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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Leland,
That is interesting about the Fein tool (assuming you mean the Multi-Master). I saw those on an infomercial and was very interested. Why didn't you like it? ~michael
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Leland Stone Inner circle 1204 Posts |
I think the Multi-Master is a new tweak on the basic Fein detail sander I used. Like all such products, it moved the triangular pad in an arc, making it useless for the corner/confined space sanding for which it was pitched. The resulting abrasion made a consistent pattern, rather than a random one as with orbital sanders, and this leaves marks.
The reciprocating action of the tool was -- for me -- just too oddball to get used to working. No, that lack of comfort with that recip action doesn't account for the arc marks The die-cut sheets were another dedicated consumable I had to purchase and stock (I was already buying abrasives of varying grit in standard sheet form, belt form, one or two other die cuts and round tubular form...adding the triangular shapes just got to be too much). While we're on the topic of bygone tools, the Bosch mini belt sander is another one I passed along to others. Tiny work surface that just never really paid off for me. YMMV. Leland Mickey: There's a laser on my Delta compound chop saw -- and it's the ONLY way to cut with a chop saw! I bought the saw for a crown moulding job and it PAID FOR ITSELF on that job! Love it -- the laser sight sure beats sneaking up on the cut. On hand-held tools, I'm not sure about a laser attachment, tho'. |
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leapinglizards Inner circle 1263 Posts |
I LOVE my Radial Arm saw!
Leaping Lizards!!! Who knew it was possible.
<BR> <BR>www.LeapingLizardsMagic.com |
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IDOTRIX Elite user Darien,il 467 Posts |
Fein multimaster is a great tool just not for all applications like the infomercial says. there are better tools for somethings. I've had mine for 10 years. expensive replacement parts are the downside.
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EsnRedshirt Special user Newark, CA 895 Posts |
My two cents on various things:
Lasers are hit and miss. You don't really need them unless you're doing rough cuts, because a precision cut will always be along a guide. (They can be useful on chop/miter saws, though.) Of the three circular saws mentioned in the first post, I would go with either of the first two, mainly because they're both 14 amps, while the third's just 13 amps. Not a big difference, but higher amperage means more power to cut through thicker lumber. I've got a 15 amp Craftsman circular saw, and it cuts through 3/4" plywood like butter- feels like you're just dragging the saw over the top of the wood, not actually cutting it. Give table saws a second look. You can buy a pretty good portable one for under $250. If you need to cut a sheet of plywood into regular sized panels or strips, you'll get it done much faster with a table saw than a circular saw- you only have to set the table saw guide once, whereas you need to move the circular saw guide with every cut. While it is very helpful to have someone to assist when you're ripping larger lumber on a table saw, it's not strictly necessary- using a combination of sawhorses, 2x4's, and roller stands, it's easy to set up a cutting area on your driveway or workshop floor that you can move the wood around. When I'm working with heavy wood that's difficult to move by myself (3/4" birch ply, for example), I usually use a circular saw for the first few cuts, until the pieces are small enough to work with. Then it's off to the table saw for the rest of the cuts. When making cuts with a circular saw, make sure you have a good, straight guide. The factory edge of plywood is usually very straight. You can also buy metal guides and straight edges. I bought an 8'4" aluminum guide from Home Depot for about $15 that breaks in half for storage. Safety: Rules to Live By- 1) Never disable the safety mechanisms on a power tool unless it's absolutely vital for making cuts (i.e. removing the blade cover on a table saw to make a dovetail or dado joint) and always replace it as soon as you're done making that cut.) 2) Read the manual thoroughly, do exactly what it tells you, and refer back to it often. It usually tells you the proper and safe way to set up your saw and your cuts- for example, how to properly rip boards sideways on a table saw. (Doing it improperly will cause blade binding and kickback.) 3) If it doesn't feel safe, it probably isn't. Never make a cut you don't feel completely comfortable with, even if it's "just one tiny cut". The rushed cuts are the ones most likely to result in accidents. Take time to set up every cut properly, even if it takes an extra fifteen minutes to reconfigure the power tool. 4) Use all the proper safety equipment- goggles, hearing protection, work gloves, push sticks, dust filter, face shield, etc. Keep extra goggles and hearing protection around for people to use when helping. Never, ever make any cuts without those goggles on- remember, it's all fun until someone loses an eye. 4a) If you're working with a helper, take a few moments to explain the cut and make sure they know exactly what they need to do. You might want to also set up a non-verbal hand signal or two, because between the hearing protection and the power tools... In a workshop, no one can hear you scream. 5) Keep a first aid kit in easy access, and make sure everyone knows where it is. If you've got a phone in your shop, have 9-1-1 on speed dial (so you can press it with your nose, if need be.) Although you don't want any accidents to happen, it pays to be prepared if they do. -Erik
Self-proclaimed Jack-of-all-trades and google expert*.
