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ClintonMagus Inner circle Southwestern Southeast 3997 Posts |
AUto Zone sells some stuff that is designed for removing the milky finish from plastic headlight lenses. I have never used it, but a friend did, and he says it works beautifully.
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
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pomacanthus New user 8 Posts |
Ok folks this is my idustry, I design and build and RESTORE custom plexiglass aquariums. Any scratch can be removed provided you have the right gear. Light scratches are EZ start w/ Novus 3 and LOTS of elbow grease, then Novus 2 to finish.
Deeper scraches in acrylic are the same as sanding wood but with finer grits. I use a product by 3M called micromesh grits are 2400,3000,3600 and 4000. need to work thru the grits in order expanding your sanding area with each grit. you can remove final haze w Novus but a buffer works better. I also 3-6 various auto finishing compounds with the buffer. Trick is to generate as little heat as possible and keep moving. There are too many other products to mention (3m Trizact) if you access to orbital sanders but they get complicated - hook and loop etc etc. In most cases with deep scratches its sometimes cheaper and easier to just buy a new piece of material - its a very laborious process and a significant amount of tooling is needed to do it properly. you can buy micromesh sandpaper from 3M or just google it. Final note there is an aquarium scratch removal kit made by Rainbow lifeguard or Pentair just google it, good basic kit. Whatever you do SO NOT ATTEMPT this with "regular" sandpaper or you ruin the piece guaranteed. |
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Thomas Wayne Inner circle Alaska 1977 Posts |
Quote:
On 2008-01-13 22:15, pomacanthus wrote: I have worked a great deal with many different plastics, including both cast and extruded acrylic, and the above advice is as good as anything I have ever seen. I ONLY use automotive finishing products when polishing acrylic, and though they are more expensive than the home/hobby stuff the cost is worth it. TW
MOST magicians: "Here's a quarter, it's gone, you're an idiot, it's back, you're a jerk, show's over." Jerry Seinfeld
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Steve_Mollett Inner circle Eh, so I've made 3006 Posts |
600-grit sandpaper with plenty of water until plastic looks 'foggy,' followed by Blue Magic metal polish.
Author of: GARROTE ESCAPES
The absurd is the essential concept and the first truth. - Albert Camus |
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Regan Inner circle U.S.A. 5726 Posts |
I used Maguier's Scrath X on some plastic automobile parts and it worked great. It was semi-transparent-like plastic, and it removed most of the scratches and shined it up.
I refinish guitars, and I use 3M Finesse It II for final polishing. Talk about shine! Of course I start with #400 grit wetsanding, then move up to #600, #800, #1000, #1200, #1500, and #2000. Only then does it get the Finesse it II. Some even use rubbing and buffing compound between the final sanding stage and the Finesse It II, but I find that if sanded properly you can go from #2000 straight to Finesse It II. I have not tried it on plastic, so here is a discleimer: I don't know if it works or if it will damage plastic. I am not recommending to sand plastic either! All I know is that Finesse It II works fabtastic on nitrocellulose lacquer! Regan
Mister Mystery
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