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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
There is definitely a lot of work in this. I don't log the time, as it might be too depressing! Ha!
I started two of these a couple years ago, but could only work on them at times. Once you start spreading out the various parts, they really eat some space. When I am having to work inside, which is all through the winter and many other times through the year (due to weather, pollinating trees, etc.), I can choose to either make sawdust, or paint... never both at the same time for obvious reasons. I rarely make just one of anything... even if I know I only have one (or none) spoken for. Some projects like this, I will only make two. I simply don't have the space to accommodate more. Also, it is often expensive investing in materials and keeping expensive product tied up, unsold. I still have to pay the usual bills, too. I finished the one that I knew was already spoken for. It took several months from inception to delivery, but there were times when I had to back burner it to handle other projects with various time considerations. The second one was finish after someone committed to it and I was able to clear out enough space to work on it. So, just to give you an idea (and I know I am leaving some out), here is a list of tasks needed to make one of these. 1) Design the prop(s) needed and draw workshop plans with all dimensions, including a detailed parts list. This will include details such as routed edges, holes drilled, etc. 2) Estimate the materials needed and purchase at least enough to get the project started. Some material will be purchased later, as needed. 3) Layout the various plywood parts needed and cut according to a parts list. Not to be mentioned again until later will be front doors, attachment strips for them, and a top. The top will not only close the top of the cabinet, but will be functional in the use of the turntable. It will have a hole positioned to match a corresponding hole in the bottom. This is where the turntable pivots will be. There is also a half-circle slot, about 4" in diameter around this hole in the top, on the back side. This where a post will extend, and by which the turntable maybe rotated. 4) Route groves, rabbets, drill holes, and sand all parts. 5) Begin assembly of main body and turntable with glue and brads. The top is allowed to remain loose, and will be screwed down much later. Countersink all brads and fill the holes. 6) Add spindle hardware to turntable, making sure they align perfectly. 7) Grain fill and sand the cabinet body. 8) Cut the various pieces of molding that will trim the base. Add them to the cabinet. 9) Miter cut the molding that will become the feet. There are 4 pieces for each foot. Assemble these and sand them. Glue them to the bottom of the cabinet. 10) Turn the half columns on the lathe. 11) Mark their location on the front of the cabinet and mask those areas before any sealer, primer, or paint will be applied. These columns will be glued on later and it's best to go bare wood to bare wood. 12) Apply sanding sealer to entire cabinet, inside and out, and to turntable. Also do the same for the front doors and the good sides of the columns. Light sand, apply another coat, and fine sand. 13) Apply spray primer to all these parts (except where noted above). 14) Check all parts for blemishes (which show up better after primer has been applied). Patch with filler, sand and prime. Fine sand all primed surfaces to achieve a smooth finish. 15) Cut 24 checker blanks. I use mahogany because it machines well and is light weight without being soft. 16) Drill a 1/8" hole in the center of 20 blanks. The remaining 4 have 1/8" holes drilled only halfway through, but have 1/16" holes through the rest of the way. 17) Cut 1/8" brass rod that will serve as a centering device for the blanks. 18) Assemble a stack of 12 blanks, threading them on the rod. A small piece of double-sided carpet tape is between every blank. The tiny holes are to the outside at each end. 19) Chuck this entire stack on the lathe, using the tiny holes to locate the centers, and begin the slow process of turning the stack into a smooth, uniform-dimensioned cylinder, consisting of twelve equal-sized discs. Mark the spaces between the discs with a pencil and turn fine grooves (just for aesthetics). 20) Make an identical stack from the remaining blanks. 21) Sand all discs and grain-fill as necessary. 22) Make your 200th pot of coffee. 23) Cut the centers from 10 of the discs to accommodate one of two glasses that will be used. Sand the cut discs (now rings). 24) Using very thin aircraft ply (1/32"), add a false top to one of these rings. Sand and blend the edges as needed. This will be a hollow disc that will appear solid from the top. It will sit third from the top of the fake stack, with two solid checkers above it. 25) Select six of the rings, which will later be glued into a stack. Mark the side which will actually be glued together, so as not to seal, prime, or paint those surfaces. 26) Seal and prime all other surfaces of discs and rings, as you did with the cabinet parts. 