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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » Shuffled not Stirred » » What do you use to get mem decks back to the one card on top? (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

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Frankm6
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Hi all-
What kind of card or technique do you use for your mem decks to get them back to the one card on top- Sh##ts, corner sh##ts, breather etc?
In AronsonŐs new dvd he said he shaves a little off the side of the one card. Any thoughts on this, how do you cut it and how to use it? What do you use, how do you use it and most importantly, why do you use that method?
Thanks for the advice and the help in advance,
--Frank
evolve629
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If the order of the deck is not important, then personally I'd cut short (the top) mem key card and then spray some roughing fluid or Testors dull cote on the very first top card that's in contact with the mem key card as well as the mem key card. It's easy to separate them as one card is cut short. You can do false shuffle and the two cards should remain in the same order. Just a thought.
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leftytheclown
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Dennis Loomis showed me (I think maybe someone told him) his method. He uses a fine fingernail file and rubs it back and forth over the edge and grinds a shallow groove in the center portion on the edges at both ends. Mike Close trims a pretty deep half moon in the center portion of each edge. I like the Loomis method better.
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sgrossberg
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Frank - the shaving of an edge of the card has been around for awhile. Indeed, you can find mention of it in the Steve Forte materials and on the DVD's by Richard Turner and Sal Piacente, for example. Candidly, I find the breather the most reliable and only use the in-stripper for plastic cards (e.g. Copag). - Scott
Frankm6
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When you guys talk about the 'edge' are you talking about the long edge of the card or the short edge? If you are talking about the long edge (this is the one I've never seen) do you just cut from the center to restore the order? I think the long edge is what Aronson was talking about on the DVD.

Also, evolve629, why rough the first two cards how does that help?

Thanks for the help guys and gals,

Frank
sgrossberg
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Frank - you use the long edge. While you only need to do this procedure on one of the edges, I actually do it to both sides (safer for me that way). It is then handled like a normal str****r d**k - the portion you grasp is just a little different. There is somewhat of a knack to getting the "feel."

For what you want to do, the breather is simpler and affords you great flexibility in handling IMO.
TheAmbitiousCard
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I'd go with the breather for the simple reason that it's an impromptu setup.
No sense in getting used to requiring a nail file, grinder, lathe, drill press, or roughing fluid.


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Frankm6
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My on issue with breathers, shorts, and corner shorts, is they kind of screw up the farro shuffling. I use the memmonica stack so there is lots of farroing(is this a word?) into different stack orders. Do you have this problem? This is why I am interested in side shaving. It would seem to me that this would still allow the ends to farro well.

Thanks again,

Frank #2.5
sgrossberg
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Frank - I use faros with breathers all the time. If it remains an issue for you, perhaps you could check into Nash's Infinity Cr**p, instead. Similar to a breather but more concentrated towards the center of the card.
landmark
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I use a corner crimp on the bottom card. I find it lasts longer and is a little more sure for me than a breather.


Jack Shalom
Dennis Loomis
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Thanks to my friend Lefty for mentioning the work I put into a card. I put it into the short ends of the top card. (Jack of Spades in the Aronson Stack.) While the work is fairly fine, I like the fact that if I glance down at the top of the deck I can see the slight scallop and I know for sure that I'm "home."

The term nail file suggests the metal objects, but I much prefer the softer and sometimes fatter files of a heavy foam material. The usually come with a fairly coarse grit on one side and a fine grit on the other. I use the coarse side for the initial work, and then finish it off with the fine side.

Frank is right that you need to carry something to do this work, but I have two comments. First, when I open a new deck I immediately put my work in and I'm usually at home where I have easy access to my files. Second, you can find these in drug stores and department stores almost anywhere for a very small cost. So, if you do find yourself without a file it's not hard to pick one up. I keep one in my van, one in my close up case, and one or more at home.

Dennis Loomis

P.S. With a scallop short, the corners are unaffected and so faro work is not impeded in any way.
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T. Joseph O'Malley
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I'll add that the nice thing about having a card with a breather, scallop or corner work put in is that you can use it for other effects outside of the context of memdeck work. These days I c.short and b.crimp the 9 of diamonds...

As for the availability of tools for putting this sort of work in, you can easily carry it in your coat if you're that worried about having an impromptu situation pop up where you don't have your own deck. Also many people have nail scissors or emory boards in the cupboard in their bathroom - I made good use of this fact a few weeks back when some one shoved their ratty old deck my way. I'd spotted it on the shelf earlier, took a card out and headed to the bathroom, so I was good to go already when handed the deck.

God forbid that anyone ever finds out how much prep work is done by magicians in the bathroom...
tjo'
Frankm6
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Would love to get the real details on how people scallop the sides of the card and how they make their breather card. The way I make my breather is by running my nail on the back of the card with two fingers on face, making a gully diagonally from corner to corner and then doing the same thing going diagonally the other way. Any help or directions to a reference for scallops or breathers would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Frank
Frankm6
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Also Dennis,

I was thinking about putting a punch into the top card, right corners, so with just a feel I would know if I was home.

Thanks,
Frank
kerpa
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On a slightly related subject - anyone ever mark the backs with the stack number?
kerpa
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Jim Mullen
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Previously I used a short corner as recommended by Don Alan and others. Don used a fingernail clipper to shorten the two index corners. However, the altered card can present a problems when using the deck for multiple effects. The comments on Faro problems are probably correct. Now I put a crimp on the non-index corner of the bottom card (when the deck is held in the dealing position). This is easy to apply with the left pinkie (for right handed magicians). This crimp is explained in many places including Bill Malone's DVD giving his great version of "Sam the Bellhop."
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Dennis Loomis
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To Frankm6,
I do use punch work for for some things (Histed Heisted Deck, Eyeless in Gaza Set Up) but it wouldn't replace the scallop short because you can't quickly and easily find the punch work when the card is lost in the deck. But, using it in addition to the scallop short is a great idea and I'm going to try it. Knowing that you're "home" by feel would have advantages.

If you're looking for a good punch, Jim Riser makes excellent one. In a pinch, however, you can put punch work into a deck with just a needle or thumbtack.

Dennis Loomis
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Frankm6
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Dennis thanks for your response. ThatŐs what I meant: Work( sh**t, corner sh**t etc.) on the bottom card of the stack and a punch on the top card under the thumb would be a good combo. It would mean you didnŐt have to be so careful with your cuts, just cut and if you missed it, cut again with out ever looking down at the deck.

Dennis do you have problems with the scallop sh**t and farro shuffling?

Thanks,
Frank
Dennis Loomis
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To Frankm6,
I don't do Faro work personally. But Mike Close says that the scallop cut does not interfer. He should know.

I do use a combination of scallop work and punch work in the deck for the Stephen Minch Eyeless in Gaza routine. For that, the locator card I use has scallop work on all sides of a deck. That's because I need to to be able to cut that card to either the top or bottom during the routine. In addition, I start out in Aronson Stack Order. The original Minch version uses an 18 card set-up devised for his routine, but I found I can do the whole thing with the first 18 cards in the Aronson stack. The only reason for that change is that I can reset easily since I already know the Aronson stack.

Dennis Loomis
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leftytheclown
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Not in the same league as Mike Close, but I do use a faro and the "Loomis" scallop doesn't affect the faro at all. I usually scallop the "one" card (JS in Aronson's)for all my decks, just in case I want to use the stack. Also, if you are into mem decks, check out the Mem Deck solitare on Dennis' web page to get familiar with the stack.
Lefty (aka) Sterling Dare
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