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James Warren Loyal user 241 Posts |
I find that when doing Vernon's pull through shuffle, during the first part of the technique when you are angling the right hand packet through the left packet (prior to doing the strip out), the cards will occasionally bind and become difficult to push through, even with a relatively new deck. Anyone have any explanation and/or fixes? Feel free to PM me if the discussion is too explicit for this forum.
Thanks. James |
ruediger New user germany/black forest 53 Posts |
Don't know if you own Card College...?
Giobbi gives a good handling to avoid this problem. A ( very ) rough and short description... It's not necessary to shuffle the whole right packet ( which could also be slightly smaller then the left one ) into the left. Let the first few cards from the right packet fall down ( the rhythm is important in this action, no gap in time between right and left riffle shuffle action ), before you start shuffling both packets into each other. I shuffle about 10 or 12 cards ( maximum ) into the left packet. As written above, the rhythm is a key point to let the shuffle look deceptive!
regards
ruediger meier -- no sig at all |
Ray Tupper. Special user NG16. 749 Posts |
A Peter Duffie tip.
Don't do a good shuffle, make it clumpy.
What do we want?
A cure for tourettes! When do we want it? C*nt! |
NicholasD Inner circle 1458 Posts |
And, drop the cards lightly.
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Chamberlain Special user 629 Posts |
A few things I do - I find if I lightly riffle the deck or slightly dribble them before I do the push thru it creates a little extra air between the cards so they don't bind as much.
I shuffle about 1 third into 2 thirds and leave a thick bed of cards from the 2 thirds packet first, and let the cards softly riffle off my thumb (a tip from Martin Nash) Pushing the two packets through slightly slower also eases any binding |
James Warren Loyal user 241 Posts |
These are all great responses, thanks. Shuffling 1/3 into 2/3, letting bunch from one packet fall first, and riffling the cards lightly off the thumb, are all things I have tried previously -- but while doing really precise, almost perfect weaves, because I wanted it to look good. I guess what I need to do is all of the above, but while also making the shuffle sloppier, "clumpier," avoiding too perfect alternation of the cards. Appreciate the feedback guys.
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lcwright1964 Special user Toronto 569 Posts |
Remember that some resistance is desirable since it makes the shuffle look authentic. That, in my estimation, is the weakness of the Zarrow--having to fake the resistance. I still can't quite get it right. But the push-through IS a real shuffle right up until the end.
Les |
Logan Five Inner circle Northern California 1434 Posts |
Quote:
On Feb 27, 2014, Ray Tupper. wrote: I agree!
Self concept is destiny..
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critter Inner circle Spokane, WA 2653 Posts |
Definitely don't hold any tighter than absolutely necessary. Holding tight = friction. Friction = bad.
"The fool is one who doesn't know what you have just found out."
~Will Rogers |
NicholasD Inner circle 1458 Posts |
Quote:
On Mar 1, 2014, lcwright1964 wrote: I've seen the argument about resistance a number of times over the years. I disagree with the idea that false tabled riffle shuffles need to show some resistance in order to look genuine. A genuinely riffle shuffled deck should be able to be pushed together with no resistance. When performed correctly, a genuine shuffle, a push-through shuffle and a Zarrow shuffle should all look the same. The halves should be pushed together effortlessly in all three cases. With few exceptions, most of the false shuffles on Youtube and other sites aren't very convincing. |
Macphail Regular user 166 Posts |
Quote:
On Feb 27, 2014, ruediger wrote: This is how I do it. :bikes: |
lcwright1964 Special user Toronto 569 Posts |
I have been working on this since reading the thread a few weeks ago. I agree the strip-out can stick, so I have found the push through variant of Aronson's Strip Out (from Simply Simon) really good. In my implementation I make Packet C about half the deck, not a third, and Packet A the upper half of the other half, so about a quarter. I shuffle A into C, making sure that the first and last cards to fall are from Packet C. I do the push-through and since I let C cards fall first it is easy enough to separate by lifting the A/C packet from B packet and do the strip-out triple cut manoeuvre that Aronson describes. Since only a quarter deck is actually riffled into a half deck, the overall friction is lower and the strip-out is easier and smoother. I think the whole protocol, done smoothly and confidently on a soft enough surface--I can't table riffle worth a darn on a hard surface--is very deceptive and easily covered. That all said, if conditions are suitable (i.e., a table with suitable covering) I'd probably opt for a standard Zarrow. There's just less fiddling.
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Muddy Dench Regular user 107 Posts |
Read--very slowly, very carefully, multiple times--Erdnase's instructions.
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lcwright1964 Special user Toronto 569 Posts |
Quote:
On Apr 1, 2014, Muddy Dench wrote: True dat. The relevant section is in the second part of the book. Curiously, as his fifth method Erdnase describes what looks like a Charlier shuffle solely for the purpose of dismissing it. Interesting--the Charlier shuffle can be quite deceptive and still is used a lot today, but with a full deck stack I'd really opt for a blind riffle of some sort. |
helder Inner circle Portugal 1065 Posts |
Practice. Some of these problems happen to me but I keep practice it until one day as by magic it starts working. A light touch helps.
My version of Eddie fetcher "Be Honest What's it?" it's available at Penguin Magic
Check my Facebook group: Mentalism Secrets Email: heldermagico@gmail.com www.facebook.com/heldermagico |
Andrew Immerman Regular user California 108 Posts |
Great suggestions in this thread! As Jason England and others have described, push/pull-through shuffles are made easier and more natural by minimizing friction. Use of a clean(er) deck, minimizing/eliminating downward pressure at all times, riffling from the outer corners, coarser weaves, and large'ish top and bottom stocks works well for me. When using an older deck, bowing the pack before the pre-shuffle cut and bowing the packs before the strip also works well. In general, I try to avoid alternating between in-the-hands work and table work -- I think it confuses or otherwise distracts spectators. So, I (personally) wouldn't immediately precede a table shuffle with a dribble.
Andrew |
Vlad_77 Inner circle The Netherlands 5829 Posts |
It wouldn't hurt to add two more resources so here goes ...
The Aronson Strip Out Shuffle: it's a beautifully deceptive shuffle and you will find it in the book Simply Simon. The other is a bit harder to access but there is a shuffle in The Close Up Magic of Frank Garcia called The Artanis Shuffle. As far as the other suggestions go, I agree, and I especially like the Peter Duffie tip of "clumps" as you get "air" in the cards. I should add that the above shuffles are as good as the Vernon shuffle and either can be learned in very little time. Of the two, I favor the Aronson shuffle a little more because of the cutting sequence at the end. |
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