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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » Shuffled not Stirred » » Marked cards and scalloped shorts.... (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

Herr Brian Tabor
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West Virginia
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First, thanks to all on here for answering my questions and being so helpful. I really do appreciate it.

1. I use both scalloped shorts and corner shorts in my deck, and have a good system to get within 7 cards of the desired one instantly. I'm working on an even better system but that's going to take some time. I can set up a mem deck in minutes now, except for the scalloped shorts. I was taught to make these with sandpaper, but it takes too long and eats the edges of the card, making it difficult to make them very precise. Is there an easier method than sandpaper? I've tried many different types of grits, but no luck.

2. I've been playing with making a marked deck, marked by the number of the card in the deck rather than the ID of the card. I've found a good way to do this, easy to spot, etc, but it takes me a good 45 minutes to mark one deck with an exacto knife. Is this a standard time? I go through decks fairly quickly, and it seems like a lot of work for marking cards I won't have long. Is having them marked really worth the trade off? Or would researching a few good peeks negate the need (mostly) for marking them?

3. What is the difference between an in faro and an out faro? I know that an in faro takes 52 faros to restore order, while an out takes 8, but what is the difference?
Bulla
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Honolulu, HI
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1. Use an exacto knife. It'll probably take you several tries before you get the hang of it.

2. It really depends on the effects that you do. There are a few marked decks on the market that aren't too expensive.

3. An in faro means that the top and bottom cards remain on the top and bottom on completion of the faro. An out faro means that the top card ends up second from the top and the bottom card ends up second from the bottom.
Herr Brian Tabor
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West Virginia
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Quote:
On 2013-08-04 05:54, Bulla wrote:
1. Use an exacto knife. It'll probably take you several tries before you get the hang of it.

2. It really depends on the effects that you do. There are a few marked decks on the market that aren't too expensive.

3. An in faro means that the top and bottom cards remain on the top and bottom on completion of the faro. An out faro means that the top card ends up second from the top and the bottom card ends up second from the bottom.


Bulla, thanks a million. I'll try an exacto knife, I'll use an old deck to practice. Not sure why I never thought of that! I figured as much for the marked deck, but oh well. And the faros make sense now, thanks!
Bulla
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Sorry I wrote that backwards. An out faro is where the top and bottom cards remain on the top and bottom. In faro is where they become second from top and bottom.
Harry Lorayne
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Bulla: Better think again!
[email]harrylorayne@earthlink.net[/email]

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Bulla
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Quote:
On 2013-08-04 08:32, Harry Lorayne wrote:
Bulla: Better think again!


Not sure what you mean by this. The correction I made is right.
Harry Lorayne
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No, no, please disregard. I didn't see your correction. Sorry.
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Herr Brian Tabor
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West Virginia
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Heh, it happens. Thanks!
BarryFernelius
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Inner circle
Still learning, even though I've made
2532 Posts

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For cutting scallop shorted cards, I use a tiny pair of extremely sharp scissors. (The small scissors found on a high quality Swiss army knife are ideal.) I then clean up any rough spots using an emery board.
"To achieve great things, two things are needed: a plan and not quite enough time."

-Leonard Bernstein
Micha-el
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Hi Brian,
I have had good success with an emory board for finger nails (Not sure what the grit number is but it is one of the rougher ones.). By turning the card back and forth while sanding it you can create the scallop without ruining the card. Dennis Loomis wrote about this in an MUM article a few years ago.
Regards,
Barry
aktino
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Most of my decks are marked and incorporate scallop shorts. It takes me approx 15 mins to mark a deck and scallop cut two Jokers:

I use my own system to mark Bicycle cards using a Sharpie (red or navy; not blue). The cards are marked with their Mnemonica stack number expressed in binary form. Sounds complicated but is actually very straightforward once you are used to it (you obviously need to know Mnemonica cold). The system is quick and easy to apply and possible to read even for someone whose eyesight is getting worse (I am no longer able to read the Boris Wild deck without glasses). I have not come across this system in the literature but I cannot but believe that others have used something similar in the past.

Scallop shorts are easy to cut with an Exacto knife and a glass template. I had a frame maker cut a circular hole with 22.5 cm radius in a pane of glass (approx 5 mm thick). The circumference of the this circle creates a arch when placed over the end of a poker size card. You obviously don't need the whole circle to cut a playing card so the pane of glass was cut into several smaller pieces, each of which could be used as a scallop template. To cut cards, I attach a card to the template with a piece of double sided tape. The transparency of the glass makes it easy to fine tune the positioning of the card on the glass. All that remains is to place the template with card attached on an appropriate surface (cutting mat or a piece of glass pane) and use the Exacto knife to cut the card.
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