27) Measure the circumference of the hollow stack (with two solid discs on top). Cut a piece of sheet steel for height and width that will become the cover tube. Understand that the tube will later be velvet lined and the checkers will be painted, and pray to God that you are cutting the metal to the correct size. It must later fit over the fake checker stack with no slop. Too much space between, the stack will not lock in the tube properly. 28) Cut the notch that will be part of the bayonet catch that locks the checker stack in the tube. 29) Roll this piece of metal into a tube, and solder the joint, or as I did, spot weld it and later blend the seam with a metal filler. You only need to do this on the outside, as the inside will be lined. 30) Pre-cut a bowl blank that will become the top of the cover tube. 31) Turn this on the lathe, hollowing the bottom to accommodate the metal tube. 32) Sand, seal and prime this piece. 33) Cut parts and make three platforms upon which the checkers and the glass(es) will rest. These are elevated on three small feet, so they are easier to pick up during the performance. One of these has a donut-shaped ring on the top, cut from 1/8" stock. This must be slightly smaller in diameter than the metal tube. The hole in the center of this must be large enough to hold the base of the glass. The purpose of this ring is to slightly elevate the checker stack while the tube is over it. Thus, when the checker stack is locked in place, this minimizes any chance of checker color flashing at the lower edge of the tube when it is later lifted. 34) Begin to make the various parts that will become the roof. It is best to cut parts as you go, to insure a good fit. Start with a simple frame with lips on the lower edges of the front and two sides. These will center the roof. 35) Cut the curved "pagoda" corner beams, notching them so fit together in an "X" fashion. Attach this to the frame using glue and dowel pins. 36) Add the molding trim, both upper and lower to the edges of the frame. 37) Measure the front and sides for the sloped roof sections. Cut those pieces and glue them in place using cleats on the underside for a secure joint. 38) I have the addition of the crown piece which has the little dragon. I just made that all in one piece, minus the dragon which was to be attached later. 39) Mask the top of the beams and the underside of the crown where they will be glued together. 40) Seal and prime all necessary parts. 41) Up to now, no color paint has been applied. Time to start doing that. I have purposely waited, so that all parts with similar colors can be done at the same time. Colors are added in layers, masking as necessary to continue with the next color. You will have a lot of parts laying around separately. 42) Once all the color has been applied (trust me, this will be a few weeks later), clear coat everything to insure a high gloss surface for the decals. 43) By the time all the areas where decals will be applied have been framed in, you can start manipulating images in Photoshop to construct the various decals. It's a good time to let the clear coats sit for several days to cure hard. 44) Print decals and clear coat them. 45) Begin applying decals, and when finished, clear coat over them to seal. 46) Velvet line the inside of the cabinet, the turntable, inside the tube, and the tops of the three platforms. 47) Find the six checker rings that are to be glued together, and do so. These will become one big hollow tube. Paint the inside of this and the other loose rings, flat black. Also, paint the bottom of the glued stack flat black. 48) Glue the tube's pagoda top to the metal tube. I use a good grade epoxy paste like PC-7 to do this. The tube is generally going to be lifted by the top and with a stack of checkers inside (even though hollow), there is a lot of weight. You don't want the top to detach. 49) Place the tube over the fake checker stack, while it is sitting on the platform with the donut-ring. Add a small screw near the lower edge of the stack, so that it becomes the other part of the bayonet catch. 50) Add knobs to the front doors and attach them to the cabinet. Add magnet catches after the doors have been attached. 51) Dry fit the turntable so you can add the post that will be the handle by which you can rotate it. Make sure that it starts and stops in the exact position necessary. Bushings are used under the turntable to insure a smooth rotation. 52) Secure the turntable by adding the top. 53) Add a curved back to the cabinet. I use a heavy grade fiberboard and attach with small screws and finish washers. 54) Glue the crown piece (and dragon) to the top of the roof. Place the finished roof section atop the cabinet. 55) Stand back and blink your eyes in disbelief that you are finished. 56) Go buy an expensive bottle of "your only weakness"... you've earned it!
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Wizard of Oz Inner circle Most people wish I didn't have 5150 Posts |
Oh, so what I'm hearing is that it was "no biggie"
...yeah, riiiiiight. I am glad that I asked the question that resulted in this already, classic post. I'm sure it took you longer to build the prop than it did to write the post, but not by much...
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
I've been told that if someone asks me the time, I will tell them how a clock works. It wasn't exactly a compliment.
Sorry for the long post.
