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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » The workshop » » I'm still trying to make a wood bucket.... (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

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Bryan Gilles
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As the title states, I'm still trying to make a wooden bucket! I can't seem to get my formula right as the angles are off and when all the pieces are lined up, it is still shaped more like a cylinder than a pale...

Does anyone have shop plans with the formula to make these right? I cut each slat 10" long. The top of each slat is 3.5" and tapers to 2.5" at the bottom. They are each cut at a 30-degree angle to complete the whole 360 degrees need to form a bucket. I was hoping the half inch decline from each side would be carried out through the final outcome... giving the shape of a pale. I don't know if I've built my jig wrong or if I have my math wrong... Anyway, I am using 12 slats of wood and was hoping to make the bucket 10" tall...

Anyone with experience on this subject, please respond or PM me... I'd greatly appreciate it!

-Bryan Gilles
Michael Baker
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Bryan Gilles
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Michael,

Have you made any from this book? I orderd it a while back at Barnes and Noble... I thumbed through it in the store and didn't purchase it as I though it wasn't what I needed as it seemed to be a whittler's approach to making the buckets... I'm making mine with a tablesaw and routing the edges with a 30-degree glue joint cutter... The ones featured in this book seemed to be rough looking and the way they made up for the not-so precise angles that were cut, was by filling the buckets with hot water and letting them swell... I'd like to have sleek lines and possibly use firmica or laminents on the outside of each bucket...

-Bryan
ClintonMagus
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If you are making your own because you need a different size, you might try looking at a yard and garden supply to see what sorts of wooden bucket-style planters they have. Disasseble it, measure the angles, then scale it up or down, according to your needs.

Here's a link to a video that might be of some assistance:

http://www.vinestreetworks.com/bucket.html

Amos McCormick
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Bryan Gilles
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Interesting video!

I like the idea of using one found in a garden shop and scaling it down... I'll give that a try...

-Bryan Gilles
George Ledo
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The idea of studying a a pre-made bucket is a good one. These things are more complex than they look.

A couple of years ago I designed and built three large barrels for a production. Cast members were going to be jumping in and out of them quickly, so the barrels had to look like real barrels, be so wide but only so high, strong and lightweight, blah blah blah. If it hadn't been for AutoCAD, I'd probably still be trying to figure them out!
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acmp
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Hi,

If your 12 slats are 3.5" to 2.5" you get a bucket with a top diameter of about 13" and a bottom diameter of about 9.5" {PI x Diameter =circumference so circumference / PI= diameter (3.5"*12)/3.1415=13.36" }

If you know what dimensions you are after then why not just work out the taper to suit. Of am I being a bit off the mark here?
acmp<><

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CJRichard
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Have you considered buying one?

There's a bucket here: James Townsend It's 14 inches high and it probably tapers the wrong way for you.


This place:Blockade Runner has everything under the sun.*

*Turns out they don't have wooden buckets. . . Should have checked first.
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Bryan Gilles
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That's exactly what I'm looking for! You are correct though... it does taper the wrong direction... It may be perfect for measurements... I have a hard time dropping the $80.00 to purchase something that will be torn down... Know what I mean?

-Bryan
leapinglizards
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There are wood workers sites that sell router bit sets specifically for this purpose. I am not sure I can put my hands on them at this second, but some web searching might do the trick.
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Marvello
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Not sure if these are tapered enough for you:
http://www.rptrading.biz/WoodenBuckets.html

here is another - scroll to the bottom:
http://amishshop.com/cgi-local/hazel.cgi......orII.htm

The Maine State Prison has a great woodworking shop and store in Thomaston that is open to the public. I seem to recall seeing wood buckets there. You may want to e-mail them, since I know they also do custom work, at very reasonable prices.
e-mail: prison.showroom@maine.gov phone: 207-354-9237


Here are plans to make your own:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=5605

here are quick instructions I found for a sloping/tapered bucket (not sure how helpful they are - but here ya go):

