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New York
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Profile of CoolMAgic4U
Actually in the DVD he says he is only using the plexiglass so that we can see what is going on. He has brass plates (I think that is what he said) at home that he uses.

Anything that is flat that you can clam together would work fine I believe...
CoolMagic4U---aka---Ed Smile
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Profile of ABlair36
About scraping, whenever I scrap the cards, they turn out to be to flimsy. What do you suggest? I'm pretty new to dry splitting. I am just trying the technique of putting glue on both sides, then letting both dry then attatching them, maybe the extre glue will add the needed thickness.
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Profile of Carron
Definitely use Dry Mount. Just do a search on Google. IMHO it is the best method and produces the best results.

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Myrtle Beach
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Profile of JoeJoe
"I tried using the glue-stick, but the cards ended up stiff. What's happening?"

Simple, the glue stick you are using dries "hard". Many glues are like this - which is why (like others have suggested) you should use Rubber Cement. Rubber Cement is not hard when it dries, thus the card will be more flexiable.

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delta, pennsylvania
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Profile of martini
Greetings All:
Thank you for the kind comments about my DVD. In regards to glue, I use and suggest Elmers No-Wrinkle Rubber Cement #E-904, it comes in a 4 oz. bottle with a blue and white label on it and you can find it in the staionary section of your local Wal-Mart.
I have found that glue sticks just don't give me the same flexability, nor hold that I need. I also have found that sprays clog very quickly and that the latex based glue and thinner carry agent it is mixed with, never come out consistantly for card work.
In regards to the plates, the plexi plates were used in the DVD as stated above so that you could see the cards clamped up. At home here, I have hardplate aluminum plates and some brass plates that I use. If I am doing a lot of card work for orders, I will at times use the plexi plates. The whole object of the plates is to clamp the cards while they dry.
With reagrds to scraping, If you are glueing up a double back or double face card, then this is not really needed. But if you are doing a half and half, side by side split, or diagonal split, then you want to use a small section (about 2" square) of a scothbrite pad. This will remove the fibres that would cause the attached part of the card to rise above the level surface of the rest of the card.
I hope this has helped, if any of you have any questions regarding making your own gaffs, feel free to ask anytime, I am always here to help.
All the Best
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Profile of gdw
I used to use the 3-M spray mount adhesive to GREAT effect. Although it can get messy and sticky.

The best thing to use, and it is used by manufactures of certain card Gaffs is the dry photo mount adhesive and an iron.

You can buy it at many camera shops. Not ones like Black's but for real photographers and enthusiast.

It is similar to a wax paper and you just follow the instructions. But make sure to put some BLANK paper between th card and the iron. I learned this the hard way.
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Carolina Shores, N.C.
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Profile of MerlH
Try double stick tape. I use it all the time.
Merl Hamen Old dog-- New tricks
Dennis Michael
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Southern, NJ
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Profile of Dennis Michael
Go with the expert's reputation "Marty Martini". His DVD tells all and his lecture is the best.

When it comes to gluing, Marty would know after many, many years of trying different brands and finally coming to Elmers No-Wrinkle Rubber Cement #E-904, he even specifies E-904 for a specific reason. You must find that number on the label!

In his lecture, Marty tells you why, glue sticks, & tape are not the best. If you're into card spliting and packet making, you must own his DVD on this topic. Why experiment, when all the research has been done on this topic?

Go with his recommendations.
Dennis Michael
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Malaysia, now In New Zealand
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Profile of paulmagic
Another wonderful thread - thanks. Was thinking of spillting some cards to put in some shim material. After reading, I am now also interested to try making my own gaffed cards!

Many Blessings!!

Tom Lauten
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Profile of Tom Lauten
If you check out art and craft shops you might find a "flower press"...this is usally two wooden plates with four bolts through them ...better to just show you....


for those of us in the UK here is a kit to make one up!!!!...

or here for the USA

Here is a set of project plans...

...They work very well to press home made gaffs while they "cure".

Living at and loving Loch Ness!
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Reviewer EndersGame
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Profile of EndersGame
I just stumbled across this thread while looking for information about making double-faced or double-backed cards. There's some great advice here. I found that using contact cement (= rubber cement) works great (I use an extra card to "paste" on the cement and make sure all the edges are covered). I've been gluing two cards together, as described in Tom Ogden's The Complete Idiot's Guide to Magic Tricks (p.122), so the result does have a double thickness. Making double faced cards with rubber cement is also described in Hugard & Braue's Expert Card Technique (p.409-410). Page 409 includes an explanation of how to peel cards using a dry split technique, but I haven't had much luck in mastering that yet.

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Profile of leaycraft
Can't recommend enough Martini - also THE GAFF FACTORY by Craig Matsuoka. Of course this is IMHO.

"It is an old maxim of mine that when you have excluded the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." A. Conan Doyle," The Sign of Four"
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Nassau Bay, TX
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Profile of RayBanks
On 2008-02-23 09:38, leaycraft wrote:
Can't recommend enough Martini - also THE GAFF FACTORY by Craig Matsuoka. Of course this is IMHO.


I have both. Watch the Martini DvD for techniques to split cards. While his rubber cement method works well, I prefer to use dry mount tissue as in The Gaff Factory. Both will get you into the "let's make a gaffed card" fraternity.

Be aware that it does take a lot of practice to get really good at it. And a lot of brand new cards!!
Pick a card, any card...No. not THAT one...THIS one

Ray Banks
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