Hi everyone.

I recently bought a Mak Strat-O-Sphere and the paint on the outside of the metal tube is bad. It was packed with the instructional sheet folded and wropped around the tube, and the ink from the printing appears to have smeared and mixed in with the paint. It is only on the back side of the tube, but still I want to fix it.

It a shame that a brand-new prop comes like this. I considered sending it back, but I had thought about re-painting it anyway, so I may go ahead and do it. The thing is, I had heard Mak was having problems with the paint not sticking to the metal tube, and that their orders were backed up. When I contacted the magic shop about this, they said they had them in stock and had not of the problem with the paint, so I went ahead and ordered it.

Looking at the tube from the inside, it appears to be made of aluminum. I was wondering what would be the best paint to use on aluminum? I have heard that some paints will not stick well to aluminum, so I want to be sure before I begin.

Also, do you think I should strip the paint, or just sand, rough it and paint over it? The ink stain does not want to come off, and the paint looks really smooth and feels tough. I always worry about painting metal tubes because it seems the paint scrathes easily, so I hope I can find something that will stand up to the friction of use.

Thanks for all your help!

Regan

Why not use the sticky wall or shelf paper that is sold in most craft stores. They come in all kinds of patterns, colors, etc. When it wears out remove it and put a new one on.

Lacquer applied with an airbrush would be my choice, but the tube would have to be stripped, de-greased, dried well, and primed first.

If repainting is a definite option, at least you are already mentally prepared for that. Ideally, you'd want to breach the paint as little as possible. and first try to see if the ink stain will come off. You said you tried, but didn't say how. Try denatured alcohol to see if that dissolves the ink. It may or may not, but is less likely to affect the paint finish. You may also want to try lighter fluid. Don't use anything stronger at this point.

If neither of those works, see if you can lightly buff the stain out with fine grade steel wool. You may be able to get the stain out without going all the way through the paint. If this works, then a couple light mists of clear enamel should bring the shine back up.

Barring any success, you might be able to paint over the existing paint, as long as you don't have to worry about a stenciled design being part of the offended area. This might save you from having to strip it all down to bare metal.

I agree. The tube is already primed and painted. There's really no need to strip and repaint. Newsprint ink is actually safe to eat, so I don't think it can eat thru too much clear paint finish. Follow Michael's advise and try cleaning it first with a mild-to-medium strength astringent. I'd even try just simple peroxide or shampoo and hot water applied with a sponge. Start weak and build up. Try to keep the job as simple as possible.

Mr. Cleans Magic eraser. No joke.

For what it's worth, some manufacturers package their products too soon before the finishes have a chance to cure (in my opinion). I've seen some that were tightly packaged in plastic or bubble wrap, which makes an airtight seal. Residual solvents react with that badly over time. To imagine one solvent affecting another to the point of doing what Regan described, isn't hard to do.

I've delayed shipping many times on items when I wanted to be certain the finish had cured enough to ship it safely. It actually takes a LOOOONG time for many paints and oil finishes to cure completely, longer than you'd think. I put too much work into my apparatus to want to do it twice because of something like this.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Michael is exactly correct with his description of how the ink transferred to the paint. The instruction sheet was folded in half and wrapped around the tube, with plastic shrink-wrap tightly holding it on. It was semi-stuck to the paint when I tried to remove it. It is still smooth though, and even shiny, but with blackish-to-grayish smearing and lettering all over it.

The only thing I have tried to remove it with is water, alcohol, and lighter fluid. Neither seemed to have any effect, and it seems the ink is actually a part of the paint.

I am thinking about trying a finishing compound that I use on guitars. It will buff out scratches and bring out the shine. I use it on lacquer paints. Does anyone know what type of paint Mak uses on their metal props? I am guessing it is probably a powdercoat. It appears to be tough and scratch resistant, and that is one reason I hate to repaint it.

Having said all that, even if I choose not to paint the outside, I still may want to paint the interior of the tube. I checked iot with a magnet and it must be some type of aluminum. So, I would still like to know what type of paint is good to use on aluminum. I'd like something that is tough and scratch resistant as possible.

