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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » The workshop » » How to join thin plywood ? (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

ringmaster
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Memphis, Down in Dixie
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How do you edge join ply i/4' or thiner ? Box joint, butt, miter, brads ?
One of the last living 10-in-one performers. I wanted to be in show business the worst way, and that was it.
Bill Hegbli
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Eternal Order
Fort Wayne, Indiana
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Finland plywood glues and brads just great on 1/4" boards. I made a whole roll-on table out of birch 1/4" finland plywood. It is not 20 years old and still holding. I just used butt joints. For thinner wood, you really need to have good square jig to hold it while the glue dries.
61magic
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Sacramento California
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When you say "edge join" are you meaning end to end as opposed to a right angle joint? In either case there is not enough material to make a strong joint without some kind of additional support. Even small brads and glue will not give much support, additional strips of wood, 1/4 round etc... would really be needed.
I've used thin aluminum angle at the corners with rivets.
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Michael Baker
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Near a river in the Midwest
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For 1/4" ply, I use rabbet joints for more gluing surface. I cut the dadoes on a router table. I use Titebond blue label wood glue plus 1/2" x #19 brads that I later sink and fill. The brads really only serve to hold parts together in lieu of clamps.

Miter joints for boxes make me crazy. Ok for frames and such, but I have no luck or fun using them for boxes.

For 1/8" ply, I still cut the rabbets, but will usually use thick CA with accelerator... no brads. It is very rare that I would make a box from 1/8" larger than 3" or 4".

I only use Butt joints if there is another plane of support, such as two adjacent walls and a bottom.
~michael baker
The Magic Company
Bill Hegbli
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Fort Wayne, Indiana
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Quote:
On 2011-09-14 15:08, 61magic wrote:
When you say "edge join" are you meaning end to end as opposed to a right angle joint? In either case there is not enough material to make a strong joint without some kind of additional support. Even small brads and glue will not give much support, additional strips of wood, 1/4 round etc... would really be needed.
I've used thin aluminum angle at the corners with rivets.


We do not know what the guy is making, so how do you know it needs any support at all?
---------------------------------------------------------------

I am sorry, but you guys are overkill. I have built a lot of right angle quarter inch wood joints and they all hold up like steel. I even sit on them and they don't come apart.

Any good wood glue works, I have used Elmer's, Franklin and Titebond. The joint all depends on what you are making and how much you will use it. When you get into dovetails and dado joints you are looking for a lot of trouble if you don't know how to make them correctly.

As for flat joints to extend a piece of wood, I have even cut a 45 degree angle and glued them together and they match up perfectly and hold. I always put in a dowel pin to secure the joint. When I need one more piece of wood, I am not buying a whole new sheet just for a few inches. Of course it will be covered or painted, and not stained or natural wood showing.

True it all depends on the stress you are putting on the wood. If you have the tools and skill, do what you feel good doing.
jay leslie
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Southern California
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Looks like Michael is reading the OP correctly. A joint that is stronger then the sheet can be created with the appropriate techniques.

I would either use a "rabbit joint" (like Michael) or run both edges along a 1/8 saw, and glue a spline between the two pieces. The blade would only need raised about an inch.

Better yet, for simple wood working questions, search http://www.woodweb.com/ which has a lot more info then we can write in a few paragraphs.
AGMagic
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Cailf.
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Any time you are gluing end grain, or the edge of plywood, the glue gets sucked up into the fibers away from the mating surfaces and will weaken the joint. Brush a light coat of glue on the end or edge that you are joining and let it set a minute or two then proceed with your regular glue-up. This will prevent the glue from wicking into the wood and will provide a much stronger joint.
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Bill Hegbli
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Fort Wayne, Indiana
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Quote:
On 2011-09-15 13:13, AGMagic wrote:
Any time you are gluing end grain, or the edge of plywood, the glue gets sucked up into the fibers away from the mating surfaces and will weaken the joint. Brush a light coat of glue on the end or edge that you are joining and let it set a minute or two then proceed with your regular glue-up. This will prevent the glue from wicking into the wood and will provide a much stronger joint.


