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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » The workshop » » ALL ABOUT TABLES AND STANDS (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

Raven13
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So, I want to make some new tables, or find something else that I could use. In the end I want to have 1 larger table and 3 side tables.

I make mine out of 1/2 in plywood cut to shape. Stray it with 3M Spray glue and stick the 3/4 in padding to it, then coat the top of the padding with more 3M spray glue, then lay the velvet on that, stretch it over the sides and pull it tight as I stable it down around the bottom underneath.

I use the table top and lay in on top sort of like a small folding table. (like a folding chair design, but with a folding table instead)


anyway. I want to figure out how to make it lighter. (smaller wood memans less durability.) So I don't know.

What would be really cool, and I would like to figure out where to get them, is a stand that works like a mic stand or a lighting stand, the metal ones where the feet collapse onto the pole... and then you can adjust the high to as high or low as you want and lock it in.. Then place a Plexiglas circle on top of that Then A simple close up pad cut to size, or a better thin close up pad that I can make to sit on the top of it.

I don't know where to find this stuff. haha

Please help, send links to sites, or pictures of things to consider using.. If anyone knows where I can find the Plexiglas tables that sit on what seams like a silver metal drum kit Symbol stand and the legs fold out, and the top screws onto it, that would be cool.. I haev seen people at conventions use them for displays.
AGMagic
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Google Musician's Friend. They have great prices on the stands you are looking for.
Tim Silver - http://www.facebook.com/pages/Magic-Woodshop/122578214436546

I know you believe you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.

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Bill Hegbli
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Also you might search this section, as tables have been discussed a lot. Plexiglas resources have been referenced as well.

Just so you know, you will most likely pay 3 times as much then if you buy the tables already built. Most of the people who market this stuff buy in quantity, and making one will not save you any money at all. I know I did the research on several different types. So unless you are going to buy by the gross, be prepared for sticker shock.

Finding flanges and fittings that are compatible is the hardest part of the process. Music stores and sheet music stands along with microphone and brass air compression fixtures and natural gas fixtures are your sources to start your search.
Vietnam Veteran 1967, Sgt. E-5

Graduate of Chavez College of Prestidigitation and Showmanship

"Magic With A Twist Of Comedy"
Raven13
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Thanks guys! Great info. I have had a hard time coming up with a table that is light for close up when making it out of wood. I always want to try and make it out of two pieces of really thin wood and then stick them together with some industrial size double sided foam tape. Maybe that will lighten it up a bit.

Then 2 taller skinny display tables would be nice.

I was also floating the idea around to just pad and cover a round plastic folding table. I believe I saw some on the internet that were just over waist high, the circle top of it was roughly 2-2.5 feet wide and it was really light weight and collapses. That might still be an option if the other things I mentioned are just too pricey.
Raven13
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Something like this would be perfect,
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessori......ic-stand

Then all I would need to figure out is:

1) what the name of the bracket is that I see on some tables, where it is under the table top, it is a square piece of metal that is about 2-4 inches wide, that is screwed(bolted) into the center of the table top on the bottom, and it has a hole in the middle that would allow you to screw (spin) it onto the stand. (If I had to guess, it would be the same bracket used for the bottom of a drummers stool that allows you to spin the padded seat of it onto the base of the stool.)

2) Some sort of nylon, plastic, other material, lightweight round table top about 2-3 feet wide, I could pad, cover, and attach the bracket to it.

Maybe if I buy a sheet of Plexiglas or similar material, I could have someone cut 3-4 circles out of it and be able to make a few tables, Mark and drill the holes for the bracket, drill them out, bolt it on using bolts that are flat (The have sort of a dome shaped head), then spray glue it, lay the padding down, trim the edges, spray the top of the foam again, lay the felt or velvet over it, wrap it around the edges, then.. I don't know how I would tack down the felt, I usually staple it, but I don't think you can staple into Plexiglas... However if I could do the same thing with some lightweight plastic material, I could staple into that. Hmmmmm

That would be it, super simple and effective.
MentalistCreationLab
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Raven, that music stand might be too flimsy once the top has been added. Look into drum stands for High hats snares etc... you will need to change the top bar out for some pipe of the same O.D. which you can have Chromed or polished to get the silver look or but one that's black so all you need to do is paint it (powder coat will last longer and scuff less) and a flange from the pluming department from your local hardware store.

Years ago I built a small portable stand this way.

Now a sheet of Plexiglas is not cheap and will scrath and scuff easily. While its easy to cut on our laser and CNC equipment I would say find a meterial that will last longer a meterial that you can repair on the road if needed with a little paint when needed. Nothing worse than a once clear table looking rough from scrathes on stage. The only way I seen these plexi tables work is when the plexi has a frosted finish but that stuff is even more money.

