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Rob Johnston
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Well, I have been trying to Fuse the coins together. I don't have a soldering kit, so I decided to take some of the guys' advice here at the Café and use JB Weld.

This stuff is great but it doesn't seem to hold the coins together too well. They come apart with little force, and if the coins are dropped, they are as good as seperated.

Any other suggestions? Or will I have to buckle down and actually solder them?
"Genius is another word for magic, and the whole point of magic is that it is inexplicable." - Margot Fonteyn
Dave Dorsett
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I hate to say this, but...
Soldering is going to be the only sure-fire solution. Even then you will need to do a little surface prep to rough up the area to be soldered so you have proper adhesion. Solder doesn't stick too well to the highly polished surface of a coin as I found out when working on a Wakeling idea Jim Steinmeyer published in MAGIC. I did have fair short term results using standard DevCon 5 minute epoxy. I wouldn't rely on that in the long run, though.
Once you have a good soldering set-up (which doesn't have to cost too much) you'll find it to be an extremely handy tool. Small metal objects will never be safe again!
Dave Dorsett
Douglas~Wayne Illusioneering
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Profile of kregg
When using epoxy, make sure that it's an adhesive type. Also, some types have a curing time on top of the bonding time.
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Profile of Magic.J.Manuel
Use expoy, make sure the surface that is glued is not shiny. Use a wire brush on a drill to make sure that some of each coin's surface is scored, also they must be super clean so use some mineral spirits or acetone to get everything off the coins.

Solder is not meant to be a physical adhesive, when one fits plumbing pipes, they have to wire brush the pipe and add resin to get it to flow for a good seal, not to hold the pipes together. Solder is also known to crack or fail if not done properly.

Welding is a way, but it just about destroys the detail on the finish and the clump will need to be re-plated.
Nothing would get done at all, if man waited so long that no one could find fault with it.
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Profile of thegospelmagicman
How about SUPER GLUE? I have used this to bond some materials together. I have never tried it on coins though. One thing I know that will work for sure is clear silicone caulking - the kind you use around a tub or sink. You can pick up a tube of caulking at any home store i.e. Home Depot, Lowes, Busy Beaver, etc. Make sure you use clear and 100% Silicone. Use a small amount and allow the caulk to dry for about 24 hours and it will hold. Smash them together and hod them with tape if you like. Any residue can be trimmed with a razor blade. The only way to get it apart is to cut it apart with a razor blade.

Hope this is of some help.

The Gospel Magic Man
Leland Stone
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Hiya, Astinus:

John's suggestion about SuperGlue (cyanoacrylate) ought to do just fine, but you'll need to do some prep work.

Mating surfaces should fit nicely-no bump or ridges, so you'll have file or sand smooth areas on the coins where they need to join. Rub the 'tails' side of the coins on progressively finer sand paper (or use a belt sander and a clamp to hold the coins).

Silver-soldering is the most permanent solution, though you'll need to make smooth surfaces even if you solder. Both SuperGlue and solder are adhesives and neither can strongly fill any gaps. A soldering set at Home Depot will run about $20.

Good luck!
Leland Stone
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Profile of paulajayne
Soldering is dependant upon the oxidised surface being removed prior.

Use steel wool and immediatly apply fluxite.

Also use the steel wool to clean the solder prior to use.

Grade A solder is best for coins 60/40 lead to tin.

A soldering iron is not normally powerfull enough so use a blow lamp - if a copper based coin is heated and gives a greenish flame it is too hot.

Best way is to "Tin" each coin first and then fit them in place.


Paula Jay - Magic to Remember -
I once wrote a book on elephants, I think paper would have been better.
Werner G. Seitz
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TBH I don't think soldering is needed..

In a lot of cases, also because a lot of heat has to be applyed because of the amount of material a coin is representing, the coins colour might change a bit due to the heat applyed.

I'm pretty sure superglue/cyanoacrylate-glue that one also can find in a more compound form, eg. NOT the normally used one that is thin like liquid, but rather like *honning* in consistence does a good and lasting job.
Also normal epoxyglue (Araldit) can be used, it comes in various grades of how long it takes to bind..there is a 5-minute type and there is the one needing sevaral hours to even over night..

So, TBH (I'm used to soldering) I wouldn't even try it on coins, but go for glue instead..

Glue today is extremely and extensively binding..

Otherwise, the tip from Paula is a good and correct one..first to apply tin to both coins, and therafter appying heat to them after they are assembled/placed in the position one wants to have them later..

There is even tin available coming in thin sheets, containing that harpix-stuff(flux) that is needed for chemical cleaning to get a good solderjoint.

In that case, one simply has to clean the coins, put the sheet between and apply heat..

Just some thoughts on that issue.. Smile
Learn a few things well.....this life is not long enough to do everything.....

( Words of wisdom from Albert Goshman paid off for him - it might
as well for YOU!!!- My own magic is styled after that motto... Smile )
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Profile of ventman
I have been through this myself. Epoxy and super glue just aren't strong and durable enough particularly if you are trying to glue the edges of coins together. Are you trying to do this? If so, PM me and I'll tell you how to do this and make a sure fire, tough bond!
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