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Zazz Veteran user California 315 Posts |
Just made a spring hinge from Michael Baker's tutorial. Thanks for the link. The hinge turned out just as I wanted.
I used a 6/32" screw by 2" long to wind my spring and the threads of the screw kept my windings tight. Dan |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Quote:
On 2010-06-17 14:06, Zazz wrote: Great idea with the screw. I'll try that next time I need to make a spring.
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Dr. Solar Special user Citrus Heights, Ca. 526 Posts |
I turned one last night, baked it for one hour at 500 degrees and it seemed to soften the metal. I heard today that it needs to be plunged into water to shock it or temper it. Gonna try that right now.
Doc
"look for me in all things forgotten"
www.drsolar.com |
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hugmagic Inner circle 7655 Posts |
Try 500 degress for about 15 minutes and let it air cool. That is how I was taught by my spring maker for the torsion style springs. I also use it on compression springs.
Richard
Richard E. Hughes, Hughes Magic Inc., 352 N. Prospect St., Ravenna, OH 44266 (330)296-4023
www.hughesmagic.com email-hugmagic@raex.com Write direct as I will be turning off my PM's. |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
I have never used heat to set a spring. I wind them and they are ready to go. What am I missing?
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Dr. Solar Special user Citrus Heights, Ca. 526 Posts |
Eureka! Thanks to all and then some. The spring is heated by torch to cherry red, quenched into water thus hardening it. Then it was put into the oven at 500 for an hour, then quenched in cooking oil to cool. It works perfectly. On to the next project. Ha! Never enough time.
Doc
"look for me in all things forgotten"
www.drsolar.com |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Quote:
On 2010-06-18 01:44, Dr. Solar wrote: Where in the world did you get this information??
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Dr. Solar Special user Citrus Heights, Ca. 526 Posts |
http://www.sheffieldforum.co.uk/archive/......448.html
http://www.metalsmith.org/pub/mtlsmith/V21.2/Springs.htm These are a couple of links I found, pretty much all say the same thing. I remembered how in high school the metal shop teacher told and showed us how to do it. I have to get a stock of lead to help set the temperature at about the 500 degree tempering period. Anyway, it worked. Doc
"look for me in all things forgotten"
www.drsolar.com |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Doc,
Thanks for the links. What type of spring were you making, and what type of wire or metal were you using.
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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hugmagic Inner circle 7655 Posts |
The old spring wire that Horace Marshall had was goverment surplus. It was top notch. We never had to heat treat it. But with the new wire available, it is not as good so I went through a lot of problems of maintaining the spring tension.
Dr. Solar is oil tempering the metal. That is a different process from regular heat treating. Don't we wish we had paid more attention in shop class. At least when I was in college and had to take some technology classes, I was smart enough to realize the potential magic uses for some of the information. I silk screened jumbo bicycle cards on sponge rubber. Never figured out a good routine but they were neat to play around with. Richard
Richard E. Hughes, Hughes Magic Inc., 352 N. Prospect St., Ravenna, OH 44266 (330)296-4023
www.hughesmagic.com email-hugmagic@raex.com Write direct as I will be turning off my PM's. |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
I actually have never heard of heat tempering springs made from music wire. I think my solution has been to have enough coils in the spring that the wire doesn't have to respond as much as if the same turn was spread over a shorter length of wire.
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Dr. Solar Special user Citrus Heights, Ca. 526 Posts |
Michael and Richard, I believe piano or music wire has much more nickel in it to prevent rusting and add strength so as to vibrate much better. The wire I used and mouse traps use is basic carbon steel. I can't find my veneers to measure the diameter at this time.
As said, I used safflower oil but others use motor oil and actually light it up as part of the slower reduction of heat. We'll see how long this spring works before any fatigue. I tried various numbers of turns as I see that specifics are called out in Granger catalog as such as well as the degrees desired to cause movement. A torsion spring with legs extended straight out on either side of the coil would be a 180 degree spring used to force open a flap that starts parallel. mine had legs both on the one side thus when stretched open would snap back to the original position when released. Now I will use this info to build a mini blammo in the preferred style for my show. I have to come up with an adequate release besides lifting off the top. Richard, I have access to a wonderful scrap metals place in silicon valley. Did you have a definite wire need? I could check it out. Plenty of stuff there with govt. requirements. Best to you both, Doc
"look for me in all things forgotten"
www.drsolar.com |
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Zazz Veteran user California 315 Posts |
I just made springs out of .025" and .039" diameter music wire. The smaller diameter wire was much easier to work with. The .039" wire was easier to lose its shape when fitting it into the hinge.
I'm using the spring hinge to assist opening a 10" square by 1/4" thick piece of plywood. One spring hinge makes the plywood slightly lighter. I think a second hinge will do the trick. Dan |
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hugmagic Inner circle 7655 Posts |
Doc,
You are correct on the nickel composition of various wires. There is also stainless steel music wire. Springs made of stainless wire, when heated, add more preload to the spring. Carbon music wire lessen the preload. A couple of things to consider when fitting in springs. First the pin inside the finished part must be small enough diameter to allow the spring to compress without squeezing against the pin. Also you must allow for the spring to expand in length as it tightens down. If you do not allow enough room for the compression of the spring, compressing the spring will squeeze like a pair of pliers and take the tension out. Surplus is interesting and I will keep it in mind. But sometimes, I hate to get surplus for fear of getting used to something I may never be able to get again. Richard
Richard E. Hughes, Hughes Magic Inc., 352 N. Prospect St., Ravenna, OH 44266 (330)296-4023
www.hughesmagic.com email-hugmagic@raex.com Write direct as I will be turning off my PM's. |
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Zazz Veteran user California 315 Posts |
I added four small spring hinges to the door and ran into complications. Unless the hinge pins are aligned perfectly parallel to each other, they will bind. I scrapped the hinges and made a new spring hinge from a 10" piano hinge. I placed four small springs along the piano hinge and it worked perfectly and it made installing much easier.
Dan |
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Dr. Solar Special user Citrus Heights, Ca. 526 Posts |
Zazz,
very nice idea. back at the spring making again tonight. Best to all. Doc
"look for me in all things forgotten"
www.drsolar.com |
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Darkwing Inner circle Nashville Tn 1850 Posts |
Guys,
Just sitting here and reading all these post makes me appreciate the MC more and more. Listening to all this experience is invaluable. Thank you all for this info. David Williams |
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Bill Hegbli Eternal Order Fort Wayne, Indiana 22797 Posts |
Stumbled across this site that has spring loaded hinges.
http://www.pinetuk.com/service/caddownload.asp |
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