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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » Finger/stage manipulation » » Cards... (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

JamesRaymond
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Elkhart, IN (USA)
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I was just wondering does anyone "condition" their cards like Jeff McBride explains in his video or do you just use "Manipulation" cards?

I do both. But I find that even though I do flash more with the red Bee cards, they feel better then the "Bridge" size manipulation cards.
What are your thoughts on this?
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WalkerMagic
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Quote:
On 2012-02-11 21:04, JamesRaymond wrote:
I was just wondering does anyone "condition" their cards like Jeff McBride explains in his video or do you just use "Manipulation" cards?

I do both. But I find that even though I do flash more with the red Bee cards, they feel better then the "Bridge" size manipulation cards.
What are your thoughts on this?

I don't think that it is necessary to condition Bee playing cards. I am planning to purchase some manipulation cards to see what I think.
Darkwing
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Nashville Tn
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I as well use both and I also condition my Bee brand cards because they do need to be broken in.

I do use the Bee brands for producing and doing split fans because I am pretty rough on the cards. I also use Bees for snap productions because they seem to work well for the "snap" I'm looking for. For finer productions like Cardini single card productions and the perfect production, I generally use Norm Nielson's manipulation cards for these type of productions. I've come to what I use for manipulation cards with years of trial and error. Since everyone's hands are different, what may work for me may not work for you. I encourage anyone to try many types of cards just to see what works for you. I personally don't like the very thin and plastic manipulation cards because like I said I am pretty rough on the cards and they just don't hold up with use for me. However I know other guys that love these decks and use them very well.

Since I collect manipulation and fanning cards, I have no problem buying new types of decks.
Bill Hegbli
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Eternal Order
Fort Wayne, Indiana
22797 Posts

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All playing cards need breaking in to work well. Trying to use a deck of cards out the box is just putting undo stress on yourself and your hands. This helps you learn the characteristics of the playing cards.
iwillfoolu
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Upstate NY, USA
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Certain sleights and moves I think are easier performed with cards that haven't been broken in (perfect, Tenkai), however others are MUCH easier with conditioned cards (specifically b@ckp@lming and split fans).

Joe
Magician and Balloon Twister
New York Magicians
Magician New York
Anatole
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1912 Posts

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James Raymond wrote:"I find that even though I do flash more with the red Bee cards, they feel better then the "Bridge" size manipulation cards."

I would think that a card manipulator would choose whatever is best to minimize flashing, although a lot depends on the venue and how close the audience is to you. Interestingly, in _Card Magic by Manipulation_, Ganson uses poker-sized cards (what he calls "full-size cards") with a white border, even when producing cards from his bare hands. I think that as long as you follow the suggestions Ganson gives of keeping the hand in motion and using the thumb to hide the top corner of the stock, you should be fine. See the last photo Section (D) HIDING THE CORNERS OF THE CARDS.

Before all the special-made manipulation cards (Nielsen, Duffy, etc) came on the market, I used to use the method Ganson describes for stripping the backs off cards to make them thinner. Then I would take one card and glue a flesh colored piece of paper to the back of that card. I would place that one flesh-color-backed card at the back of a stock of 20 cards for my backpalming routine. This was my variation of a tip Marlo gives in _Card Fan Productions_ where he suggests I think painting the corners of the back card of a stock with flesh-colored paint. (Alternatively I would sometimes use a stock of cards with backs stripped off with a single "unstripped" card as the last card in the stock. That unstripped card gave the stock extra body which made holding them in position easier and more secure.

----- Amado "Sonny" Narvaez
----- Sonny Narvaez
JamesRaymond
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Elkhart, IN (USA)
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Quote:
On 2012-02-13 22:05, Anatole wrote:
James Raymond wrote:"I find that even though I do flash more with the red Bee cards, they feel better then the "Bridge" size manipulation cards."

I would think that a card manipulator would choose whatever is best to minimize flashing, although a lot depends on the venue and how close the audience is to you. Interestingly, in _Card Magic by Manipulation_, Ganson uses poker-sized cards (what he calls "full-size cards") with a white border, even when producing cards from his bare hands. I think that as long as you follow the suggestions Ganson gives of keeping the hand in motion and using the thumb to hide the top corner of the stock, you should be fine. See the last photo Section (D) HIDING THE CORNERS OF THE CARDS.

Before all the special-made manipulation cards (Nielsen, Duffy, etc) came on the market, I used to use the method Ganson describes for stripping the backs off cards to make them thinner. Then I would take one card and glue a flesh colored piece of paper to the back of that card. I would place that one flesh-color-backed card at the back of a stock of 20 cards for my backpalming routine. This was my variation of a tip Marlo gives in _Card Fan Productions_ where he suggests I think painting the corners of the back card of a stock with flesh-colored paint. (Alternatively I would sometimes use a stock of cards with backs stripped off with a single "unstripped" card as the last card in the stock. That unstripped card gave the stock extra body which made holding them in position easier and more secure.

----- Amado "Sonny" Narvaez


I can and will use both. I guess I was more interested in what others use. I will need to learn how to phrase things in here, I guess.

Thanks for the advice but I'll stick to buying cards then making my own. Smile
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Larry Barnowsky
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Cooperstown, NY where bats are made from
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I've always used regular size Poker cards. The old Streamline Poker cards worked well for me. I use a minimal amount of fanning powder applying it to a card one at a time. Ganson recommended softening the cards by running them under a pencil under pressure. I tried that and found the cards didn't last as long. I've tried the bridge size manip cards of Neisen and Marvey and still prefer my old Poker size cards.
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