So this should be fun. I went to Michael's today and bought a little wooden box and some green felt for a whopping buck thirty nine.

I already have some dark stain, rubber cement for the felt lining and some IT for placing a MC fold card in the box; so for the price this little project can't be beat. My plan is to run some IT under the felt, cement part of it down, attach it to a card and run the rest of the thread under the unglued portion of the felt and cement it in place. I'm thinking this should allow for some good side to side shaking of the card in the box before the"dump." The box I chose has a fairly loose lid to make the "work" easier.

This will be for my hospital walk around- the only magic I do anymore anyway. I'm just making one for fun, to add some mystery for the kids with the box and to get away from doing card to wallet all the time. Just something different, you know?

If it works out well I'll post pictures and probably make a second one for blue cards.

So after 2 coats of Minwax espresso #273 it's looking pretty sharp! I'm debating whether or not to clear coat seal it. The can of Minwax says it penetrates, stains and seals.

Any comments that could help me here Michael Baker? I'm kind of lost when it comes to this stuff.

I'm going to let it sit until tomorrow and then put the felt in. Or clear coat it if you guys think it might be necessary.

Theodore,

If you are new to finishing wood or just want a fool proof method for a finish try Minwax antique oil. Tabby Crab "turned me on to this stuff several years ago. I use it on everything I sell. Gives a great low luster finish that looks and feels like an old antique. You just brush it on and wait ten min and polish it off with 0000 steel wool. Do 3 coats one day apart for pro results. I swear you cant mess this stuff up.

Good luck,

Gimpy

Gimpy's advice is as good as it gets. "Pro results" is often determined by just taking the time to go a few steps further.

The Minwax stain is not a finish coat, although if you really like the look, you can stop there. It will be a rather dull finish though, which to me looks "unfinished".

Here is an example... the Albenice Card Rise houlettes that I'm making for Stevens Magic have the same brand of stain, only with Red Mahogany. I top coat with a few coats of Tung Oil/Poly blend (my own concoction). The Gimpy/Tabby recommendation is just as good. You will see immediately how the colors in the wood just "pop".

After applying the stain and the first coat or two of the oil, you should be able to feel how it has slightly raised the fibers in the wood. I knock this down with very fine grit wet/dry sandpaper (600 grit or higher). I will sometimes use steel wool to accomplish the same thing on other projects, but I have reasons for not using that on these houlettes.

Anyway, a final coal of oil, after the sanding generally gives a finish that just plain feels nice to the touch. View it with your eyes open, but lightly run your fingertips across the surface with your eyes closed. You'll know when it's right.

Please remember, when you've used a lint free cloth to apply the oil, take the cloth and set fire to it somewhere safe. Don't throw it In the bin. Several types of oil, when seeped into a cloth, can spontaneously combust when discarded into an enclosed space. I don't want anyone here to have a molten dust bin.
Ray.

Thanks for the advice! I'll look into the antique oil.

I might want to stress how important it is to wait a full day between coats. Even though it feels dry after 8 hours, its not fully cured. If you get into a rush you will just be removing some of the previos coat. Got to have dry time to build the layers. Also found that more than 3 coats dose very little.

^ What he said. Dry time and cure time are different.

I see there is a big difference in price between the Minwax 47000 and the 67000. One is about 8 bucks and the other is 20-25. Please tell me the cheap one, the 47000, works just fine.

Will I find 0000 steel wool at the hardware store?

Yes, I'm new to this. The box looks great btw. I think finishing the outside will really make it pop.

Possibly not, but Woodcraft has this amazing Briwax product. It leaves a wonderful finish.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/844337/......ool.aspx

Theodore,

The 67000 is a number on the can for size on the bar code for 32 oz. that's what I buy a case of at a time but a small can will do several projects. Its all the same stuff. You should be able to find a small 16 oz. can at many hardware stores for about $7.

Gimpy

Yes 0000 steel wool can be bought every where. get some rubber gloves too, this stuff is sticky like honey. no smell is a plus too.

Great, thanks!

I am recovering from knee surgery and couldn't get to the hardware store this weekend to get the oil.

I thought I'd share a little more detail about the card though. I've got a little sandwich going on in the bottom of the box. I thought the IT might need something more firm under the felt to help keep it in place and prevent it from pulling the felt up when moving the card around so I trimmed a playing card to the size of the felt and cemented the card shim and felt together.

I then folded my MC fold card, unfolded it and cut a slit in the crease to run the IT through with plenty coming out either end to run under the felt. I refolded and cemented the card and the IT shut and used scotch tape to position the ends of the IT under the felt and onto the shim. The tape enabled me to play around with how much movement the card could have before cementing it into place. After the IT was taped in place I put a coat of cement in the bottom of the box, placed the IT card and felt combo in the bottom and let it dry. It works perfectly. I can get some really nice, brief movement out of the card before tipping the box and having the lid close. Just enough movement to be suggestive. I was aiming for Tommy's psychological way of doing this and am really happy with how it came out.

Thanks so much for your help, I can't wait to share some pics with you after it's oiled.

Theodore-