Stapling any plastic is a bad idea. You will need to add an insert into the plastic that you can staple into.

There is also a good chance that you will spend more money on this project than you can buy a couple of nice but used tables taht are well built. Building your own is good if it gets you what you want but do not settle for less jsut because you built it yourself without the right tools to get the job done right. Cutting corners naver pays off. Trust me when I tell you that if you use cheap meterials your just wasting you time. Also some parts are going to be hard to find or locate. That's just how it is and I spend hours finding the correct meterials and some of its not cheap. For example the brass special henges for the new box are going to cost me around 40 dollars each.In the end after its finished I have a small box that will last a very long time.
Bill Hegbli
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I suggest you buy this one made from a sheet music stand. Very sturdy and can hold up well, I have one and like it. At $80 it is well priced as the stand sells for over $50 on the Internet, that is without the conversion pieces and flange to attach a table top. Sorry it only comes in black. Search Lucite and Plexiglas, but as mentioned very hard to work with and maintain. One scratch and it is junk, and it is not light material.
Vietnam Veteran 1967, Sgt. E-5

Graduate of Chavez College of Prestidigitation and Showmanship

"Magic With A Twist Of Comedy"
Donald Dunphy
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I realize that you probably want to make your own side tables, but I thought I'd share these links with those who might be looking to buy them ready-made:

http://fairchildmagic.com/fairchild_magic_013.htm

http://fairchildmagic.com/fairchild_magic_007.htm

http://www.instand.com/cr3/cr3.shtml

https://squareup.com/market/showtime-mag......size-new

https://squareup.com/market/showtime-mag......ble-base

https://squareup.com/market/showtime-mag......tabletop

http://www.billabbottmagic.com/online-st......ued.html

Note to moderators - These are not affiliate links.

Other options that pop to mind are Barry Mitchell's Dang Table, and the Spider Table.

- Donald

P.S. There are many threads about tables in the "Where to put it all..." section of the Café.
Donald Dunphy is a Victoria Magician, British Columbia, Canada.
MentalistCreationLab
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Here are a couple of views of the table I mentioned earlier in this thread.

The base used was a Yamaha Tom drum stand(heavy Duty)that the top section was removed from.

Here is a photo of the stand which has a max height of 37.5” as built.


http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa120......0c0c.jpg

The only problem I see now with this table that I built many years ago is the size of the top in proportion to the base foot print. Notice how that the top is smaller than the base foot print of the stand. IMO The top should have been bigger than what it is but the table is very stable. The main problem is that with the top being the size it was made is that when on stage if you walk up to the table you must pay attention or you can kick or trip on the base because your looking at the top of the table and the top-base ratio becomes a bit decptive. Hope that's clear.

Now here is the money shot. How the flange and base parts are assembled.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa120......d6a0.jpg

First we have a .5” flange that's used in plumbing that is attached to the under side of the table then there is a threaded insert set in to that flange then the connector which is threaded rod set into the base tube of the stand and tightened down using the tightener for the base that was all ready there.

The top of the table was felted and fringe was applied using old furniture tacks. This gave the table a nice finished look.

But take a look at how the base is attached. This assembly of parts will fix the issue of the tube size not being the right size for plumbing parts which to a bit to figure out. One would think you can just go and buy a piece of threaded tube and a flange but what you will find out is that the correct size of parts do not exist.

Now a quick word about cost

the plumbing parts ran about

flange 6.61 at home depot currently
2.37 for a .5 inch set down to .250 (not sure if that is the exact one I used but it should be close to that size or it may have been three eights.)
thread road insert (piece shown in base) Could not find a price online but should be 2-3 dollars.

With felt, fringe trim (not cheap btw) and furniture tacks and used base I probably spent in the range of $50.00 or more building this table.

Note the plywood I had laying around and the old drum base I got free from the neighbors trash.

Which I think was a Heavy duty tom drum stand which will run anywhere from 50.00 to 139.00 used to new. The most top section was already busted when I got it.

So in the end. What it will come down to is how much of these parts you have lying around that you do not have to go out of pocket for. If you have to go out and buy all of this stuff its cheaper most of the time to just buy a table that is used and in good condition.

But I did not have easy shopping on the net when I built this table so I had to build my own. But now you know how the conversion process works and how to make a conversion for yourself. So you do not have to waste as much time as I did trying to figure out how to make this work.

Now I should point out I only use this table now to display certian props that are in my collection. Which this table will be going away soon once my new display wall cabnet is finished being built.

So I hope this helps as I think it will solve some of the attachment issues you may encounter when doing this type of project so you do not waste a bunch of time buying the wrong type of parts. Which I did several times before I got it to work.

Last thing when buying a stand buy the heavy duty type as they will last much longer and take the abuse dished out from the road.
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