Hahaaaa, very good!

A posting to all my fellow Ventriloquist’s that have assisted me in deciding what the best figure stands are.

This was my first post and I’m very gratified that it extended to three pages. It demonstrates that the café does work for fellow artists contributing help to new Ventriloquists like myself.

After carefully reading all posts and examining the information of all suggestions posted, I have decided to purchase both the Al Good performing stand recommended by tacrowl , and the Gibraltar cymbal - percussion stand recommended by Philip, I find both to be a good value.

Also owning two stands is good insurance against breaking, or forgetting comportments when transporting equipment

Tacrowl brings up a good point that “If your figure sits with legs over the edge, that may create an issue, may not”; as I posted here I plan to place a sign in the front of the stand with my name and the name of the event; I have never seen a Ventriloquist perform with a sign on the stand; and performing with the legs over the edge may create an issue with a sign.

Since this thread has extended to three pages I am going to start a new thread to explore the pros and cons of my idea of signage on the stand.

Hopefully I will get the same response in that thread as I have received here.

Thanks to all…

AS a FWIW, a female mike stand flange csn be ordered from a reputable music store. Some of the big box stores might have one in stock.

Scuffy,

I didn’t even think to call a music store and ask, The Guitar Center is on my way to work, and I’ll go in and ask if they have flanges or can order it for me.

The last information I got was a company in Florida that wanted to charge me $5.00 for the flange and $16.00 to ship it to me.

THANKS

BTW I like your picture

I dropped by the Guitar Center and they had no idea of what I wanted. I think I am going to give up on building a stand and just use the stands made by reputable companies. Thanks for the post.

Philip;
The stand came today, your correct it’s large, plenty of room on top, and as stable as a 4 legged table.

Having Dan at the correct height with me standing next to him has allowed me for the first time to properly manipulate the levers on the post.

Thanks for the tip

My pleasure, Buzz.

-Philip

Here is the table complete with Dan waiting for the phone to ring for a paid gig

Click here to view attached image.

Way cool!

Do you think the sign in front is too much?

Well, he is separated from the sign by the chair, and it is a professional-looking sign, so personally I think it's fine. Actually, it looks a LOT better than I'd imagined it when you were first posting about your idea. Were it any less professional-looking, I don't think it would work at all. Good job!

-Philip

Here is a link to the atlas mike home page showing the flange and including the atlas part Number.
http://www.atlasmicstands.com/details.cfm?PN=AD-11B
However, after looking at it I think the main thing show here is the coorrect tap size it is 5/8x27!! A machinist coyls take a 2x2 in piece of scrap plate and weld the correct nut to the bottom or drill and tap the plate.
It would be a better flange. the real one is pretty small.
or, take an inexpensive double brace cymbal stand, cut the tilter off and weld a steel plate to the top. Have to holes drilled in opposing corners of the plate. then on the table top locate two bolts with wing nut, and pdrill trough the top (under the cloth) for the bolts. then, you have essentially, a very sold three piece talbe or. have it threaded to fit a standard black pipt 5/8 pipe nipple and use a regular black pipe flange plate.
It works fine on mine!

Philip,

I had it my mind what I wanted to do, you’re a magician, why couldn’t you read my mind?

Seriously, I learned from your comment in this post; In the future I am going to create and upload a photograph of what it is I want to post about, and then initiate the dialogue of the idea.

Thanks for the positive comment and feedback.

I was told how to insert photos into the post, so I thought I’d repost this

This is Dan and the table Philip told me about along with the sign in front

Hi all;

I didn’t want to start a new topic on this subject, just have a question.

I purchased a portable battery operated PA system this weekend and I need a recommendation on a wireless microphone; Is the lapel type, or the over the ear with the stem in front of the mouth a better choice?

Buzz,

Contact Joe Lefler at http://www.magicandsoundsystems.com . Joe is also a performer, so he understands the little nuances of the stage. He won't undersell you on a system, but he won't sell you too much just to make a buck. Very knowledgable in his field.

Steve
http://www.thedummyshoppe.com

Thanks for the information Steve; I will call him later in the week.

Buzz, you will sure get different opinions on mic options because picking one depends on a few criteria, especially on your performance style.

Over the years I've tried almost all mic types and ended up using a handheld mic (preferably wired) on a mic stand.

Better to try each one first in your performance, see what fits you best, and you'll make a better choice later.

Ony is right Buzz, you could get as many different answers as there are people on this forum.
I like lapel mics because they stand out the least, but I have this problem with accepting that they are in a good spot to pick up properly. I know they do, that's just me.
I like the ones with the little boom better, but not kind that extends around in front of my mouth, I like ones that just extend straight down so it's kind of off to the side of my mouth.

Now for your figure, a lapel mic is perfect. Yes, that's what I said - for your figure.
I remember a long time ago, someone suggesting putting a lapel mic on the figure adding to the illusion - the figure was speaking and needed his own mic.
I took it a step further and made a little fake transmitter box with a little red light and a small toggle switch on the top (the switch only served to turn the light on and off) with a lapel mic wired up to it and clipped to the figures collar and the transmitter clipped on his pants, on the side, but to the front so it could be seen easily.
I used it as a running gag - when we came out and the figure started to say his first line, there would be nothing, then he'd look at me and say something, I'd look sheepish, turn on the switch with the little light coming on and suddenly he could be heard - of course that gave him an opportunity to give me a shot right off.
Then maybe once or twice after that, if he got a little too unruly, I'd switch him off again making him go silent while "speaking", I'd admonish him, he'd silently say something and I'd tell him it's a good thing I had his mic turned off so no one heard what he said, etc., you get the idea.
And then at the end, he could either be going into a tirade, or just running his mouth after I told him we had to go, finally I'd switch him and off and walk off with his mouth still flapping at me.

I used to have a little diagram and instructions on my website on how to make the transmitter box from common Radio Shack parts, but it was one of the things I "let go" when I switched to a different website host and had to save space.

I use the seat of an old drummer's throne affixed to one of my heavy double braced cymbal stands to sit my figures on. The seat swivels easily and I can turn the whole body of the figure towards me if I want. BTW, cymbals stands can be found pretty cheap on local Craig's Lists and on Ebay.