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James Washer
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95 Posts

Profile of James Washer
How do you find the right jacket?
The pockets are allways too small. I was thinking about learning how to sleeve, but the sleeves are too small. I tried to get a topit sewn into one of my jackets and the lady did a horrible job. Please help!! Thanks in advance.

bama gambler

p.s. This is my first post, so please encourage me with many responses Smile
Dr. JK
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Sandusky, OH
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Profile of Dr. JK
Hi Bama!

Let me start out by saying welcome to the Cafe!

I don't know how much money you have, but if you really want a good coat that you will be happy with, you should probably get one "tailor-made." I think then you would solve the problem of the pockets being too small, as you could get them as big as you wanted. They might even be able to add the topit as they make it.

About your current coat....I've never actually used a topit myself (however I know what one is), but I think the type you are referring to is more or less permanent. So if she messed up, I guess you'll just have to live with it for now (sorry). I think a lot of the magicians here will warn you that you should only have a topit installed by someone who knows what they're doing, and that might cost you some money (unless you are "related to/good friends with" a good seamstress/tailor). Hope this helps. Sorry about your first coat.
- Jeff Kowalk, The Psychic CPA
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America’s North Coast, Ohio
3176 Posts

Profile of BroDavid
I hate to give this away, but I have been happy with it, so maybe it will help others. So here goes.

You can address the problems of having a jacket that doesn't quite make it with a topit, and sleeves too small etc, by buying a bigger coat.

Now that may sound prety outrageous, but stay with me for a minute.

If you are going to have a topit that actually has everything in it, then you will need a little extra room anyway. And typically the sleeves are bigger, in bigger sizes. As an example, I normally wear a 42R Jacket, and so I look for a 44S jacket and find the extra girth is great and the diamete5r of the sleeves is bigger.

However the length of the Jacket and Sleeves is about right. And interestingly enough, most jackets that size don't really look too big, especially if you load pockets and topit.

Here is what I do to my jackets;

1. Buy Big, but smart (44 S) so the jacket only needs my mods, not a total reconstruction.

2. Remove sleeve lining (Save it to make the topit, since it matches the lining..)

3. Install wrap-around topit (covers both sides and is supported top center between my shulders.

4. Expose the outside side pockets of the topit.

5. Add any additional pockets desired.

6. Install a variety of clips at bottom of jacket inside and under the fold of the lining, with access from the finger tips casually curling up under the bottom of jacket on the outside.

7. Install a sleeve drop in each sleeve.

Now, where to buy the best coat, and not have a fortune wrapped up in it?

I must first admit to an advantage over many today, especially our younger, taller friends. I am average height and weight. So I can go to the Goodwill, thrift this/that, Salvation Army store and get a nice selection of VERY high quality sport coats. Just be patient, look at the sleeves, and lining. I just picked up a beautiful year round weight houndstooth check jacket for $6. I forget the brand but it is QUALITY. I also chose not to buy a nice Dior in a darker houndstooth pattern, because it had a flaw in it...

And so I will just try again later, and get what I want. I get Hart Schafner, Dior, etc, and never pay more than $8 for the sport coat. I also just picked up two Tux Jackets at around $5 each.

ALso you mentioned that the lady who put the topit in, did a bad job. I have my seamstress put things where I want them. Each one is a bit different, as I use them differently and learn what works better as I go. And she just does what I want, and in the rare ocassion where it isn't acceptable, I get it done over. If it is my fault, I pay for the change. If it is her fault, she just does it over right.

Good luck,

If you stand for nothing, you will fall for anything.
Magique Hands
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Lincoln, NE.
247 Posts

Profile of Magique Hands
Great Advice BroDavid!!

Hello There Bama Gambler;

Here's a couple of things to consider as well:
1) The weight of your coat, garment, should be considered very carefully.
My coat (suit), is a Jack Victor, all black. The fabric has a very smooth 'hand' to it, and is of a 'summer weight', even though I perform year round in it.

2) When you have a topit, or any other pocket alterations done, ask the alteration business for the Master Tailor. Have the Master Tailor do the work!! I can't stress this enough. It will cost you more, but the rewards are fantastic. If the business doesn't have a Master Tailor, find one that does.

My entire suit (trousers included) have been altered to MY specifications. One of the best things I had done, was to have the outer side pockets on the coat, replaced with, what's called an 'accordian' pocket. What's so fantastic about this type of pocket, is that when you put things into them, the pocket expands towards your body, and not out. This greatly reduces 'bulging' pocket syndrome.

My trouser pockets have separations sewn into them, so that I can keep things separated inside them (Back pockets included). The underside of my lapels have
'pocket like' material sewn on, so that I can have things like TT's and such, ready for 'stealing', so that my hands don't have to go to the obvious pockets for the steal.

Again, to go along with what BroDavid mentions... having 'load clips' at the bottom edge of your coat lining is a must!

And his advice for a bigger coat is so very true... If you are a 42L, then consider getting at 43L or a 44L.

- - Troy
"If you go around sprinkling Woofle Dust on everything... people will think 'My... What an odd character."
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Profile of johnra
What about altering the coat yourself is it that hard? or even making your own coats and pants I have sewing skills would it be terribly difficult to make a very special jacket?
John Shackelford LIVE!!!
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Profile of Regan
On 2006-01-26 22:38, johnra wrote:
What about altering the coat yourself is it that hard? or even making your own coats and pants I have sewing skills would it be terribly difficult to make a very special jacket?

It would be for me!


Mister Mystery
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