Thanks guys!

Regan

You would be wise to try the cutting compound first,use it the same as you would on your car.This procedure will make the area where you have the problem glossy,so you may have to dull it after.I use pumice powder for that(traditional)but a household scouring agent will do a similar job.You would normally have to load a dulling brush(traditional again,sorry) with the abrasive to achieve this,but a decent fine bristle brush will do.
If you are thinking of finishing the inner of the tube you'll need to use an etching primer which will bite into the substrate and prevent any adhesion problems,thus reducing the prospect of the finish chipping away during use.Use that with a compatible top colour coat and maybe even a clear lacquer to finish.
Good luck!
Cheers,Ray.

Mr. cleans magic eraser

Hello Regan:

Here's what I'd do:

1. Strip down the whole thing with Clean-strip - Walmart or Home Depot.
2. Primer inside and out using Painter's Touch spray primer (Home Depot). Use the rust colored primer.
3. Paint inside of tube with Painter's Touch flat black enamal.
4. Paint outside with Krylon spray paint - your choice of color - glossy. Best selection is at Walmart.
5. Add detail (waterslide decals)
6. Add clear-coat finish - glossy - Krylon
7. Add auto pin-striping (available at Pep-boys)

The Painter's Touch and Krylon glossy paints are compatible. I've never had lifting, and I like Painter's Touch primer much better than Krylon primer as it goes on wetter and gives a smoother look. I would not recommend Painter's Touch gloss spray paint as I've found it's way too fickle - lifting occurs way too easily, with me at least.

Ron

Thanks Ron for sharing your thoughts. I will try the painter's touch primer. I am getting a little fed up with Krylon as they keep changing things.

BTW, I found Krylon at Home Depot for almost fifty cents cheaper a can. Not much but it adds up.

Richard

Our Home Depot doesn't carry Krylon. I wish it did...

The Home Depot here stopped carrying Krylon as well. All they have now is Painter's Touch, which seems to be pretty good paint. I have used it on a lot of my props. Krylon is available Ace Hardware stores all over the USA. At least that is what the company says ! Mileage nay vary. I find that Ace usually has a wide variety of paint manufacturers available, but their prices are considerably higher than Home Depot.

Mark

I will 'third' the suggestion for Mr. Clean's Magic Eraser. It will work. If you don't know what the product is, it's in the cleaning supplies aisle at any grocery store or big box store. It's a sponge that has a melange of complex chemicals embedded in it (wear gloves!) that you moisten and use to wipe away most 'mark' type of stain. It's more 'magical' than most of the things we talk about on this site. Science! (said in an echoing voice like Thomas Dolby).

Kindly,

Brian

Last time I went to my local Ace, they were completely out, but it was just before they moved to a much larger (and nicer) store, so they probably have it now.

If you use an airbrush and are looking for some really good paint, look into model railroad lacquer and enamel. A couple of brands used to be Floquil and Scalecoat. Another brand was Accu-Paint, I believe. I haven't bought or used any in many years, so I'm not sure they're even still around, but it was wonderful stuff!

I can find Krylon at Wal Mart, K-Mart, and Ace. But last night, I had another "Krylon issue" that reminded me why I hate that company. I have also been using a little of Valspar, both enamel and lacquer, found at Lowes. So far, so good.

I have not tried the Painter's Touch, as I rarely shop at Home Depot, but I will. I am especialy interested in the primer, because of what Ron said. I do sense a bit of irony, though. He lives in what may be the driest state in America, while I live in one of the poster-states for humidity. Around here, paint that hits more dry can save hours, days, and sometimes weeks in a painting project. I can always add a couple gloss coats at the end.

Sorry to have continued the thread hijacking...

I'm still curious to hear how Regan's fix-it project will go.

Rustoleum carriesa spray laquer now

I've only found it in black, white, and clear. Where did you see this?

Thnaks everyone. With all this great info surely something will work! Ron, thanks for that step-by-step! That will be very helpful. Now if I can just get some time to get started on it!

Regan