughes Magic Inc., 352 N. Prospect St., Ravenna, OH 44266 (330)296-4023
www.hughesmagic.com email-hugmagic@raex.com Write direct as I will be turning off my PM's. |
Stanyon Inner circle Landrum, S.C. by way of Chicago 3433 Posts |
Ditto on the "JB Weld". I have used this product to make different configurations of Mike Gallo's "Siamese Coins". (For my own use only!) Strong stuff.
Cheers!
Stanyon
aka Steve Taylor "Every move a move!" "If you've enjoyed my performance half as much as I've enjoyed performing for you, then you've enjoyed it twice as much as me!" |
RiserMagic Veteran user 361 Posts |
Randy;
The material and thickness make a world of difference for soldering/welding. If these discs are to be arranged "fan like", perhaps a rivet might be more useful. An eyelet would allow hanging the assembly from a hook, pull, thread, etc. A riveted or eyeleted assembly would allow collapsing the thing and fanning them as produced (provided the rivet/eyelet was loose enough). Jim |
RandyStewart Inner circle Texas (USA) 1989 Posts |
Well thanks for the ideas fellows. Here's what I've done vs. my original intent. The disks are now on a rivet as suggested by RiserMagic and I've glued a ribbon along the back (this took some experimenting to get right) so the items collapse to the size of one and using gravity immediately open with the right spacing between them.
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