|
|
Go to page [Previous] 1~2~3~4~5~6 | ||||||||||
andrelimantara Special user Surabaya, Indonesia 871 Posts |
I like the wand a lot
it's beautiful Andre
"Good performance comes from good practice, Great performance comes from the heart - Andre Limantara"
|
|||||||||
Pete Biro 1933 - 2018 18558 Posts |
I hate to "tip" this, but you can find wand tips, silver, and gold, engraved, beautiful ones, online via google.
STAY TOONED... @ www.pete-biro.com
|
|||||||||
magic-dabra Regular user Knoxville, TN 153 Posts |
Quote:
On 2008-02-04 12:46, Pete Biro wrote: I'm sorry Pete. I can't seem to get anything useful. I tried "magic wand tips" and "wand tips" and neither one of those gave me much. What exactly are you putting in Google. |
|||||||||
Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
I just now read this topic, so please allow me to make a few comments...
First off, thanks to several of you for the kind words. I'm glad you like the work. Now, to "tip" a few secrets on making these things... There is an inherent issue with wand tips regarding wood to wood vs. metal to wood. When I make a wood to wood wand, I turn the shaft, which will be end drilled to accept the tips. The tips are then turned from a single piece, with the space between them turned down to a smaller diameter. These will serve as "pins" that will fit into the holes drilled in the ends of the shaft. The waste at either end of these tips is left on for now. The tips are then glued to the shaft and clamped using a bar or pipe clamp. It is crucial that all three pieces be perfectly aligned. Once dry, the wand is re-chucked (using the waste ends left on the tips), and any discrepancies are turned out, giving a very seamless joint. This is why a very good alignment is necessary. Otherwise the wand will whip wildly in the lathe and you'll never be able to touch a turning tool to it safely. The wand is then sanded and polished before being removed from the lathe. The waste ends are then cut away, the ends finished, and the wand re-polished. With metal to wood you don't have the luxury of going back to the lathe a second time, after the tips are glued to the shaft. The wood shaft must be turned to the EXACT diameter of the metal tips. For that reason alone, they should be priced higher. The precision is quite demanding when you turn by hand. They are also attached opposite how the wood to wood wands are made. The ends of the shaft are turned down to become the pins, and the metal tips, whether brass or whatever, are end drilled to accept them. This also means that the pins must be a very close fit into the holes where they will go. Too large and they won't fit at all. Too small and you have too much play and may not get a nice alignment. Drilling out the metal tips is also necessary because solid brass tips, even 1.5" long would be unreasonably heavy, to the point of becoming dangerous to spin the wand. With a 1/2" inch diameter tip, the bore is 3/8", leaving a 1/16" wall. It runs 2/3 of the way into the tip. So for a 1.5" tip, the bore would be 1" deep. This makes a nice heavy tip that isn't so heavy as to become a weapon. There are also issues regarding the type(s) of glue to be used, but I'm not going to "tip" all my secrets! You guys can experiment a bit with that. I'm not sure about Bill's comments regarding the different types of Ebony. Gaboon Ebony is the blacker of the Ebonies, and is considerably more expensive. I have had stock that ran from almost solid black to having light speckels or streaks in it. Polishing it with Carnauba Wax brings out the blackness even more, just because of the shine, but I never use any stains or dyes on Ebony. I think that's criminal. Gaboon Ebony is fairly brittle, and subject to splintering or even shattering if constantly smacked against your table. But considering the cost of such a wand, anyone who did use it to smack things, probably deserves to break it. Maccassar Ebony has a much more pronounced pattern of blacks, browns and tans configured in a rather nice pattern of streaks, veins and swirls. For certain projects, it is absolutely beautiful wood. But, for anyone wanting a wand that is as close to black as you can get, it is not going to do that. African Blackwood is also very black, as Bill said. I have not used it, so I am not familiar with how well it turns. I'd suspect it is just fine, though. It is a bit less expensive than Ebony, but not much. There is also another Ebony that I became familiar with in the past year... Black & White Ebony. It has very pronounced swirls of black against an almost fossil ivory-like yellow-white. I made an Ebony wand with B&W Ebony tips for Bill. It can be seen on his Cups and Balls Museum site. This stuff turns beautifully. The shavings peel away like ribbons of chocolate. It is very expensive wood, so you won't see me using much of it, for anything other than commissioned pieces. ~michael
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
|||||||||
fortasse Inner circle 1201 Posts |
As a matter of interest, how many of you out there generally use a wand in your C&B performances......or does it depend on whether you're performing standing up or seated?
Fortasse |
|||||||||
vpatanio Special user 515 Posts |
Fortasse,
I always use my wand for the cups and balls, I think it does a lot for my routine. P.S. (I know this doesn’t belong here but since Michael Baker was participating in this post…) Michael, I was searching through some posts regarding multiplying billiard balls and came across your impeccable set of billiard balls you made. It was so inspiring, that I picked up a few 1 ¾” wooden balls and am attempting to make a set for myself. Unfortunately, I don’t know how to make the [ so I am gonna use one from an old set I have. Thanks for showing us new magicians that this art is limitless. -Vinny |
|||||||||
Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Vinny,
If you are referring to the balls I made that look like real pool balls, they are not hard to do, but do require a lot of patience. If you can watch paint dry, then most of that battle is licked! If you want more info, just let me know. ~michael
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
|||||||||
GeorgeG Special user Thousand Oaks, CA 977 Posts |
African Blackwood is also very black, as Bill said. I have not used it, so I am not familiar with how well it turns
Colin Rose's Victorian and Bergeron Noir Collections are all turned from African Blackwood. |
|||||||||
Bill Palmer Eternal Order Only Jonathan Townsend has more than 24312 Posts |
Blackwood is a key ingredient in bagpipes. So, if you really hate the pipes, buy magic wands made of blackwood.
