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Face Elite user 495 Posts |
I have now completed my drawings and I am ready to build myself a base, so what is actually the best material to use for bases? It has to be thin and yet so strong.
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freefallillusion1 Elite user Cincinnati, OH 446 Posts |
Um, well, plywood, pine lumber, sheet metal, aluminum, vinyl, spandex, felt, not to mention screws, wood glue, spray adhesive, black paint, casters...
Seriously, I'd recommend Rand Woodbury's videos on building illusions, specifically volume 1 which shows exactly what you want to learn. Good luck! |
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Face Elite user 495 Posts |
I know. I'm trying to get them but it's hard. Shipping to the place I live takes forever and most shops have sold it out already.
Anyway, your list is really ... I know a lot about buliding things, especially furniture. Well, check this out if interested: http://www.norest.no But to build a base, the materials have to be so thin and solid, so it won't bend while stepping on the base:S So seriously...what do you reccomend? Thanks |
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Cliffg37 Inner circle Long Beach, CA 2491 Posts |
Seriously, the list that freefallillusion1 gave you is rather thorough. Go with it. Get a book on ilusions, Woodbury's is excellent, and make it happen.
Magic is like Science,
Both are fun if you do it right! |
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Frank Simpson Special user SW Montana 883 Posts |
Consider too that it is nearly impossible to recommend specific materials without specific knowledge of the prop. One might take a very different approach to building a Crystal Casket base than, say, a Doll House.
T***s can be made of many different things, everything from plywood to fabric, again depending on the specifics of the prop. Structurally speaking, vertical supports might be made of one material, while horizontal surfaces might be something entirely different. If there are beveled surfaces, they might be something different yet again. So really if you want specific advice, you'll need to provide specific information. In which case I would suggest using PMs or emailing to protect your design. |
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Face Elite user 495 Posts |
You are absolutely right Frank, it was really unprofessional to start topic like that without giving any important information at all. Sorry for bothering you all here like that. My bad :S
But if anyone really feels that he could (and wants) to help and has a little time for me...please PM me, I could send you my drawings and ask more specific questions. Anyway...Thanks |
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leapinglizards Inner circle 1263 Posts |
Typically, I prefer making bevels out of wood-framed fiberglass shells. They are thinner and have less wasted space.
Welded metal bases are AWESOME if you have the tools and the know how. As I have neither of those... Fiberglass was my preference. Also, if you plan to make several identical bases, as I did back when I built for others, you can make a mold from a fiberglass base and make the others even FASTER. Cover them with double black stretch velvet.
Leaping Lizards!!! Who knew it was possible.
<BR> <BR>www.LeapingLizardsMagic.com |
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EsnRedshirt Special user Newark, CA 895 Posts |
Leapinglizards, I used black lycra on mine (dull side visible.) I've found the extra stretchiness of the fabric to be useful.
Self-proclaimed Jack-of-all-trades and google expert*.
* = Take any advice from this person with a grain of salt. |
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leapinglizards Inner circle 1263 Posts |
Yes indeed... Both work. The up side of stretch velvet is if it gets a worn spot, you can re-flock it. Lycra it won't.
I've seen bases covered in felt, vinyl, and even neoprene. I think the Lycra is awesome if you flock it, otherwise there is the risk of shine depending on if the sides get rubbed. But that goes for almost ANY fabric. Rub it enough, it will get shiny. With fiberglass, you can create a textured mold, or you can add sand. You can put pigment, such as India Ink, in the resin's gel coat. Then, if you spray it flat black it ends up pretty ***ed flat black AND hard to damage. Of course you still have to pick a fabric for the top, but the top is usually not as visible to the audience.
Leaping Lizards!!! Who knew it was possible.
<BR> <BR>www.LeapingLizardsMagic.com |
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AEdwards Regular user North Carolina 106 Posts |
Andrew Mayne has some great ideas on giving the base a beveled look using spandex in his book Illusion F/X
Later, Anton |
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makeupguy Inner circle 1411 Posts |
I've been making all my bases for years out of aluminum... traps and all.. unless it needs to be a quick escape.. then it's spandex...
You can also make them out of fiberglass.. it's a good thing... it's lighter than aluminum.. but metal bases are indestrucible.. |
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p:m Loyal user Toronto, Canada 230 Posts |
Are these for sale anywhere?
p:m
<BR>www.petermckinnon.com |
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Chris Stolz Inner circle Mississauga, Ontario 1958 Posts |
Quote:
On 2006-08-09 08:16, Jak wrote: Bases? Although you can buy a pre-fabricated base your best bet is to either make your own, or have one made just for you. It is very important to make sure the dimentions are right for you as opposed to "one size fits all".
Chris Stolz
BLACK ART BOOK: Hiding In The Shadows. |
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BRodgers Special user 543 Posts |
Face, I have built a deceptive base using Rand Woodbury's design from his tapes, and have learned alot. I have attatched a pic of it, so if you have any questions, just ask and I'll do my best. I will alos upload the higher resolution version of the pic on a host site, along with other pics from various angles.
Click here to view attached image.
Creator of The Phantom Band 360
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Cliffg37 Inner circle Long Beach, CA 2491 Posts |
Brodgers....that IS beautiful
Magic is like Science,
Both are fun if you do it right! |
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BRodgers Special user 543 Posts |
Cliffg37 - Thanks, it was my first large illusion build. I have uploaded the larger version to a host site here: http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k254/drsr2504/2d35fe31.jpg
Creator of The Phantom Band 360
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BRodgers Special user 543 Posts |
Face - One helpful method for getting an idea for dimensions for the base as far as the load space is to have whoever will be in the base lay on a flat surface, then set a board on top of that person, and measure from the surface to the board at its thickest point. I'd add an extra 3/4 of an inch at least to be safe. I hope that is clear, if not just pm or email me and I'll further explain.
Creator of The Phantom Band 360
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magicmanrob Regular user 158 Posts |
BRodgers I agree you did a good job on it. We ahve two we built from Rand Woodbury's book one we use for shadow theater and the other for an illusion we designed ourselves both are as sweet as yours and we take a lot of pride in knowing we did such a good job ourselves on.
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Christopher Starr Inner circle Heart of America 1850 Posts |
I have to also give props to BRodgers - that is one incredible home made base! How long did it take to make, and how much have you got in it ($$)?
What was it used for? Chris |
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BRodgers Special user 543 Posts |
Starr - Thank you very much for your comments. It took me about 3 weeks to build(only working on it on Mondays, only day I have off). If I worked on it non-stop, and I had all the materials I needed at once, probably 3 to 4 days. As far as my costs, I don't know exactly, things were bought far apart, but I'd say around 250. The vinal covering and aluminum bottom and trim were the most expensive parts of it.
It was used for a variety of things, a cystal casket type of appearance. Other types of vanishes and appearances. I'm sure there are many other uses for it. I'v thought that if anyone would like to have one like this built, then I'd be happy to do it, any size or shape. Also, if this is a copyrighted or licenced piece, then please let me know, I will not go any further. I don't wanna step on anyones toes. Brian
Creator of The Phantom Band 360
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