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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » The workshop » » Best ferrous metal for props? (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

Meshuggina
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I'm trying to make some props which can be grabbed magnetically, but I'm not sure if steel is the best bet because of corrosion issues. Are there any specific steels or other alloys that anyone has tried? I'm looking for something that can be a nice accent to a wood piece, so it won't stick out, hence something that will shine up and hold the shine.
Zazz
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I picked up some pieces of stainless steel from a hardware store that sells Ace brand products. I was surprised to see that it is attracted to magnets because I thought stainless steel was non-magnetic. When I asked the clerk, he said that it depends on the make up of it. The pieces I bought were 1" x 12" x 1/32" and polished to a mirror finish. I paid under $2 each. They also sold 3/4" and 1/2" wide strip in different thicknesses.

Dan
profl
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Quote:
On 2010-05-26 17:15, Zazz wrote:
I picked up some pieces of stainless steel from a hardware store that sells Ace brand products. I was surprised to see that it is attracted to magnets because I thought stainless steel was non-magnetic. When I asked the clerk, he said that it depends on the make up of it. The pieces I bought were 1" x 12" x 1/32" and polished to a mirror finish. I paid under $2 each. They also sold 3/4" and 1/2" wide strip in different thicknesses.

Dan


304 Stainless, which is the cheaper common grade, is a attracted to magnets. 316 stainless, which is the more expensive common grade, is not attracted to magnets.
Zazz
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Thanks for the info, Profl.

Dan
Michael Baker
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You can also embed a magnet behind your decorative accent. Another magnet would be attracted to it.
~michael baker
The Magic Company
jay leslie
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And there is that ferris impregnated paint that magnets stick to, for flat lightweight objects.

Other then that there's iron, steel and galvanized (zink coated) but if you're talking sheets, the cold-rolled steel comes in various gages and once treated/sealed it won't rust.

I use cold-rolled for all my tubes.

Click here to view attached image.
Meshuggina
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I'm thinking for a small wand made of ebony. Either making the ends Stainless or slicing it lengthwise and adding a sliver of stainless right through it.

Another option I considered was drilling through the center (which will be fun if the bit wanders any...) and just using all-thread as the magnetic medium, then screwing brass tips on.

Thanks for the info. I, too, thought that all stainless was not magnetic, so I had dismissed that option entirely!
thegreatnippulini
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Actually all of the 300 series stainless steel alloys are non magnetic by nature. Cold work as in drawing or other cold forming techniques can make 300 series magnetic. Heat treat the 304 stainless you have to normalized and try to stick a magnet to it.

400 series stainless steels ARE quite magnetic. The 400 series is commonly used in knife making whereas the 300 series are used more for kitchen cutlery.

I have hundreds of yards of stainless rod, I could send a slice off to you if you need. PM for more info.
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
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profl
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On 2010-05-27 15:01, thegreatnippulini wrote:
Actually all of the 300 series stainless steel alloys are non magnetic by nature. Cold work as in drawing or other cold forming techniques can make 300 series magnetic. Heat treat the 304 stainless you have to normalized and try to stick a magnet to it.

400 series stainless steels ARE quite magnetic. The 400 series is commonly used in knife making whereas the 300 series are used more for kitchen cutlery.

I have hundreds of yards of stainless rod, I could send a slice off to you if you need. PM for more info.


Cold working as in making strip/sheets will render low grade 300 series, which are readily available at Ace, etc., attractive to magnets. High grade 300 (316) will not. The ferritic 400 series stainless are as thegreatnippulini rightly points out are attracted to magnets, but you are unlikely to find it at any hardware store and they are considerably more expensive than 304. And more than 316. Indeed heating will remove the magnetic properties of 304, so do not heat treat 304.
jazzy snazzy
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Quote:
On 2010-05-27 12:12, Meshuggina wrote:
I'm thinking for a small wand made of ebony. Either making the ends Stainless or slicing it lengthwise and adding a sliver of stainless right through it.

Another option I considered was drilling through the center (which will be fun if the bit wanders any...) and just using all-thread as the magnetic medium, then screwing brass tips on.


