Me and my mom were building a table for me but its not as nice and shiny as the big stage magic. We used latex spray paint and pine for the wood. Do I need to use a different wood? Paint? Or do I need to spray something on the table. If so do I need????????...oh and I will not take buy Building Your Own Illusions, The Complete Video Course by Gerry Frenette as a answer!!!!!!!!!!!...

Why not start with "Begin To Build Your Own Illusions - Vol. 1" by Paul Osborne. Lots of great advice for a first time builder.

http://hamiltonholtinc.stores.yahoo.net/newillusions.html

John

This is a topic that has been discussed here many times, so perhaps you will eventually stumble upon those.

It might help to know a little about your construction methods. Are you using 1x pine boards (3/4" thick)?

A paint finish will be much easier and better if you start with a really good surface. Some wood is better for this than others. There are a number plywoods that have a fine sanded surface... Birch ply is one of them.

But to give you a direct answer, you must first seal the wood. Sanding sealer can be applied with a brush and sanded lightly between coats. My personal favorite brand is from Ace Hardware. It dries fairly quickly and coats well. There are water-based sealers, but I don't care for them as much as the oil-based. There is also a lacquer sanding sealer, but you really need to be outdoors to use it. It will also destroy foam brushes. pretty harsh stuff.

OK, let's assume that you've applied 2-3 good coats (sanding between coats), and have paid special attention to the end grains and edges, as these will soak up paint like a sponge.

Final sand to a 220 grit.

Now use a spray primer. Krylon or Rustoleum are both OK. Apply 2-3 light coats and then sand to 220 again to remove any roughness. Spray one final coat and once dry, run your hand across the surface to check for roughness. Sand lightly if needed.

Now you will apply the color coat. Use a good enamel spray, like Rustoleum. Avoid Krylon colors if you are new at this. They will present more problems than you'll want to deal with.

Apply a light mist over the entire project (or what parts you can reach without messing up any painted surfaces). This first light coat is known as a tack coat. It helps the remaining coats adhere well to the project.

Give this tack coat a half hour or so to dry, and then apply additional coats, overlapping the strokes as you go.

There are plenty of YouTube videos that will show you proper spraying techniques. Watch and learn from them.

You want to avoid spraying too heavy, as it will run and cause drips.

Pay attention to the recoat times that show on the can label. You need to apply all coats for Rustoleum within the first hour. This does not mean that you have to complete the project in this time though. It takes a good day to dry, but you'll need to wait at least 2 days before painting again, if you need to.

Be sure to let the piece dry where no dust or bugs, etc. are likely to land on the wet surface. Don't mess with it while it dries. Walk away from it and forget about it for a couple days.

Then, go back and see if further coats need to be applies.

If you notice areas where the paint is soaking in to the end grains, then you should patch these areas with a little spackle and lightly sand it. Then continue painting.

Follow these instructions, and you should have a nice, smooth, glossy finish on your next table!

You might try buying Building Your Own Illusions, The Complete Video Course by Gerry Frenette

This thread is pure gold

Like Mr Baker says "Seal the wood".
I refinished a Zig Zag (a while ago) and the new "State Compliant Paint", that was only sold to professionals. was so translucent it took 14 coats to adequately cover the wood - so I know your pain.

This may need two coats with drying and sanding between or it could take several. Preparation is everything. this holds true for metal too.
When you spray, your entire body moves, You don't just bend at the elbow. The spray must be the same distance from the material all the way around and top to bottom.

Wear a mask and have ventilation too

Try is the key word. Have you seen the price????...

This might seem like a stupid question, but what type of paint were you using? This is key in solving your issues. I know you said latex but was it flat, semi-gloss, gloss etc. Also what was the make? Some companies produce high quality paint, while others produce garbage paint. Also what were the temperature conditions, and how many coats did you use, and did you sand in between coats?


Also pine is not your best choice of wood. Very soft, and soaks up the paint, it is expensive and will require more coats of a gloss paint than a hardwood, to achieve your desired look. While it is light weighted that is its only advantage as it is not very durable and will easily dent and fracture. Pine is better used in antique looks or wood working that is to be stained rather than painted. Birch Ply as suggested above is my first choice when building durable props out of wood.

I know this may sound cliche, but the question isn't "what am I doing wrong", but it's more along the lines of "what am I NOT doing properly?". Some of the best educational experiences I've ever had has come through people that show you how NOT to do something. I feel that (in any field) there a very few "right" ways to do things, along with hundreds, maybe thousands of ways to do it wrong. Should I go through a list of what NOT to do to find out what you are missing? Figure out what is right, have someone who knows what they are doing lend their knowledge to you. As a trainer for apprentices I always make sure that they learn from my past mistakes. I can only do that for as long as they are available for learning. Once they decide to go on and do what they want to anyway, they will be forced to learn from their OWN mistakes (which I had already attempted to prevent).

Tried to help this kid, and I got an insulting PM back in regards to something entirely different. What a jerk. Imature and Rude! I know ill never offer any advice to him again. Good luck with your crappy pine table! Oh and save your PMs for someone who gives a.... Don't PM anymore! I will not read them!

Not good, for a new user

Not good for anyone.

I got that impression too. He's done this on a few other threads that he started. Look at my post above. EVERYTHING he needs to know to put a good finish on a piece of wood... almost in spite of the type of wood. Response?? Yeah right... his only reply to this thread was to argue with someone over the price of a video course.

Take note kid... Many of us here in the workshop have more experience doing this stuff than you'll gain in the next half century. Come here for good info... all we ask is for you to be polite and appreciative. You'll be surprised how much we can help. But, act rude and ignore what we say... you get nothing. YOUR shortcomings are not OUR problem. We sweep the floor of garbage around here.

Nice words Michael! He has now sent me a half a dozen Harrassing Pms in the last 10 min. Had to report him. I refuse to waste anymore of my valuable time on inconsiderate and rude people like this little brat.

Sad.

Hey speaking of tables, Michael you might appreciate this:
I just finished building my new Electronic Stealth table. Remote activate final productions under cups, silks, boxes etc. example at the end of a cups and balls routine 3 shot glasses instantly appear full of liquid under the empty cups. Or produce chicks or limes etc under the cups instantly, no sleight of hand.

http://m.facebook.com/?_rdr#!/photo.php?......33534123

P.

I have an account. It asks me to sign-in then it won't allow me to see the link because it doesn't like my password (which will log me onto the site through another window ?). I wish I could see it.

I had trouble accessing the page from the link. I sent a regular FB friend request, so maybe that will work.

Ok got the FR and happily accepted. But for you and Jay, I'll get a photo up here tomorrow. I'm finishing the demo video tomorrow, so hopefully I can send you a video link of it action also.

P.

Cool, thanks!

I've had several little one pm me in the past, all nasty with me, claiming they are this and that, ignore them is what I do. take it for what they are...little kids.

Peter,
That's a mobile phone facebook link.

See the m. at the beginning of the link people...delete it and you will be able view Peter's pic with his cups and table.

Thanks O.Sun! If I was him I would be kind to those offering advice and try and soak up all the info I could! It's sad that a youngster like that who is rude and disrespectful to those that try and help him exists out of the younger generation getting into our art. I'm just glad most kids are not rude like him. Either way, he is no longer welcome at the Café, so annoyance solved. Hopefully one day he understands that being rude and ignorant and harrasing to those trying to help you will not get you very far in life.

O.Sun, I didn't know about the m. Thanks for the tip. It's awesome to learn something new everyday!