Your advice may be correct for junk American 3 ply plywood or filler plywood. We or I am not speaking about lumber yard plywood. Finland Plywood is a multilayer plywood with no gaps or voids. The edge can be sanded and looks beautiful when stained.
Michael Baker
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Quote:
On 2011-09-15 13:29, wmhegbli wrote:
Quote:
On 2011-09-15 13:13, AGMagic wrote:
Any time you are gluing end grain, or the edge of plywood, the glue gets sucked up into the fibers away from the mating surfaces and will weaken the joint. Brush a light coat of glue on the end or edge that you are joining and let it set a minute or two then proceed with your regular glue-up. This will prevent the glue from wicking into the wood and will provide a much stronger joint.


Your advice may be correct for junk American 3 ply plywood or filler plywood. We or I am not speaking about lumber yard plywood. Finland Plywood is a multilayer plywood with no gaps or voids. The edge can be sanded and looks beautiful when stained.


Let me bring the two of you together over a cup of coffee. Smile

My solution to joints with one edge against one face is to make sure glue is applied to both surfaces. Run the bead down the edge first. Tap it with your finger to flatten and spread the bead. Then apply a THIN bead down the face piece... not too much because much will squeeze out and there is no sense wasting glue. By the time you get back to actually marrying the pieces, all should do very nicely. This is true regardless of what type wood you are using. Be your own judge, the more open the grain, and the thinner the glue, the more likely it will "wick". A second application of glue on the edge grain is sometimes needed.

The real key(s) to making a strong joint is to 1) understand what torque stress, if any may be applied to the joint, and take the necessary steps to support that joint... whether glue alone, brads, screws, or steel girders... 2) use quality materials.

BTW - paper towels are a best friend for wiping up the excess. Dampened paper towels are a must if this is wood intended to be stained. ANY excess glue on the surface will block the stain from penetrating and glue areas will show up as a blotch.

For inside corners on right angle joints, plastic drinking straws are great. They can be pressed into the corner as they are run down the joint. They act like a scoop, and the excess glue gets scooped inside the straw instead of being spread over the surface of the wood.
~michael baker
The Magic Company
Craig Dickens
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Straws to clean up the excess glue on inside corners!! Worth the price of admission right there. Thanks Michael. I love learning tips like that!
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AGMagic
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Cailf.
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Thanks Michael. Good coffee, great advice.

Wmhegbli, You are correct. Finland Birch ply certainly does reduce the need for priming the joint with glue. The additional layers or plys give additional side grain which helps hold the joint together. The quality of the Birch and its tight grain also help to reduce wicking. That said, I use a LOT of Finland Birch in my projects and ALWAYS pre glue the edges. Why? Because you never know when a joint will fail until it does. This pre-glue step only takes a few additional seconds and I want to do all I can to prevent joint failure.

The OP asked how do you join thin plywood? That's how I do it and why.
Tim Silver - http://www.facebook.com/pages/Magic-Woodshop/122578214436546

I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.

Visualize Whirled Peas!
hugmagic
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That did it....I'm definitely sticking to my sheet metal, silk and feathers. Woodworking is just too much work..especially with the garbage they call word today.

Richard
Richard E. Hughes, Hughes Magic Inc., 352 N. Prospect St., Ravenna, OH 44266 (330)296-4023
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Michael Baker
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Near a river in the Midwest
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Quote:
On 2011-09-15 21:22, hugmagic wrote:
That did it....I'm definitely sticking to my sheet metal, silk and feathers. Woodworking is just too much work..especially with the garbage they call word today.

Richard


It's just trees, Richard! You have to know where to look! Smile

~michael
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EsnRedshirt
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Newark, CA
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No one uses dovetail joints anymore? Yes, I know, a lot of effort (buy a jig), but one of the strongest joints around.
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