If you have access to a lathe, a stationary bit will self-center on the spinning stock.
"The secret of life is to look good from a distance."
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Meshuggina
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I do, but the length of the bit can still add a bit of flex to it, and there won't be much material around the center. I suppose I could just drill into the ends a bit and epoxy in a bit of all thread, making just the ends magnetic, but that is fine for my purpose. I'm pretty sure I can safely do that.
thegreatnippulini
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Profl, I have no idea where you are getting your information. According to my Machinery Handbook, ASTM Book, and the materials appendix in my Forging Industry Handbook you are incorrect. I do not buy my steels at the hardware store, I buy direct from steel mills and materials specialists. The difference in price between 304 and 316 is negligible. Profl, I have personally by hand AND machine cold worked 316 to a magnetic state. Please look it up. I have worked with forming 316 stainless for over 8 years now, I know what I am talking about. Maybe someone misinformed you or you read some page that wasn't researched properly. The main difference between 304 and 316 is really a resistance to corrosion and tempurature. PLEASE research what I am saying instead of the standard knee-jerk reaction to disagree.
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
http://www.greatnippulini.com
thegreatnippulini
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Also, the price of steels (and other materials) has more to do with how it is made. 1 pound of cold rolled 1" square will be way cheaper than 1 pound of DOM steel tubing.
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
http://www.greatnippulini.com
profl
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On 2010-05-28 12:38, thegreatnippulini wrote:
Profl, I have no idea where you are getting your information. According to my Machinery Handbook, ASTM Book, and the materials appendix in my Forging Industry Handbook you are incorrect. I do not buy my steels at the hardware store, I buy direct from steel mills and materials specialists. The difference in price between 304 and 316 is negligible. Profl, I have personally by hand AND machine cold worked 316 to a magnetic state. Please look it up. I have worked with forming 316 stainless for over 8 years now, I know what I am talking about. Maybe someone misinformed you or you read some page that wasn't researched properly. The main difference between 304 and 316 is really a resistance to corrosion and tempurature. PLEASE research what I am saying instead of the standard knee-jerk reaction to disagree.


Please thegreatnippulini, I do apologize if you thought my reference to buying stainless in the hardware store was a reference to you. I really was directing my response to Meshuggina, the initial poster and Zazz, the first responder.. Nor do I want to disparage your sucessful eight (8) years of working with mill purchased stainless. Nor do I have any problems with your research ability. So please forgive any offense I might have made. Believe me, it was totally unintentional. I do not want to offend you, or anyone, or start any unpleasant posting exchange.

Can we just tell the original poster that he can use stainless for his project, but wherever he buys it take a magnet along with him to be sure the magnet is attracted to it with sufficient strength?
EsnRedshirt
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Profl has a very good idea, taking a magnet with you when you shop to be sure you're getting something magnetic enough.

If you want to add a concealed magnet to a prop, you may want to try drilling a shallow, wide hole with a Forstner bit instead of a thin deep one with a standard bit- this will allow you to plop in a strong disc magnet like you can get in Michael's Arts and Crafts, or a thin neodymium magnet. Cover it with a thin strip of basswood (from the hobby wood section) and no one will be the wiser.

(You'll probably want to use a drill press if you're using a Forstner bit, though- it really needs the extra stability afforded by the press.)
Self-proclaimed Jack-of-all-trades and google expert*.

* = Take any advice from this person with a grain of salt.
thegreatnippulini
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Hey Profl, don't worry about it. I do my best to not take internet discussions too personally. My main concern is keeping information here accurate and relative. In the world of commercialized merchandise there is more selling of the sizzle rather than the steak. For example: Damascus steel. Some knife manufacturers will fill the item description in their catalogs with tons of inaccurate info saying that it has 1,000 layers etc. etc. The term "aircraft grade aluminum" is used widely in advertising. Did you know that there are over 600 different grades of aluminum used in aircraft construction? So my purpose here is not to bash anyone or belittle with condescention, but rather to explain better what is being misunderstood. I took no offense to yout posts, okay? I am serious about the research part.... look into it. If I am wrong I'll buy you a beer.

TGN
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
http://www.greatnippulini.com
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