I've been using paper mache for some time. I've made load balls for my cup and ball routine, skulls etc.
It's easy to use, stronge and light. It also fits into my 'old' style.
I use phone directories soak them in water, mash them up and mix them with PVA glue (or for stronger things I use water soluable wood work glue).
Works for me, why not try it?
Anyone wanting to know more just ask.

I'd like to hear your experiences with it. Great idea with the phone books.

I have used paper mache quite a bit for marionettes (mostly the heads). Although I have used the pulp type, I am partial to glued-on strips soaked in white glue. I either build over an armature, even as simple as a ball of aluminum foil, or by pressing it into a negative mold cast from plaster of paris.

I use rolls of party streamer crepe paper torn to size. It is not as fragile as tissue paper, and more flexible than newsprint. This is important for getting fine details.

I'll dig up some photos of my work and post them later.

I use paper mache all the time! I use it to make many of my props and puppets.You can see some of my marionettes at <www.mascotsandpuppets.com>.They are light and very durable.The fine details are sculpted in with Apoxie or Magic Sculpt.

Excellent work, maps!!

When I made the finial load balls I used crumpled up paper covered this with mashed up paper mache, then covered it with strips of paper to give me a finer finish. Then 'sealed' the paper with varnish before painting it in bright colours and varnising it. They worked well

Thanks Michael!

Lately I've been using papier mache' made with acrylic gel medium as the "glue" and strips of coffee filter for the paper. By using brown and white coffee filters I can keep track of the layers. The coffee filter paper is stronger than newspaper and the acrylic gel medium is strong, waterproof when dry, and it dries much faster than white glue or wheat paste.

-Philip

I used the classic flour-based paper mache to make a full scale iron maiden prop last Halloween. My mother-in-law, who helped me tear down the haunted house afterwards, was shocked that once everything was done, I ripped it down to the chicken-wire frame and cut it to scrap to toss out.

"Well, it's basically newspaper covered in gravy. I'm not going to be able to use it again- it'd be all moldy by next year."

On a side note, it's very possible to use entire unripped sheets of newspaper to cover a large, essentially flat area. Just be sure to take extra care to smooth out any air bubbles between the layers.

I was actually doing this with the crepe paper (two different colors). It makes it much easier to calculate thickness, and coverage.

I use the pulp method. I find it much like clay to work with, but you can sand it down like wood when dried. I bought a huge bag of paper pulp as untreated pump in insulation. It's dirt cheap and a lot easier than pulping it yourself.

I use the rough brown paper towel for washing wind shields and blue towels from Exsson stations. wallpaper paste is cheap and easy.

Paul is right,I have have used such procedure making a sort of ZB with a wire gimmick and a bolt,it does work.Strong and light. Many possibilities.

I've re-furbished several pieces of occasional furniture (mostly mid 1800's) that were papier mache.
Testament to the long lasting strength of this medium if it is :- made,finished,and looked after well.
Ray.

Hi Folks,

Any advice on painting papier mache? I'm working on some prototype floating balls (streamer paper and a water/elmers glue mixture over a styrofoam ball). I'd like to make it look metallic, and figured to try chrome paint.

I assumed I'd treat the papier mache more or less like wood: sand it, prime it, re-sand it, prime again, and then paint. But I'd be VERY happy for any advice, this is terra incognita for me.

It would be FAR cheaper to buy chromed balls at Michaels around Xmas time.

There is chrome paint.. but it's super expensive.. and not as good as a vacuum metalized ball

Thanks for the advice, Michael. I (obviously) hadn’t considered the cost of chrome paint—I’ll have to look into it.

I actually have experimented with the chromed Christmas balls; in fact, I have one working floating ball I made from one a few years back, with a couple more untouched ornaments awaiting further design experiments. But the current design I want to test is (I think) best worked using a solid Styrofoam ball.

If chrome paint is too cost prohibitive, I may just paint the papier mache covered Styrofoam ball in a bright glossy color—all I want is a reasonably nice looking prototype that I could test in front of some carefully selected audiences. If it works out, I’ll probably have to find someone to build a final version in metal.

But I would appreciate any advice anyone has on priming (or not priming) papier mache for painting.