* = Take any advice from this person with a grain of salt. |
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Magic Kevin New user Maryland - United States 77 Posts |
Erik, Wow! Soooo many GREAT helpful tips! I can't thank you and everyone else enough.
Mickey, why do you hate Ryobi? I thought some of there products are good and plus they are very feature packed for there very low prices. Although from what I've heard, a few products of theirs are not so great...? --- I figure I would update everyone on what I am thinking about on purchasing tools. I almost feel like I am over researching/analyzing the choices out there, but I have heard it stessed many times that good tools can make a huge difference. So... I will probably be purchasing this RO Sander: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stor......3+503024 I am still deciding between these two jig saws (I would greatly appreciate help here): This one seems feature packed for a low price: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pr......age=none And this one is $30 dollars less, but doesn't have the LED light or laser. It also is 1 AMP less and 200 less SPM, and does not have the scrolling feature (I don't know how useful it is). The plus side is that this saw has 3 more orbital action positions and is black and decker. Please tell me what you think. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pr......92-JS660 Lastly, the circular saws I am considering are the following: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stor......00497936 http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stor......00012830 http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pr......age=none http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pr......age=none I might not want to choose the Ridgid saw because it does not have the laser, and I think as a beginner it might help me line it up with the line even with the guide. But, other than that I really can't narrow it down anymore, so if anyone could give me any information or opinion I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Kevin
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ClintonMagus Inner circle Southwestern Southeast 3997 Posts |
In my experience, an investment in Bosch, Makita, Milwaukee, Porter Cable, and some DeWalt tools is an investment for a lifetime. Just something to consider if you're planning to be in this for the long haul.
I have owned a 14V Ryobi cordless drill for more than ten years. I bought it on sale as a backup to my 18V Bosch (20 years old) because it was relatively inexpensive. I still use them both, but I find myself using the Ryobi much more often than the Bosch. Through the years I have owned dozens of power tools, many of which I scrimped on and that have since bit the dust. Most of these were Black and Decker and Skil. I have since replaced them with better stuff, and my handheld power tools now consist of: Ryobi cordless drill Bosch cordless drill DeWalt corded drill Makita orbital sander Makita pad sander Bosch circular saw 2 Porter Cable routers 2 Porter Cable finishing nailers Porter Cable laminate trimmer Porter Cable detail sander Porter Cable biscuit joiner Bosch handheld jigsaw Bosch reciprocating saw Skil belt sander You can see where my preferences lie.
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
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MickeyPainless Inner circle California 6065 Posts |
***Mickey, why do you hate Ryobi?***
I suppose "hate" is rather strong! It's just lower end IMO and I've got to the point where I don't like checking and re checking angles or worrying about motor lugging! I'm slowly replacing most of my equipment with Jet and Delta! Whatever you do on a table saw, DO NOT even look at the Ryobi BT3000 "cutting system"! Total waste of time and money! Mick |
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thescienceworks New user 69 Posts |
I started out years ago with sears brand power tools (inexpensive and good for a beginner), and slowly replaced them over time with porter-cable tools (VERY reliable and long-lasting). I have also merged these with the Ryobi-One system, which is great for the versatility as long as you have extra batteries to keep them charged.
