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leapinglizards
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LOL... Patience Mac. Everything got delayed so not sure when I will get to start. But I will share.
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Blair Marshall
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Thanks LL, that's what I love about magic!

Blair Marshall
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Dennis Loomis
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Thought I'd thow in a cautionary note appropriate to this thread and to share a quote from Charlie Reynolds. Charlie is one of magic's great thinkers and has participated the the creation of so many great stage illusions. He once referred to a particular illusion act as "Magic from the land of thick tables."

I think his point bears thinking about. There are many wonderful illusions that depend on deceptive bases. But an illusion act or show should not overuse any one principle. So while it's great fun for all of us to kick around these ideas about how to create the most deceptive bases, just keep in mind that you don't want to overuse bases in your act.

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George Ledo
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Blair, as far as covering the pipe legs, I think Dennis has the right idea. But you can also make up a wood "shell" (say four pieces of 1/2" ply) to slide over each tube. I love the idea of turned legs, but I wouldn't use them unless the base itself has a reason to have turned legs -- like it's a period table or something similar. Otherwise, as Dennis said, people will look at the legs and the base a little too much.
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BRodgers
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These are all wonderful ideas. I never would have thought to just cover an existing leg.
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Blair Marshall
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I thought of even doing a very light square aluminum tube ie 3" x 3" etc. Flatten them out at top, sort of a lip around, and attach to the underside of the base with velcro. This was just a thought. Could be plain, polished, decorated, whatever!

I have even thought if it was for a Temple design, to use an Indian sort of fabric in a tube, again velcroed.

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Zazz
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I built mine using Dennis' idea of pipe legs and keeping them painted flat black. I used 1 1/2" pipe on mine. I was toying around with using 1" pipe and slipping chrome sleeves over the pipes but decided not to. The sleeves are about $6 each and could be found in the plumbing section at most hardware stores. They are actually under-sink drain pipes. Very light weight.

Dan
Christian Illusionist
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This has been a great thread with much information added (so much so that one reason for my post is to keep it from vanishing amongst the pages).

I for one can't wait for leapinglizards report and pictures on the fiberglass base project whenever he's able to post it.

I have a question that might be basic, but I thought I would ask anyhow...

In coating the inside of a base with fabric, how does one go about covering the entire inside of the base without having badly attached areas where it might be harder to reach. Also, what type of glue would you recommend for attaching fabric to wood or fiberglass?
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M-Illusion
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In areas which can be difficult to reach, I have used a dowel or something flatter (I.E. aluminum flatbar, paint stick, or ruler) to push the fabric down. I have found 3M Spray 77 to be a suitable adhesive. I am sure others will also post useful information.
Blair Marshall
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You may not want to use fabric, some of my bases are made of plastic sheet (totally) but even if I did not make the base of this, a piece inside really helps whoever is in there to move around!!!

Blair Marshall
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Magic Kevin
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I like the idea of the wood turned and stained leg with a hole through the middle, especially if it matches the illusion on top. For example,

Quote:
This is my first base. It was built using The Dennis Loomis Dollhouse Illusion plans. I built it out of 1/2" plywood.

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff127......85-1.jpg


Wood turned legs stained the same as on the house would look nice IMO. (Wonderful Job, by the way!) Also, this is one great thread! Keep it up!!
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makeupguy
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If you have access to a large format vaccuform.. (thankfully, I do).. you could make a base out of 3/8 ABS plastic.. that would be nearly indestructable.. adn can be made in formats up to 4' by 10 '!
MagicJeremy
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Ok heres a question I have, since I just got done building my first base to go with a custom prop.

The base from the bottom to the base where the legs are, with a 2 inch support on the bottom (aluminum of course) to the upper step is exactly eight inches. I have to have at least nine inches of space in there becuase of my chest build.

So, if my base is eight inches from the bottom to the upper step, would it still look deceptive, if I added 2 inches on the top step which rests inside the 6 foot box sitting on top it.

Everyone talks about a bases depth, does this inlcude space in the floor of the prop on top of the base, or jus the base itself.
mvmagic
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Quote:
On 2009-06-16 02:28, MagicJeremy wrote:
So, if my base is eight inches from the bottom to the upper step, would it still look deceptive, if I added 2 inches on the top step which rests inside the 6 foot box sitting on top it.


that's kinda hard to say without seeing the prop. Sure the 6 foot box definately draws attention to it and the height of it visually downscales the thickness of the table on which it rests. One factor is also your size in relation to the box once you stand inside it (with 6 feet I assume you'd be standing, correct me if I am wrong). Much depends on how the 8 inches is visually divided between different elements. Post a pic of the prop so we can take a look and base our comments on it.
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James FX
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Hi Leapinlizzards, I really enjoyed this thread and was wondering if you ever got to working on your fiberglass base?

James
Kyle^Ravin
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Wow... I love this thread...this is what threads should beon the Café... Constructive!
cardfreakhk
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There is a base selling in auction which you can do two illusions. Seems great.
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James FX
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I agree, I think this is a great idea Smile To be able to use one "utility base" for multiple illusions would save on storage space, not to mention save on cash! But I probably wouldn't want to use it more than twice in the same show. In fact, I would even consider changing the overall look of the base for the second illusion using some quick and simple ideas.

I think the simple 2.5” square metal leg shown on the first illusion can be given a facelift on the second illusion by adding some architectural detail with a decorative corner brace where the top 6” of the leg meets the bottom of the base; it’s at this 90 degree corner where most bracing is fastened. These triangular corner spaces can be decorated with a design shape and color that would best fit the look or style of the second prop. Maybe simple triangles for a more modern geometric prop, or arches for a more classic prop, or even something more elaborate like “spider webbing” for something more sinister Smile You’ve seen them.

I have one idea that employs the use of those large, thin sheets of magnets used to cover unused floor registers/vents in the home (for energy conservation) sold at the big box stores. It’s the same stock used for refrigerator magnets only in this case the non-magnet side is white vinyl. These sheets can be cut to your desired shape with a pair of scissors or hobby knife, and can be colored to match your prop or to match the base trim. Eight 6” x 6” wedges would be needed, one for each outside leg surface. To provide a straight “machined” edge to your finished trim, each wedge should retain the sheet’s factory cut 90 degree angle in the upper corner with your design or shape cut out on the opposite corner. Design each wedge as desired. With each piece now completed, lay two pieces magnet side up on a flat surface so that they mirror one another with the flat edges touching. With clear packing tape, tape the entire seam to fabricate a hinge. This will hasten the application of your new corner braces, four “corner posts” will be applied rather than 8 individual facings.

The end result would be 4 decorative corner braces that can be quickly applied offstage by an assistant, ready for round 2 of your utility base Smile This is just one idea. I’m sure there are many ways to accomplish the same goal, let’s share some ideas!

James
adequate1
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Who, in your opinion, builds the best bases? In particular, if I needed a custom built base, who should I turn to?
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