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sb Special user 567 Posts |
I am in the process of making a new illusion. It is primarily sheet metal and aluminum. I have changed my mind as to what the final look is going to be (mid project) I want the thing to appear to be just raw wood straight from a lumber yard.
Question 1: One "step" of the base is framed with aluminum, and covered in sheet metal. I want this "step" to appear to be a sheet of wood that has been just set on top of the lower step. This step is 1" thick. Does anyone know of a laminent, that looks like a sheet of wood. A little weathered would be great! I don't really want to replace the "step with an actual peice of lumber, as it needs to be hollow, with a surface that is strong enough to support some weight (this is where the metal comes in). Question 2: assuming that I can get some sort of acceptable laminent for the top, what should I do about the 1" side? I guess experimenting here with the top laminent would be the first option, but wood does not look the same from the sides as it does the top (well, ply wood at least). Any thoughts here? Question 3: I would like another part to look like a 2X4. This part has not been fabricated yet, so I could use an actual 2x4, but if I could use aluminum and sheet metal(for the weight factor) that would be great, any thoughts on how to make this look like a piece of 2X4? thanks in advance scott |
sb Special user 567 Posts |
Ok, I am getting somewhere here... http://www.eaglebaywood.com/HTML/veneers.html this seems like a good place to start.
Veneers, pros or cons (this site says its real wood, just thin) scott |
mvmagic Inner circle Has written 1322 Posts |
Well, you could use adhesive-backed vinyl with wood texture. There's many types available. Another option would be using a specialised painter, who can simulate wood texture with paint, that can look very real. I don't know what it is called in English though. Formica also comes in different wood textures:
http://www.formica.com/publish/site/na/u......ali.html Its true that wood doesn't look the same on all sides, but that neccessarily doesn't matter if the prop looks wooden many propably wont notice the little lack of realism. For the 2x4 you could try what we have done in special effects, that is to cover the metal 2x4 with very thin pieces of real wood. We made a light 2x4 (for hitting an actor on the back) by cutting a few millimeter thick slices of real 2x4's with a band saw (with really thin, fine blade) and glued them on a styrofoam block. You could try a similar approach on the 1" side of the step.
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Dave Dorsett Veteran user Macomb, Illinois 345 Posts |
IF you're going to the trouble of slicing thin strips from 2 x 4's you should just go ahead and use wood veneer. Years ago we did a pedestal table vanish (looked like a dining room table... from Rand Woodbury's books). The bulk of the prop was metal but we covered it in veneer and you couldn't tell the difference.
For the 1" step, there are rolls of veneer tape that size so you wouldn't even have to cut to width. Just be certain not to rely on any adhesive the tape may be backed with. You should rough sand your metal surface (about 220 grit) and coat it well with laminate or veneer adhesive. Coat your veneer also and let both dry to the touch, then put together using a roller. CAUTION- 1.- the glue is flammable and the fumes are highly toxic! Use care and follow instructions. 2.- You only get ONE chance to position the veneer onto the metal using this glue. Once they contact, that's it.
Dave Dorsett
Douglas~Wayne Illusioneering |
George Ledo Magic Café Columnist SF Bay Area 3042 Posts |
I'd say mvmagic pretty much covered it: the classic theatrical method of having a scenic artist paint it, or using a plastic laminate.
If you live near a good college or live theater group, you can find people who can do this type of painting. As far as the ends for the plastic laminate, you can use ribbon veneer, available at Home Depot, Lowe's, and other places. Or, you can use the laminate itself: cut a thin strip (with the grain) for the leading edge of the step, and two thin strips (across the grain) for the ends. Think of it as "wrapping" the laminate around the metal. The only thing about laminate is that it tends to read like plastic. You'll need to dull down the finish somewhat. Sheet veneers, like for the top of the step, can wear through quickly; they're not intended for this type of use.
That's our departed buddy Burt, aka The Great Burtini, doing his famous Cups and Mice routine
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EsnRedshirt Special user Newark, CA 895 Posts |
Quote: The paint will wear through quickly, too. It doesn't matter how clean the stage or props are, it'll pick up marrs and scuffs nearly every show. If you do go the paint route with students, stick around and watch them paint it, ask them to show you how. You'll be repainting it fairly frequently (just like you'd be replacing the wood or plastic veneer.)On 2006-03-30 09:49, George Ledo wrote:
Self-proclaimed Jack-of-all-trades and google expert*.
* = Take any advice from this person with a grain of salt. |
George Ledo Magic Café Columnist SF Bay Area 3042 Posts |
Quote:
On 2006-03-30 10:59, EsnRedshirt wrote: Sure, but it sounds like that's what he wanted -- something that looks like a plain piece of wood, which will of course be scuffed from use. Another option would be to use a very thin piece of ply (like 1/8" lauan) on top of the metal and just accept that you'll have to replace it fairly often, since it will wear through.
That's our departed buddy Burt, aka The Great Burtini, doing his famous Cups and Mice routine
www.georgefledo.net Latest column: "Sorry about the photos in my posts here" |
mvmagic Inner circle Has written 1322 Posts |
Of course the durability of the paint can be greatly increased with a polyurethane clear coat, its tough stuff. It will not last forever, but a much longer than just paint.
We once tested (but never used) painting faux wood on a sheet of lexan (or a similar tough clear material, not sure whether it was lexan). The trick was that it was painted backwards so the speak so it looked like wood beneath glass but that was rather weird looking...
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Dave Fiscus New user 94 Posts |
Yes veneering the metal by using contact cement to glue on thin wood will work but you will find the veneers and veneer tapes rather expensive and a pain to put on (removing bubbles, etc.). The suggestion for just painting it would seem the best way to go and, on a stage, looks fine. Have you considered, however, that a footstep onto either a veneer or painted piece of metal will possibly not sound authentic? For your 2x4, if strength is not a problem, just hollow out the reverse side of a real 2x4 by dadoing it on a table saw. It wouldn't weigh much more than your metal 2x4 and would be much cheaper to make.
Dave |
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