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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » The workshop » » Spray painting props (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

JustinDavid
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Hey.. I've been redoing all of my props to fit a new color scheme of mine, and I've been using spray paint. When I make a mistake I always just spray over it.. but on this one cage top I just kept going over and over.. and now its caking, and it looks horrible, is there anything to take all of the paint off and start over again?.. I'm guessing paint thinner.. but anything else?

Also, are there any kind of spray paint sealers out there?.. I have clear acrylic, but I was just curious if there was something that dries naturally and is not sticky, or paint like.

Thanks a bunch,
Justin
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MAGICBYTIM
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Louisiana
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Is the prop wood? There is a paint stripper that will take paint off wood really easy. I am not sure what the name of it is but you can get it at your local hardware store. If you have trouble finding it pm me and I will go see what the name is off the can I have.

If it is not wood I would not use this.

Good luck.
Jeff Dial
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Kent, WA
532 Posts

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In the US there is a furniture stripper made by Jasco. The Epoxy Stripper works a bit better than the regular stripper. Follow directions and observe the safety precautions.

Paint thinner is really for paint that is still wet and does not work well as a stripper. (Some people use paint thinner/mineral spirits as a cleaner.)

If the paint is really dry and cured you might get away with sanding everything so it is flat and smooth. An electric pad sander would be helpful. Then prime and paint.

Regarding "rattle can" spray paint. I have used many brands and would highly recommend Kylon. It just seems to cover better. They also make a sandable sealer/primer that is just great. Build up the sealer, sand with fine sandpaper, and paint.

One other advantage with the primer is that the lighter colors (e.g. yellow) will sometimes take too many coats to cover what is underneath including the wood grain. The sealer takes care of this problem.

Make sure that whenever you are painting or finishing over old finish that the area is clean and free of contamination. In my business I have see Dining room tables that some refinisher has just put a clear coat of lacquer on top of the existing finish. It looks really nice until the check clearsn the bank and then a process of deterioration sets in. Save yourself some heartbreak later and put the time into the necessary prep work.

Good Luck.
"Think our brains must be too highly trained, Majikthise" HHGG
DrDale
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If its metal get a wire wheel and put it in your drill
JustinDavid
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Wow excellent advice.. thanks a million everyone.

Also for a sealer, are there any that you can spray over the paint after it is dry?.. because I have painted most already. Maybe something that hardens and makes a barrier.. kind of like what clear nail polish does to nails?
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Jeff Dial
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You want to be careful about mixing chemistries. The solvents in certain materials can soften, strip, or wrinkle existing finishes.

There are no finishes that are a perfect protection. Every thing you might have available will scratch and chip.

If you think about it you already have protected the wood/metal of the structure of the prop with the primer and paint. Unless you have an elaborate design it may be just as easy to give any damaged finish a light sanding and a fresh coat of paint.

It is too late for you now, but I know guys that have finished illusions with automotive paint. Many, many coats. It comes out looking glossy and smooth and handles some of the scratching issues a bit better than the enamals. The down side is you may have to invest in some professional equiptment (compressor, spray gun, hoses, etc.) that could end up costing more than you are willing to spend. You also have to have some experience with a spray gun to keep the finished product from looking rotten.
"Think our brains must be too highly trained, Majikthise" HHGG
JustinDavid
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Yeah that does make sense. I guess I'll just have toi be extra careful. It just seems to me that the paint is alot easier to chip, then it was with the original it came with. Ah well I'll just have to tell the birds not to the pick at it Smile

Thanks again guys. I'm really starting to branch out into building and painting my own props, so I'm sure you will be hearing alot more for me. Just a warning =P

Justin David
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kaytracy
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Inner circle
Central California
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Like Jeff says, you need to watch the paint formulae, with refinishing or re-painting, you may need to use a sealer first to avoid the finish problems, putting acrylic finish on oil based and vice versa cna give unpredictable results at times!

If I recall you need a varnish type finish over oil based paints -acting as a sealer, before using a plastic or synthetic paint.
I find here in the states, a fine clear finish with minimal nasty vapors is Varathane brand. (I do not own stock). It comes in spray and brush on, though the spray may have more volatiles due to aerosol nature.

Also, if the surface is smooth, or soiled, it may just need cleaning first to remove handling grease and grime. A strong cleaner will even leave a slight "tooth" or roughened surface for the paint to grab onto and stick better.
Kay and Tory
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Doolah
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Grand Rapids, MI
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David,
Try just sanding it down with a random orbital sander. Follow that with XIM spray or brush (it comes in clear or white.) It is the best bonder/sealer out there bar none. I would use it over top of a color coat too to hold it all together.
Suerte,
Doolah
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