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Back No 67 New user 87 Posts |
Hi,
I'm working my way through 'Riffle Shuffle Systems' by Marlo. All is going fine, and I am managing it all fine UNITL I reach the No Breaks section. I'm not sure what the thumb scratch is meant to be like. I says to create a key card by scratching the card along its long edge in the centre with the thumb nail. that's the only description. How deep should the scratch be? Am I right to assume the scratch is perpendicular to the edge? Or should it be parallel? Also, does anybody use this? How do you do it? Well if anybody can help, that would be fantastic. Ed |
Stanyon Inner circle Landrum, S.C. by way of Chicago 3433 Posts |
Parallel (along the long edge) and it should be large enough for you to discern the mark without it being obvious to the spectator, but since the mark is on the operator's side the spectator shouldn't see a thing. Page 46, right?
Stanyon
aka Steve Taylor "Every move a move!" "If you've enjoyed my performance half as much as I've enjoyed performing for you, then you've enjoyed it twice as much as me!" |
Ray J Inner circle St. Louis, MO 1503 Posts |
This is similar to a concept of Carmen D'Amico's which he used to surreptitiously mark a card as it was returned to the pack.
The mark is made with the thumbnail and is a scratch, not deep at all. If you see an indentation while looking straight down at the back of the card, it is too deep. The whole idea is that the scratch changes the COLOR of the card along the edge so that it is visible when replaced into the pack. A light scratch is all that is necessary. Also, when you don't wish to see it again or need to change key cards for any reason you can simply rub the scratched area with the pad of your thumb and it is gone. Hope this helps. Try it out and see.
It's never crowded on the extra mile....
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gadfly3d Special user 963 Posts |
Plus the more use the deck has had the easier it is.
Gil |
DGillam New user 87 Posts |
Look for the part of the side of the deck that is naturally covered by your fingers and base of your thumb when you hold the deck in a relaxed natural grip, then nick the edge of the card where it will be naturally covered.
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Back No 67 New user 87 Posts |
Thank you all for your replies. I finally understand what you are talking about. I thought the text meant something different. Shouldn't be too much of a problem now.
If anybody has leads on where I can find a copy of the second and third in the series I would appreciate it. I'm already aware of the second being available to premium members at the Jon Racherbaumer site, I'm looking for other sources. Ed |
tommy Eternal Order Devil's Island 16544 Posts |
All of which sounds like sand work to me. You know sand paper and a plaster with a slit.
If there is a single truth about Magic, it is that nothing on earth so efficiently evades it.
Tommy |
Stanyon Inner circle Landrum, S.C. by way of Chicago 3433 Posts |
It's an impromptu key card, Tommy! You're doing it on the fly.
Stanyon
aka Steve Taylor "Every move a move!" "If you've enjoyed my performance half as much as I've enjoyed performing for you, then you've enjoyed it twice as much as me!" |
tommy Eternal Order Devil's Island 16544 Posts |
Yes. The sandman puts the work in on the fly similar to the peg worker does. The fingernail method doesn’t work to achieve that effect described above, at least not very well it seems to me, even with a v. I am not a fan of either of those methods actually because one needs a dirty deck and who wants to use old cards? One could do the opposite and dirty up an edge of one in a clean deck, and there are ways to that on the fly. I am not keen on that neither. When doing riffle work you don’t want be looking for edge marks. What you want is a key that you can cut blind, one that that can be put in on the fly. What it is I am not at liberty to say.
If there is a single truth about Magic, it is that nothing on earth so efficiently evades it.
Tommy |
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