I also find that a hand-held router, with a 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch round over blade, is extremely helpful. It save a lot of time in sanding and finishing work, and makes your edges very straight, which is sometimes hard to do with a hand-held orbital sander. -Steve |
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ClintonMagus Inner circle Southwestern Southeast 3997 Posts |
For what it's worth, in the woodworking magazines, I have read good reviews on the Ridgid table saws.
If you get a table saw, I recommend a Freud Glue Line blade.
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
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IDOTRIX Elite user Darien,il 467 Posts |
Magic, go to craigslist and you can find some of the best tools for a third the price of new. Bosch the best jigsaw.Rigid is a very good brand and lifetime warranty on most everything including batteries. Mike
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remote guy Special user Maryland 534 Posts |
Take Mikes advice about Craigslist. I have purchased a table saw, scroll saw, router table, drill press, benchtop band saw and radial arm saw with stand and mobile base for under $700.00. The table saw alone sells for about $700.00 new.
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MickeyPainless Inner circle California 6065 Posts |
Quote:
ClintonMagus wrote: I did a fair amount of research when looking for a "contractors table saw" and bought the Ridged! At the time I was looking for a quality saw at a reasonable price that folded up for storage! I immediately upgraded to a Freud blade! So far I am very happy with it and have not had to do any tweekage to blade or fence angles! I'm always on the lookout for one of the big heavy table saws like we had in HS woodshop! Mick |
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ClintonMagus Inner circle Southwestern Southeast 3997 Posts |
Quote:
On 2009-01-26 01:19, MickeyPainless wrote: Several years ago a friend ordered a 3-horsepower Delta Unisaw from Redmond Machinery in Atlanta: http://www.redmond-machinery.com/table_s......oned.htm This is a great place to order from, and you can save a TON of money by purchasing reconditioned machinery. Well, the Unisaw arrived, but ut was apparently dropped while unloading at his house, and the trunion broke. (Any of you who are familiar with Unisaws will know what a blow this must have taken.) My friend filed a claim with the shipper and called Redmond, who promptly sent out a replacement. When it arrived, it wasn't the 3-HP version he ordered; it was a 5-HP! Redmond said that they didn't have any more 3-HP in stock at the time, and they knew that he needed the saw, so they shipped "the next best thing"... DROOL, DROOL... This thing will rip 2-inch oak without even slowing down...
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Quote:
On 2009-01-26 07:19, ClintonMagus wrote: I'd hate to feel kickback from that thing! It'd snap your forearms.
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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lin Special user California 876 Posts |
If I could deduct it, afford it, or justify it in some other way, this would be the table saw I'd purchase:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/T......id=30455 A friend of mine who does some contract work found a SawStop Industrial Cabinet Saw used on Craigslist. He LOVES it. Safety, Quality... and (gently) used if you can. cheers |
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ClintonMagus Inner circle Southwestern Southeast 3997 Posts |
Quote:
On 2009-01-26 09:56, Michael Baker wrote: You probably wouldn't, at least for a few minutes...
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
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MickeyPainless Inner circle California 6065 Posts |
WOW! The prices on those rehab'd Delta saws are pretty reasonable! My next big purchases will be a jointer and a planer! Jet makes a wicked cool combo set up but it's $2K and is probably way more machine than I'll ever need!
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Magic Kevin New user Maryland - United States 77 Posts |
You guys are making me change my mind! I want to better quality tools now. I still can't figure out what jig saw or circular saw I want, so maybe I should go to home depot, lowes, or sears and talk to someone there?
Kevin
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ClintonMagus Inner circle Southwestern Southeast 3997 Posts |
Every now and then I find someone at Lowe's who is pretty knowledgeable. I have never found such a person at Sears or Home Depot.
Look for contact information on some of the woodworking websites such as http://www.woodworker.com. If you call them, they can advise you as well as give you some good prices on tools.
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
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