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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » The workshop » » Weighted sponge balls (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

Chance
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Looking for the best way to cut open a sponge ball and then re-seal it with a small weight trapped inside.

No "what if" type suggestions on this one. I'm looking for a tried and true method only, please.
tabman
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Well, let me tell you what not to do. Awhile back I gimmicked up a sponge ball as a chop cup ball. I sliced it open, put the little magician inside and sealed it with CA. I used CA because that's what I had on the bench at the time.

Well, pretty soon the sponge started melting so don't use CA. Find some glue that wont destroy the sponge. I never tried it with any thing else. The need passed me by. I got to use the ball for a couple of days which is all I needed it but it didn't last too long.
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silking
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Use a craft glue for glueing foam craft projects. Bond 527 glue should work.
you.

Silking
marD
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Kozmo's Tales from the Streets has a way to do it...
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Chance
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MarD, well unless it's a top secret known only to Koz because he invented and patented it, why don't you share it with us?

Tabbie, thanks for the heads up on contact glue. I actually asked that very question earlier today when I was at the hardware store. I bought some stuff called Pliobond, which works like CA and stays flexible too. But I gotta tell ya, it's literally the nastiest glue I have ever worked with. And it takes too long to dry as well. But it does seem to stay flexible, which is a huge point when working with sponge balls. I suppose if I had a regular work space with all the right clamps and ventilation I might just stay with it. But I'm on the road and I need something a faster and less smelly.

Silking, how flexible is the Bond 527 once it's dry?
AGMagic
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3M makes a glue specifically for gluing headliners etc. in cars. It is #08088 General Trim Adhesive. Scotch 77 should work also and may be easier to find. Both are contact type cement and will grab and hold with no clamping.
Tim Silver - http://www.facebook.com/pages/Magic-Woodshop/122578214436546

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Chance
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Thabks AGM. I looked both of those suggestions up just now and they both come in a spray can. I don't think that's the right applicator for sponge balls.

So far the best over-all suggestion seems to be the Bond 527.

I'm still looking for ideas. Except for the Pliobond (which I've tossed out) I haven't made any actual R&D. I don't want to waste time or sponge balls.

Isn't there anyone here that's done this already and can say exactly what to do?...
gaddy
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I just pierce mine with a x-acto knife and coat the ball bearing with white glue before inserting it into the middle of the sponge ball, I then insert the bearing into the middle of the sponge ball and then wipe off the excess glue on the surface of the cut. I've never had any issues doing this, and my sponge balls have lasted a couple of years.
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gaddy
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Quote:
On 2010-06-08 22:37, marD wrote:
Kozmo's Tales from the Streets has a way to do it...


No, Kozmo just says to do it. There is no method given.
*due to The Magic Cafe's editorial policies, words on this site attributed to me cannot necessarily be held to be my own.*
tstark
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I have a lot of sponge balls I have received over the past couple of years and didn't mind giving the gluing a shot so I attempted the tried and true standard, rubber cement. My rubber cement has thickened a little and even at that it made an excellent bond and is flexible so the sponge handled and compressed like normal. A new bottle of the cement is far more liquid and is easier to deal with. The only question left is how long the bond will last. Give it a go.
AGMagic
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Quote:
On 2010-06-11 15:33, Chance wrote:
Thabks AGM. I looked both of those suggestions up just now and they both come in a spray can. I don't think that's the right applicator for sponge balls.


You can always spray a puddle of glue onto a piece of scrap paper then apply to the sponge ball with an acid brush or popsicle stick. You might check with an auto upholsterer to see if they can recommend a non-spray glue that they use. They work with foam all the time and probably have just what you need.
Tim Silver - http://www.facebook.com/pages/Magic-Woodshop/122578214436546

I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.

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makeupguy
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You want a tried and true method...

SOBO Glue.. also Aleen's Tacky Glue.

it's white.. dries clear.. SUPER flexible.. won't affect your foam, in fact.. it LOVES foam... and they are both available at your local Michaels or JoAnn's

There you have it.
Michael Baker
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Whatever glue you decide to use, here is a little tip that may save some aggravation...

When you do glue the seam together, use only enough pressure to get the two sides to touch and make good contact. Do not press them together, or squeeze them. Doing so causes any uncured cement to seep into the pores of the foam and glue to itself internally. This will cause a dense area of compacted foam which will not go away.
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Chance
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Isn't it kinda wild that such a simple idea can be so hard to get info on? It took nearly a week for Makeupguy to find us and tell us the way to go. I think we've fixed Zig-zags in less time in this section! LOL

MUG, thanks for the tip. I just ordered a 4oz bottle of SOBO off Amazon. (I told you Michael, I don't use ebay any more! lol)

Michael, I know what you mean. I saw that happening with the Pliobond. Easy does it from now on.
epoptika
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I kept waiting for Koz to pop up and spill his secret glue of choice. He mentioned at his lecture that he glued steel nuts inside his sponge balls but did not mention what type of glue he used and I forgot to ask afterwards.
Kozmo
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Rubber cement....

koz
Chance
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OK, so this is how I approached this project.

For inserting the weights I used a heated exacto knife to cut a slit halfway into the balls. After that I used a heated piece of coathanger twisted into a ball at the end to hollow it out a bit.

For gluing I used the SOBO glue mentioned earlier. It says it's made especially for things like foam rubber, but it works basically the same as any white glue. I basically just squirted the stuff in and pressed the edges together with my fingers.

If I were to do it again, I would use a small brush to give the insides a first coat, and then let that set before the final glue down. The reason being, the sponges are so porous that when you squirt it in too much of it is drawn inwards. It requires a little more prep than that to do it right, imo.

As for drying, the outer surface is already dry, but the insides are going to take a while. Especially since I used too much glue as mentioned above. I'll give it a week to cure.
Nate Green
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This thread is a little old, but I'm giving it a shot. Just wondering what size spongeballs you guys use and what is the best size weight to glue inside (ballbearing, nut, etc.)?

Thanks,
Nate
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