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critter
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Now Nips, am I correct that those numbers in the SS correspond to the nickel content? So they will be softer but less prone to corrosion?
"The fool is one who doesn't know what you have just found out."
~Will Rogers
thegreatnippulini
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No, the nickel content has nothing to do with hardness in steel or the numeration. Carbon content is what makes steel hard and is dictated by the last two digits of the series number. For example, GM coil springs are made of 1060 SAE steel. This means it has 0.60% carbon in its content. The 316L steel I use for BH nails has less than 0.16% carbon. The main ingredient to stainless that gives it its trademark shine is chromium. The chromium (when polished) forms an atomic layer of chromium oxide. This layer is what keeps the underlying steel from corroding. Nickel is more for show. Molybdenum, manganese, silica, sulfur and phosphorous are the most commonly added elements put into steel, each in its own ratio to produce different steels. Each grade of steel has its characteristics designed by metallurgists to withstand specific environments and uses. Pure iron hasn't been made commercially since the late 1800's.
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
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adam christopher
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Harley have you figured out how to use your purchase from the Garbage Joint at CBC yet?

Adam
critter
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Ok. Thanks.
"The fool is one who doesn't know what you have just found out."
~Will Rogers
The Village Idiots
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I have a question perhaps one of the many metal workers could answer. If I bought a stainless steel rapier and lets say it is longer than I want. How difficult would it be to cut it shorter and file a new point? Would it discolor the blade?

Thanks for your help.

Will
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Some are made idiots.

Some have idiocy thrust upon them.
Harley Newman
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It's easy. Just do it.
“You can’t depend on your eyes when your imagination is out of focus” -Mark Twain

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critter
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I have redone many knives like you're talking about. Tip breaks off, you just file a new one. It's probably the same with swords.
"The fool is one who doesn't know what you have just found out."
~Will Rogers
thegreatnippulini
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Discoloration comes from overheating the steel from rapid cutting. This ruins the temper. Seeing as how the blade isn't going to be used as a tool, loss of temper isn't an issue. A metal cutting bandsaw should do the job without causing the rainbow of temper color. If you use a high speed abrasive cut off disc you will overheat the steel. If that happens, simply sand it down to remove it. Filing might not be the way to go. If all else fails, or if you don;t have access to good metalworking equipment you could send it to me to be worked on. PM me for details.
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
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The Village Idiots
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Thank you very much for the advice. Would a hack saw or jig saw be as effective as a Bandsaw? I don't own one of those. I had thought of using a cutting disk, glad I didn't.

When I was smoothing out the rapier I learned with I used a hand file and then smoothed it more with a dryml and some buffing compound.

I know the discoloring wouldn't be seen from the audience but I would see it.

Regards,
Will
Some are born idiots.

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Some have idiocy thrust upon them.
thegreatnippulini
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Jigsaws are used mostly for (thin) wood, without a coolant system running with it cutting metal would break the blade. A hacksaw will work just fine. Use a sturdy bench vise to hold the sword in place, make long slow cuts, use your whole body with each stroke. Lift away the blade when pulling on the backstroke otherwise you will wreck the teeth of the saw. Get a belt sander. I have a variety of bench mount belt sanders, they can get pricey. Low budget (Red Stuart) innovation: get a cheap hand held belt sander at a flea market, clamp it upside down onto a benchtop. Voila! Now you have the perfect tool for smoothing down swords for swallowing. Keep a bucket of water nearby to dip the sword into every pass or two, this will keep the blade from getting hot and discoloring.... also keeps the metal from burning your fingers!
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
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The Village Idiots
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Right on! I have a vise on a sturdy bench, a hack saw and a belt sander. I thought I would use an old bicycle tube to keep from scuffing the blade in the vise. Thank you Nippulini, I appreciate your help.

I bought the new rapier today and await it's arrival. I want to go for 25 inches but the rapier I bought is 36 inches.

This one I bought from the previously mentioned BudK. I'll let you know what I think of it when it gets here.

Will
Some are born idiots.

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Some have idiocy thrust upon them.
critter
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I just want to throw this out there.
I did shorten a ninja-to with a metal chisel.
I chiseled the end into a dual point rather than the traditional tanto-type point you usually see. (I know there's several different Japanese style points, traditionally.) After this, I filed it into shape with a hand file. Being careful not to heat it up too much.
The saw method is good too. Just throwing an alternative up for variety.
"The fool is one who doesn't know what you have just found out."
~Will Rogers
thegreatnippulini
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Yes, cutting steel with a chisel is another method for stock cutting, but it does have its disadvantages and is the "wrong way" to do things. For one, you're cutting cold hard steel with cold hard steel. When you do that, you end up ruining the chisels cutting edge. Blacksmiths have historically been cutting steel with chisels on bright HOT steel, goes through like hard clay. Then the steel has to go through several heat treatments. Todays modern cheap swords have 40 to 60 points of carbon, chisels about 80. That's where you end up with chisel damage. Smiths have the fortunate ability to put a cutting edge on just about anything, so old worn chisels can get a new life. Just out of curiousity, why did you shorten your ninja sword? Are you getting into sword swallowing?
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
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dave_matkin
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Perhaps he had had his legs shorterned and his tip started dragging on the floor? (Its a problem I have ..... well that's what I tell all the girls)

Other funny reasosn to shortern your nija swords guys?

Im sure it wont be nreat hte truth but hey its got to be done......
thegreatnippulini
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Tell 'em yer willie is 4 inches...



...from the ground!
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
http://www.greatnippulini.com
dave_matkin
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Yes bt I'm only 5 inches tall so really that is not going to be .............


far from the trught ......

very impressive .........

....... a lie when it is gragging 6 inches behind me Smile
critter
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Oh no. I have too much gag reflex. Sometimes my toothbrush scares me! It was mostly experimental. It was a cheap sword and I wanted to make it faster for iaido. I wouldn't do it to one of my good swords.
"The fool is one who doesn't know what you have just found out."
~Will Rogers
dave_matkin
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So having a shorter sword makes for a shorer labido?? Does that make the whole process a lot faster?

You know my wife moans at me - tells me I am a crap lover...... I don't think she is qualified to make that decision in one minute fifteen seconds!
critter
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Clears the sheath faster. Take that how you like:) Also makes it lighter.
Changes the balance too, but I actually like my swords a bit "pommel heavy."
"The fool is one who doesn't know what you have just found out."
~Will Rogers
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