BTW, Michael made me a dandy wand.
"The Swatter"
Founder of CODBAMMC My Chickasaw name is "Throws Money at Cups." www.cupsandballsmuseum.com |
|||||||||
vpatanio Special user 515 Posts |
Michael,
Yes the ones that looked like real pool balls are the ones I am referring to. I just applied my second coat of poly and tomorrow, depending on how they look, I'll either leave them or do a third coat. I'll post pics in the Workshop forum when they are complete. I would love to know how you made those ['s. Thanks for the wand construction tips, I'll probably toy around with wood tips when my billiard ball set is complete. -Vinny |
|||||||||
Ivan Kiddlars New user 18 Posts |
Pete, I am stiking out as well. Can you give some search terms or even some links?
Quote:
On 2008-02-04 19:51, magic-dabra wrote: |
|||||||||
snushy Veteran user 338 Posts |
Years ago, Guy Camirand used to offer a wand he called the "Ammar Wand." It was ebony with real silver tips, perfectly weighted, and came in an elegant velvet bag. I bought one from him, and still use it now, nearly 20 years later.
Nothing I've seen since comes close. Larry Zaslow
YOU KNOW WHY YOU DON'T SEE? BECAUSE YOU DON'T WATCH! - SLYDINI
|
|||||||||
RogueMD Regular user 133 Posts |
Interesting thread considering how important a "symbol" the wand is to a magician.
I paid little attention to it for many years but have since become quite interested in "classic" magic...largely parlour type. As such the wand is an extremely useful tool. I have no experience with types of wands...I have one that I started using simply because it was what I had at home. To add to the discussion at hand; I have I "believe" a Johnson wand, apparently very well made and heavy, that comes apart in the middle at a screw type joint. A useful property that I found by happenstance is a "M@#$%^" at one end for chop type routines. I do like this feature and this wand; I'm curious if others have found it to their liking as it has not been mentioned in this thread. 2 cents worth...spend wisely. MagicMD |
|||||||||
Bill Palmer Eternal Order Only Jonathan Townsend has more than 24312 Posts |
Sounds like the Johnson wand to me.
"The Swatter"
Founder of CODBAMMC My Chickasaw name is "Throws Money at Cups." www.cupsandballsmuseum.com |
|||||||||
magicorik Loyal user Italia 203 Posts |
Quote:
Anywho, your opinions, both positive and negative are greatly appreciated. http://www.themagiccafe.com/forums/viewt......orum=115 This is my review of a great wand. |
|||||||||
raywitko Special user western Pa 527 Posts |
Quote: Just read this post. When did you purchase your wand? When we first took over Tabman USA we made the wands the way Tabby made them. Brass tips weren't flush with the wood. I wasn't satisfied with that so started making them flush with the wood. We now make the wands any size, style, and wood customer wants. Please email me your shipping address and type of wand you want and I'll be glad to make and send you another with my compliments. And thanks everyone else for your kind words.
On 2008-01-30 04:44, Mr. Muggle wrote: Ray
Sometimes it seems there are more than one of me.
Tabman USA magicdmv email me at [email]fursclass@magicdmv.com[/email] |
|||||||||
professorwhut Inner circle Posts R US sold me 1353 Posts |
WOW.
I just got in the Ebony Bill Palmer style wand and The regular Bill palmer style wand. FANTASTIC, I LOVE THEM! First of all these guys emailed me and asked if I wanted the regular style wand weighted on the tips and a bit longer, what NICE folks. I really appreciated that. I could not be happier, these wands are beautiful. Thanks Tabman.
After much soul searching about a signature, I decided not to have one.
TG Pop [aka ProfessorWhut] |
|||||||||
Cacoal New user Lewiston NY 70 Posts |
Check out http://www.roykueppers.com Roy makes beautiful wands and I own several of his machined coin pieces. I've alway been happy with everything I've received from him. Good luck
Jason |
|||||||||
ftlum Special user Roseville, CA 730 Posts |
Ray (over at Tabman) did a beautiful job with the ebony Bill Palmer-style wand I requested. I don't think these were being made at the time and I had some very specific ideas about the materials and dimensions. It came out perfectly! I'd highly recommend them .
- Frank |
|||||||||
mcmc Veteran user 310 Posts |
My friend recently started making some wands, at my request. His workmanship is impeccable, and he's put a lot of thought into not only the aesthetics of these wands, but also their solid build and strength (with input from me based on intentional as well as inadvertent stress tests!):
http://www.themagiccafe.com/forums/viewt......um=113&4 Here's a teaser pic, a close-up of the ends of the recent batch I got from him. They are: - African blackwood with highly polished aluminum tips - Koa with quartered wood ring and black delrin tips - Cocobolo with polished brass tips and accent ring - African blackwood with white delrin tips - All african blackwood with double aluminum rings Click here to view attached image. |
|||||||||
The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » Ever so sleightly » » Wand opinions. (1 Likes) | ||||||||||
Go to page [Previous] 1~2~3~4~5~6 |
[ Top of Page ] |
All content & postings Copyright © 2001-2024 Steve Brooks. All Rights Reserved. This page was created in 0.05 seconds requiring 5 database queries. |
The views and comments expressed on The Magic Café are not necessarily those of The Magic Café, Steve Brooks, or Steve Brooks Magic. > Privacy Statement < |