Quote:
There isn't a magic formula to say what the angle is as you have to set these sort of woodworking jobs geometerically (draw it/set it out). I set out on a piece of plywood or white hardboard. What you are trying to do is to develop the staves, wooden pieces that form the sides of the bucket. A lot depends on what angle is required for the bucket so you may have to draw the circles besides each other but if you can you want to draw the smaller inside of the bigger one. The first thing to do is to create a centre point on the sheet materal making sure you can draw the big circle on. Using a trammel, draw the outer circle (open end of bucket), then using a rule measure the thickness of timber from the circle inwards. Set up the trammel to this point and draw a circle. I should think that for a bucket you would want the staves to be approxmately 18mm (3/4") thick. Next, draw the inner circle (bottom of the bucket) then using a rule measure the thickness of timber from the circle inwards. Set up the trammel to this point and draw a circle. Using a protractor mark points off. I cant tell you what degree to use as a lot depends upon size of the bucket but I would start by trying 20 degree intervals. don't do all, just do a few, if it doesn't look right then you can increase up to 30, or decrease to 10 degree intervals. Basically the smaller the staves in width the more circular the bucket will look. Taking a long rule, line up the degree mark to the centre point then draw the line through both circles to the centre point. Its only at this stage whether you know if you need to change the degree intervals. Remember to do a few then if you are happy do the entire circle. Once done you can count the exact number of staves you will need to make the bucket, remember to do a few extra just in case.

Next you have to draw a part of the bucket showing the length between the circles and the sloping sides. Using a square mark a line off one edge near to the drawing. Draw a parrallel to the edge going both sides of the square line. With a trammel go to the slope side and set up points where slope insects horrizontal lines representing the cirlces. Mark this along the squared line. Draw a parrallel line to the edge through the marked point. Next using a compass bysect the biggest stave end width (outer circle) then using a ruler align this point to the centre point and draw a line through both circles. Using the compass set it up to half the distance of the biggest stave end then with the point on the square line and mark either side on the nearest parrallel line. On the furthest parrallel line repeat but using half of the smallest end stave width. Finally draw a line through the marks. You should have the true shape of the taper stave.
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http://jas-townsend.com/index.php?cPath=31

What you are trying to do actualy requires an aprenticeship. It's expensive, butworth the money. Just buy one.
Joe Mansfield
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Quote:
On 2006-06-12 07:33, leapinglizards wrote:
There are wood workers sites that sell router bit sets specifically for this purpose. I am not sure I can put my hands on them at this second, but some web searching might do the trick.

Here is a link to a router bit to make buckets.
http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=5503
hugmagic
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This is not an easy project which is why most manufacturers have taken this item out of their standard line.

I have made my own barrel (for a barrel to botania). I used 1/4" oak and cut them to slat width. Because the upper and lower circumferences of the barrel are smaller there is a taper on both ends of the slats. There also need to be a slight taper on each edge ( maybe 10 or 15 degrees. There are a couple of ways to do that 1) is a belt sander to make the taper on each end and then do the side tapes last. You can use a belt sander for the end tapers and then a joiner for the sides or a router.

Basically since I was working with 2' slats, I took the circumference and divided it by the number of slats. Then to make the smaller diameter you do the same thing and that gives you amount of taper you need to put on each slat.

If you need to bend the wood as I did, that is another whole story.
Richard
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Bryan Gilles
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Thanks for all the help and great advice guys! I'm not looking to make a barrel though... just a simple bucket with straight lines, like this one:

http://www.daytonamagic.com/Stage%20Magic/STG14.htm
or this one...
http://www.houseofenchantment.com/pages/duck%20bucket.html
or even this one:
http://www.morrisseymagic.com/stage12.htm

I would just purchase one of these (as pictured from the links), but I figured with my wood working ability, I could make an ellegant looking bucket with brass trim just as I desire... Any ideas? I want to be able to make a few of them... One that is 7" (for a suitcase act) another that is 10 or 15" and a final one that is 22" tall...
Michael Baker
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If you get it right, for everyone's sake, make some plans!
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Bryan Gilles
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I hear that...LOL!!! I'll be the first to share them as well!
leapinglizards
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That router bit set should do it.

The slats should only me MAYBE an inch wider at top than bottom, and even that is a bit much. The hardest part is clamping and glusing the thing up.
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ClintonMagus
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If you use spline and groove joints, glue-up should be a lot easier.

Amos McCormick
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Michael Baker
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After the first one, take the inside diameter measurements, and design a gluing jig. It would sure speed up production later.

~michael
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