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Wizard of Oz Inner circle Most people wish I didn't have 5150 Posts |
I'm truly glad I asked the original question. I read the whole post and was quite fascinated by the process. So, I'm actually grateful.
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
I'm glad. Even though it is quite an extensive process when seen in writing, it is still nothing compared to the real thing. Something as simple as, "Layout the various plywood parts needed and cut according to a parts list.", can actually take up much of the day.
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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StevieDee Regular user Salt Lake City area 154 Posts |
Thanks you, Michael. As a long-time lurker, I have benefitted profusely from your very generous sharing of information. This goes 'way beyond a workshop project into the "art" category.
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
StevieDee, I see that you have an interest in woodworking. Have you made any magic props for yourself or others?
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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StevieDee Regular user Salt Lake City area 154 Posts |
Yes, mostly for myself and friends, not for sale. I turned a hank pedestal out of walnut, made several different kinds of tables, turned a couple of Ultissamo stands, and have built a number other of small-to-medium props. I owned a brick-and-mortar magic shop in Northern California from 1978 to 1998, so I've seen a lot of stuff go by, both good and bad. Still, I consider myself a rank amateur and often have to modify my designs to fit my limited tools and abilities! I live near Mark Evans, a semi-retired pro illusionist and a fine craftsman in his own right. He has taught me a great deal and encouraged me. That's why I find your posts, as well as others, so fascinating. I get a lot of cool ideas about sources and materials. I learned a long time ago that everyone starts out lousy and only gets better by doing, so I take each project as a step towards getting more proficient.
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Excellent! Turning a hank pedestal is certainly not a task for a lightweight. It sounds like you have plenty of ability. If you ever have photos to share, we'll start a StevieDee project thread! Plenty of guys here have posted photos of their projects. The Workshop regulars are always appreciative and encouraging.
You are correct that you move forward with each new project. I think back on the early stuff I made for my own show and I just shake my head, but at the same time I remember how proud I was at the time. I was able to entertain a lot of people with junk that most magicians today would laugh at. In that way, I am much like the Tall Grass magicians, some of whom would fashion their props from salvaged junk. I could never afford to perform with the stuff that I make now! Ha!
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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StevieDee Regular user Salt Lake City area 154 Posts |
I've never tried this before, but here goes nothing. Here's the hank pedestal. I turned to top and bottom; the center column is actually a piece of an old towel rack.
Click here to view attached image. |
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StevieDee Regular user Salt Lake City area 154 Posts |
Here's an oak Moorehouse-style table I built a couple of years ago.
Click here to view attached image. |
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StevieDee Regular user Salt Lake City area 154 Posts |
Here is a project I did with Mark Evans for a friend who is doing a farm-themed magic and music show. It's a m----r b-x disguised as a chicken coop. A bottomless basket goes on top. The performer reaches through the basket to produce a number of balloon flowers. The chickens, of course, are not real, but add a great reason for the coop.
Click here to view attached image. |
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StevieDee Regular user Salt Lake City area 154 Posts |
And finally (for today at least) is a Genii Tube I made out of plywood and then veneered in cherry. It was a little trickier to make than it looked!
Click here to view attached image. |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
That's some nice work there, sir! All the pieces are really nice, but I am especially fascinated by the chicken coop.
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Wizard of Oz Inner circle Most people wish I didn't have 5150 Posts |
Beautiful work StevieDee...stylish and elegant. I can't wait to see more.
Now, if your posting in Michael's arena, can you cook too?
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
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StevieDee Regular user Salt Lake City area 154 Posts |
Actually, yes. I make a mean pork chops with mushroom gravy.
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
We need to get StevieDee his own thread, eh? His work is certainly good enough to enjoy its own spotlight.
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Wizard of Oz Inner circle Most people wish I didn't have 5150 Posts |
I'll visit it for sure!
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
Yeah, me too!
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts |
I don't actively book shows any more, but will occasionally take those that I want to. Case in point... The Peoria Zoo has an annual Hall-Zoo-Ween event. The opportunity to work the event came available, and being a guy who is all about Magic AND Halloween, I couldn't resist. Being that it also happens early in the month, I knew that it left Halloween open for whatever else I might want to do.
The shows started last night. I also couldn't resist doing this set up for my stage. All the junk out front came from Walgreen, but I thought it looked cool. I have shows there tonight and tomorrow, too.
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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